loninappleton said:
Yes, we just scabbed on a couple extra pieces on the side to give them the same aspect as the Fostex FE126 design... if you were building from scratch you would just make the sides extend down.
That is the other way to do it... as a stand-mounter... like Scot's attached.
dave
Attachments
Thanks for clarifying. This reference project seems to
have morphed into a number of designs all with the same
FE127 driver.
That being the case, and since GM has already given a
MLTL design for this (which I built) are there any tweaks
based on theory to go in that direction? Any design
suggestions to improve on that? I'm curious about
triangular shapes and long port tubes as in some of the
builds of the Jordan 92s.
have morphed into a number of designs all with the same
FE127 driver.
That being the case, and since GM has already given a
MLTL design for this (which I built) are there any tweaks
based on theory to go in that direction? Any design
suggestions to improve on that? I'm curious about
triangular shapes and long port tubes as in some of the
builds of the Jordan 92s.
Terry Terry Terry.........
You make me laugh everytime you write.
When I was dry fitting those cabinets I was having a heck of a time holding the corners together. I was intending to glue and clamp the box up in a single process so I decided to put a spline in the corners. Since I could not make it disapear I decided to make it into a bit of an accent. I have a pretty good collection of Western Yew wood so it makes a logical choice.
I hope you can make up to Al's for the get together, I am sure between you me and Cal we can cause a great deal of havoc and poke fun at most everybody in our extended audio family.
I hope Jason has enough business cards, so you can get one too
Thanks for the comments
You make me laugh everytime you write.
When I was dry fitting those cabinets I was having a heck of a time holding the corners together. I was intending to glue and clamp the box up in a single process so I decided to put a spline in the corners. Since I could not make it disapear I decided to make it into a bit of an accent. I have a pretty good collection of Western Yew wood so it makes a logical choice.
I hope you can make up to Al's for the get together, I am sure between you me and Cal we can cause a great deal of havoc and poke fun at most everybody in our extended audio family.
I hope Jason has enough business cards, so you can get one too
Thanks for the comments
>>> I hope you can make up to Al's for the get together, I am sure between you me and Cal we can cause a great deal of havoc and poke fun at most everybody in our extended audio family.
I'd like to come too... but i am in ny.
The only time i feel a sub is needed with my 127e is when i turn it on.
http://www.zillaspeak.com/fostex127eStraightPipe.asp
Otherwise the bass is bouncy good fun (within reason of course). Problem with this driver (and it's a really good driver) is that it sometimes sounds hyper... and too forward. Other times it sounds really great. It's detailed and a very good compromise as a full ranger goes.
Soon i plan to build something similar to the monopole designs... same volume but with a shape more similar to that wide and flat omega i've seen. It looks so elegant and would fit nicely in my living room.
I'm curious to see how the ported design compares to the pipe.
Peace,
Godzilla
I'd like to come too... but i am in ny.
The only time i feel a sub is needed with my 127e is when i turn it on.
http://www.zillaspeak.com/fostex127eStraightPipe.asp
Otherwise the bass is bouncy good fun (within reason of course). Problem with this driver (and it's a really good driver) is that it sometimes sounds hyper... and too forward. Other times it sounds really great. It's detailed and a very good compromise as a full ranger goes.
Soon i plan to build something similar to the monopole designs... same volume but with a shape more similar to that wide and flat omega i've seen. It looks so elegant and would fit nicely in my living room.
I'm curious to see how the ported design compares to the pipe.
Peace,
Godzilla
Tombstone:
I hope this works. I got Planet10 to draw this up for me. It breaks the curve up into 20 segments. Set the table saw at 4.5 degrees and cut the sections. Use 3/4 in material. You may need to make a male or female mold for clamping and use a glue with long set time to allow for some fussing about.
If the diagram does not work maybe dave can find the one he did for me.
Good luck
I have not tried it yet
I hope this works. I got Planet10 to draw this up for me. It breaks the curve up into 20 segments. Set the table saw at 4.5 degrees and cut the sections. Use 3/4 in material. You may need to make a male or female mold for clamping and use a glue with long set time to allow for some fussing about.
If the diagram does not work maybe dave can find the one he did for me.
Good luck
I have not tried it yet
Attachments
loninappleton said:
Greets!
I use to make my own kerfcore out of marine grade plywood till a business trip to a mil-spec parts supplier brought these folks to my attention: http://www.baltek.com/applications/aerospace.html
I ordered mine from a local marine supply house. Not particularly cheap, but it sure beat making what seemed like a kazillion slits in 3/4" ply just to make two horns.
GM
planet10 said:
With the success of planet_10 sealed bi-pole for the WR/FR125:
http://www.planet10-hifi.com/sealed.html
I was wondering if anyone has tried a sealed bi-pole for the FE127E?
I have noticed that my BD-Pipes start to suffer in the mid-range (and get ugly in the bass) with increasing driver displacement.
I was thinking that a sealed box may help limit the driver displacement, thus delivering a better mid-range.
The problem is see with a sealed box is that with an F3=120 Hz (23L), a subwoofer would have to cross over at about 100-110Hz and you may be able to locate it. Or, do you think I could count on some bass reinforcement from the room and cross the sub at 80-90Hz?
Anyway, I am always interested in hearing what the others think as I am not sure if I should go t-line or sealed.
Cheers,
Gio.