diyAB Amp The "Honey Badger" build thread

I have ordered the parts for the Honey badger as my first project.
I planned to use a Antek an-10445 powersupply when choosing caps etc. Then I found out that the postage to Norway will be around $300 so I have to find something cheaper.

I'm considering to buy a 1000va 45v transformer from a Norwegian producer, still waiting for a quote on that one.
I also have a offer to buy 2 x 500VA 40V transformers that I can use instead.
What are the pros and cons running 1x1000VA vs 2x500VA trafos?
I want to have both channels in one chassis anyway, so in my mind it will be easier with one big transformer. How is the performance affected if I use a 40v transformer instead of 45v?
 
...I want to have both channels in one chassis anyway...
Including a little fudge-factor for warming the br and power factor loss, a 65% efficient amplifier could do 318W solo, or 159W per channel, stereo amp with a 550va transformer. That was estimated.
Relevant range, 550va~700va if one 40+40vac transformer for stereo Honey Badger.
You'll need a soft-start circuit.
 
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So 1x 500va won't be powerfull enough?

How about this one?
https://www.elfaelektronikk.no/elfa3~no_no/elfa/init.do?item=56-139-97&toc=18841
I want to have an oversized transformer to be sure that the power isn't limited by the PSU.

Consider this -

You might want the total current limited by the trafo. This is how the
OEM's get away with inflated power ratings. :D

Two examples - HK990 = 200W/ch 8R .... just 2 300+VA dual mono
toroids. Rails will drop with excessive current demands (5 pair MJL outputs).
SOA is never exceeded.

My amp = 1000VA /250W ch. ... Without my fancy overcurrent protection ,
my 5 pairs would be "toast". The PS barely drops a volt at full load.

500VA for 150W X 2 is about in line with mid to high end OEM.
For dynamic musical loads , the PS capacitance is more important.
I use 40Kuf for all 3 of my 250W amps.

You would be "blown away" by the sound and dynamics of a 500VA
with 2 X 40Kuf banks.

OS
 
As RS online shop sent me humming 625VA transformers (which I returned) I was left with local 500VA 2x45V toroids.

Tried to fit 2x4x15mF caps but managed only 2x3x15mF ones (roughly what OS recommended). So my HB has sufficient dynamics and as each enclosure with two amps serves one channel fed from my active low freq. and mid-high freq. crossover it's even better.

cheers,
 
load impedance driving capability depends on the transformer power/voltage and on the output stage current capability.

That was in my previous post: 500VA (2x45V and 2x5.55A), 2x45mF, two bridges supplying 2 modules per channel (low: 70Hz to 700Hz and medium-high above from my active crossover). Power transistors: 3 x (MG6331 and MG9411).

Thanks,
cheers,
 
That was in my previous post: 500VA (2x45V and 2x5.55A), 2x45mF, two bridges supplying 2 modules per channel (low: 70Hz to 700Hz and medium-high above from my active crossover). Power transistors: 3 x (MG6331 and MG9411).

Thanks,
cheers,

The MG's have a superior SOA to ON/fairchild devices . They might do 2R
up to 60V rails.

I don't have the MG's , but I shorted my MT-200 3 pair right out to ground
.... and they survived. I also ran 2 4R woofers in parallel with it - I was
seeing if I could burn it up - nope. Just blown 10A fuses.
From my primitive testing methods , 3 pair MG/MT-200 exceeds 5 pair
MJL/NJW by a wide margin.

OS
 
In what respect? Output or the ability to manage abuse?

Both , 5 pair of MG/MT-200 would be "God". You would melt wires before
device failure. Thimios and Jwilhelm also have noticed the durability of
the MT-200 package.

OEM's rate single pair MT-200 amps 120/180W (8/4R) ... I see why.
A Badger with these would be a 300W amp running on 70V rails.
OS
 
The MG's have a superior SOA to ON/fairchild devices . They might do 2R
up to 60V rails.

I don't have the MG's , but I shorted my MT-200 3 pair right out to ground
.... and they survived. I also ran 2 4R woofers in parallel with it - I was
seeing if I could burn it up - nope. Just blown 10A fuses.
From my primitive testing methods , 3 pair MG/MT-200 exceeds 5 pair
MJL/NJW by a wide margin.

OS

Thanks Os.

My problem is a result of silly savings. Originally I intended to buy four 16 ohm drivers but then decided to get only two 8 ohm drivers with a touch better parameters. When these arrived I realised that it would be better to have a pair per box to improve linearity. So either I get another pair of 8 ohm neodymiums or sell mine at some loss and buy four 16 ohm ferro magnet drivers and pay twice shipping costs.

cheers,
 
Im planning on building a honey badger, and i just have a few questions about it.
I want to build it in a 3U chassis, would that give enough cooling for this amp?
Also wondering if its possible to get more than 2x150w out of it?

3U should be fine (depending on what it is). A 3U at 300mm length with
50mm fins is right at the limit for my 5 pair output stage.
It will run 40+C on a warm summer day (30C). It will max out at 50+C
when run hard.

3 pair should run real cool on a 3U. I have both a 3 pair MT-200 and
to-3P on 2 other equivalant 3U's , only 5-10C above ambient.

If you can fit the MT-200's (they just barely fit), or go buy Semelab
MG6330/9410 output devices , the badger will be a 250W+ "superamp"(70V rails).
Other "tweaks" are needed to optimize the more aggressive OPS.

OS
 
3U should be fine (depending on what it is). A 3U at 300mm length with
50mm fins is right at the limit for my 5 pair output stage.
It will run 40+C on a warm summer day (30C). It will max out at 50+C
when run hard.

3 pair should run real cool on a 3U. I have both a 3 pair MT-200 and
to-3P on 2 other equivalant 3U's , only 5-10C above ambient.

If you can fit the MT-200's (they just barely fit), or go buy Semelab
MG6330/9410 output devices , the badger will be a 250W+ "superamp"(70V rails).
Other "tweaks" are needed to optimize the more aggressive OPS.

OS
Hmm, interesting!
Will definately go for a 3U then, was thinking about a modushop one :)
I guess going for one of those ouput devices requires some changes to the components?
Probably a little advanced when going for my first power amp? (Done a preamp kit and a dac kit)
 
Can you guys see if there's something wrong here?
On both channels the 10 ohm 1w resistor releases it's magic smoke. I measured 5v dc across one of them. There's no light on the led.

Where do I start troubleshooting? :confused:
Red wire = +60v, white wire = gnd blue wire = -60v
 

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