diyAudio Power Supply Circuit Board v3 illustrated build guide

It is always much more fun to find out how it works instead of just trying to put something together "blind" from a schematic (it also reduces errors). A NTC resistors is the most precise term as a Thermistor also can be a PCT (a resistor with positive temp. coefficient). You don't want one of these as inrush limiter for the power transformator.....

You are right of course, but you know for a guy like me it isn't that fun because of the many acronyms in electronic. First I have to find out what is hidden behind the letters, then I have to translate in my own language, then figure out what it means in electronic terms considering my very poor knowledge.
That's a three steps challenge for each one.
When you read 1600 abstruse posts in a forum and need to get back to many, the fun is somewhat tideous you know :rolleyes:
 
Hi, after weeks of time spent in waiting for parts and building, this is my implementation of this PSU board. It's without the rectifier part, to which I preferred a monolithic one.
Now, all I wish to know is your opinion about any possible concern or doubt about safety and if there are some adviceable or mandatory changes I can do.
Thanks in advance,
Gaetano. IMG_20190702_080226.jpg IMG_20190702_075104.jpg IMG_20190702_075029.jpg
 
Been working on putting together a F5 turbo and I assembled a parts list based on what's in this thread and various bits of documentation.

I had a really hard time finding components to hit or exceed 80000uf per rail that fit within the packaging of the universal power supply board. I'm planning on using EKMH630VSN183MA80T (18000uf, 63v) as it seemed like I'd be OK with that much capacitance. For the transformer I was planning on using VPM48-20830.

I left off all the input and output snubber related parts since I am building a class A amp which gives me this full parts list:

Qty Part #
8 FEP30DP-E3/45
8 513201B02500G
2 TLHR6400
14 ERX-3FJR47
2 ERG-3SJ223
2 FRN25J10R
8 EKMH630VSN183MA80T
4 39890-0303
4 62409-1
1 VPM48-20830


I know I'm missing some parts for inrush protection and ground loop breaking but I am still finalizing my plan on those pieces. I would very much appreciate a second pair of eyes to make sure I didn't miss something.
 
Been working on putting together a F5 turbo and I assembled a parts list based on what's in this thread and various bits of documentation.

I had a really hard time finding components to hit or exceed 80000uf per rail that fit within the packaging of the universal power supply board. I'm planning on using EKMH630VSN183MA80T (18000uf, 63v) as it seemed like I'd be OK with that much capacitance. For the transformer I was planning on using VPM48-20830.

I left off all the input and output snubber related parts since I am building a class A amp which gives me this full parts list:

Qty Part #
8 FEP30DP-E3/45
8 513201B02500G
2 TLHR6400
14 ERX-3FJR47
2 ERG-3SJ223
2 FRN25J10R
8 EKMH630VSN183MA80T
4 39890-0303
4 62409-1
1 VPM48-20830


I know I'm missing some parts for inrush protection and ground loop breaking but I am still finalizing my plan on those pieces. I would very much appreciate a second pair of eyes to make sure I didn't miss something.


I just gave DigiKey a look and I found some capacitors I think would work. They are Nichicon LGY series and all are rated for 5000 hrs at 105c.

10000uf, 63V
12000uf, 50v
15000uf, 50v


I know from reading I need 80000uf or more for the power supply to power the F-5T. In what scenario should I be going for more?
 
Hello. My LED3 is not glowing and I read -25V at R21. Does this mean I’ve installed the LED backwards? LED2 is all good by the way (glowing and 2.5V at R20).

Speaking of LEDs the first page says the anode and cathode are depicted by a semi circle however both LED 2 and 3 are semi circles. Can someone help me with the orientation of this? Does cathode point to r10 and r9?

Thanks in advance.
 
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Speaking of LEDs the first page says the anode and cathode are depicted by a semi circle however both LED 2 and 3 are semi circles. Can someone help me with the orientation of this? Does cathode point to r10 and r9?

Thanks in advance.

This should help.

https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/ima...mentation/P-PSU-1V30/P-PSU-1V30-schematic.pdf

Try using the traces from LED2 and LED3 to R20 and R21 respectively as the reference points on the board. I found that easier for me to figure it out when I had the same question.



If that's frustrating... then no. The cathode of LED2 points to R9 (away from R20) The cathode of LED3 points to R21 (away from R10)

It takes a while, but I highly recommend reading the threads related to your build all the way through and keeping a printout of the schematic handy.
 
Help with selecting a transformer

With a couple of ACA’s under my belt, I’m moving on to my next project – an F5 (not the Turbo), built on diyAudio F5v3 boards. I’ve got all the parts for the amp and I’m gathering the parts for the PSU now.

I have the Universal Power Supply v3.0 boards on the way, so that’s a solid start. 😊 I understand most of the PSU components pretty well. The only place where I’m encountering some difficulty is in choosing a transformer.

The original F5 documentation that I read calls for the AnTek AS-4218 - 400VA 18V. I see most people using transformers rated much higher than this one, but I think they’re also mostly building F5 Turbo’s, and need more power. I could probably just order this one and be happy with it, but I’d like to understand a few things about it first.

  • The primary side is rated for 115v. I see others rated for 120v. Is that not important? I suspect it’s just within a tollerance that’s acceptible. I’m in the US, so it is the right ball park.
  • The secondary side is rated for +/- 18v. I think that means +18 and -18, for a total of 36v peak to peak. The F5 calls for +/-24v supply. Isn’t that +24v on one rail and -24v on the other, which is also 48v peak to peak? I don’t understand how the mentioned power supply supports the requirement. Is the prototype running on this transformer an old spec or am I missing something?
  • Is there an advantage or disadvantage to a center tapped transformer? Is there a meaningful difference in heat loss with half the diodes? I haven’t checked on the cost difference in the transformers yet. That might be the deciding factor.
  • I don’t understand the 400VA output rating. How does that relate to the 25 watts * 2 channels of output I’m expecting from the amp?

Thanks in arears for all the help I’ve already gotten by reading the forums, and thanks in advance for any help I can get with these questions.
 
I separated the boards due to the space in the case - I am using the boards to make a dual mono amp with separate PSUs. The rectifier boards and capacitor banks will be connected via fast on connections and wires. I plan on running them as 2 separate power supplies rather then one with 4 10,000uf 80v Nichicon Hi-Sounds on each capacitor bank. I have 2 main questions:
1) has anyone used the rectifier boards on their own without snubbing them? I have a Holton power supply and he uses 4 diodes to make the rectifier and he does not snub the rectifier. I am going to be using these boards to power some Holtons (as well as some other Lateral Mosfet amps) and want to try and have everything sound as close as possible to the full Holton amps I have. The other LFET amps I plan on running with this PSU is PeeCeeBeee which will most likely be biased into an A. Is it best to snub the rectifier with class A amps? when and why is the best time to snub? I believe even Holton’s class As don’t snub the power supply and only use simple Pi filtering in the Cap bank at least for the NXV line. Any knowledge on snubbing would be great. FWIW I am using RURG3060 diodes for the rectifier. If I want to skip the snub for whatever reason I would just use a connector to jump the caps and resistors on the diode/rectifier board?

2) since I want to change each Cap board to an individual power supply - I was thinking of flipping around the caps so that v+ will be on one side and v- on the other while adding a ground or 0 somehow. Or worst case using both Cap banks for v-0-v using just one rectifier. Ideally I rather have them all separate - can anyone tell me about the pros/cons of this scheme?