diyAB Amp - The "Honey Badger"

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#826
@jofual: All i know, ostripper designer of this amp. Put all the best of his expreince to this amp. I'm not built it yet. But i bet this is a very good amp. Try to read thread of frugalamp and mongrel and you know who was ostripper. I've built sysmasym v5.3 and this amp derived from. Ostripper supersym ii aka mongrel. if you want to build it i think we can share expreince in our local forum
 
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#828
Operating voltage. . . can I use less than 60v rails?

Hey, I was wondering if I could use 35vdc rails in case I happened to have 2 way speakers and didn't need to crack up the vocals coming from the madly shaking woofer (aka didn't quite need the 150 watts when 60 would do) or in case I have 4 ohm speakers that need good current but didn't quite need as much voltage, then could I use 42vdc rails?

I guess I just need a briefing on what rail voltages work well for this amp. Is it specific to 60vdc rails or can I use less without getting into a lot of modifications?

Thanks!!
 
#829
danielwritesbac said:
Hey, I was wondering if I could use 35vdc rails in case I happened to have 2 way speakers and didn't need to crack up the vocals coming from the madly shaking woofer (aka didn't quite need the 150 watts when 60 would do) or in case I have 4 ohm speakers that need good current but didn't quite need as much voltage, then could I use 42vdc rails?

I guess I just need a briefing on what rail voltages work well for this amp. Is it specific to 60vdc rails or can I use less without getting into a lot of modifications?

Thanks!!
Click to expand...
Hi,

OS's post #171 http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/192431-diyab-amp-honey-badger-4.html#post2648883 would suggest that the amplifier would work with 15VDC rails, certainly fine at +/- 42V. But would you need all of the output pairs for that supply voltage?
 
#830
currentflow said:
Hi,OS's post #171 http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/192431-diyab-amp-honey-badger-4.html#post2648883 would suggest that the amplifier would work with 15VDC rails, certainly fine at +/- 42V. But would you need all of the output pairs for that supply voltage?
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A). Thank you very much! Perhaps there's some common transformers usable that we may already own.

B). In some case the 60vdc rails doesn't need the triple parallel output and there are other cases where the 42vdc rails needs triple parallel outputs and sturdy devices. That seems to vary by speaker load, right?
 
#831
danielwritesbac said:
A). Thank you very much! Perhaps there's some common transformers usable that we may already own.

B). In some case the 60vdc rails doesn't need the triple parallel output and there are other cases where the 42vdc rails needs triple parallel outputs and sturdy devices. That seems to vary by speaker load, right?
Click to expand...
Lower impedance loads such as 4 ohms might well require at least two pairs of output devices. In any event, if you were considering reducing the pairs, it would be worth recalculating the device dissipation / SOAR limits first.
 
#832
currentflow said:
Lower impedance loads such as 4 ohms might well require at least two pairs of output devices. In any event, if you were considering reducing the pairs, it would be worth recalculating the device dissipation / SOAR limits first.
Click to expand...
Sure, for example, 16 ohm speakers used full range or 8 ohm speakers used 150hz for HT, or like you previously mentioned, much lower voltage in combination with 8 ohm speakers. Aside from a few odd applications, it looks like there's not many cases of wanting to reduce the amount of output devices.
 
#833
Got my boards yesterday. The quality looks fantastic!

So, I'm pretty much a newbie and this is my next project. I'd be happy to contribute to the project by documenting my questions and problems as I go, perhaps it would help in adding to the current build doc and making this amp as noob friendly as possible.

For example, I'm currently stuck on parts selection- I'm not sure what type of resistor is best for each on the parts list. Ditto for caps. It would be great to have some help creating links to mouser products (or whoever). Perhaps we could even list which ones have the most effect on sound, and offer higher-end alternatives?

I'd be happy to start a spreadsheet on Google Docs and open it up to anyone who wants to help.
 
#835
mattmcl said:
I'm not sure what type of resistor is best for each on the parts list. Ditto for caps. It would be great to have some help creating links to mouser products (or whoever). Perhaps we could even list which ones have the most effect on sound, and offer higher-end alternatives?
Click to expand...
Most resistors can be Xicon 1/4w carbon (nice thick pins and high quality); Most small capacitors can be silver mica (OStripper doesn't like ceramic used in compensation areas); Most large capacitors can be Panasonic FC (or other audio worthy electro--use diyaudio.com search feature).

That covers the majority; however. . .
I'd question for the exceptions:
Which resistors are to be larger/better than 1/4w carbon?
Which caps have little effect and may be econo caps?

The answers could make some good Build Thread material.
 
#838
Stormrider said:
No reason to use carbon film these days.
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In an audio purpose amplifier, I imagine that the specific use would be for Base Stopper; but, otherwise the metal film would either work better or the difference may be inapplicably small. Not conversely, but rather Likewise, I think that metal film works an tiny bit better for input load and many similar shunt tasks.

Here's an applied example:
If R5 and R2 (connects to input bases) resistors are changed for series pairs (390+430=820) of carbon then you will have faked the "clearer and less hard sound" of an LDR volume control without having to either purchase or build the LDR volume control. The difference/effect is tiny but apparently worth something. Although this effect is certainly less important than trying a few different capacitors at C3 and C1, it is still true that a more appreciable tone could make the capacitor selection routine (try five, choose the best) a bit easier, faster, or very slightly more pleasant. At least it is easy. Likewise good quality metal is probably the easiest way to best results from R3, R6, since metal film, more linear at all frequencies, might do a tiny bit better for shunting RF.

When both of those resistor ideas are employed and gain applied, then it may be noticeable, slightly. It looks like a good spot for some economical audiophile play. At least it isn't unusual that the specs of an ideal part depend so much on where it is used.

P.S.
It appears that opinion varies on this, and it appears that what causes the largest variance is that the compensations used in the amplifier can make some tonal differences that are considerably more important than a cap or resistor. Since one would not want to fine tune to indirectly address an issue, I wonder if HoneyBadger has some documented options for compensation adjustment or differences?
 
#839
Cap Sizes

Can some one who has boards check to see if mica caps (47pF) will fit in positions C18 and C19. The lead spacing on the PCB diagram looks small to me. Can ceramics be used in this position if there is not enough room?

Also C5 on the BOM says lead spacing 3.5mm but I think the PCB is 2.5mm.
 
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