Hi James,Hi Daniel, Thanks for your recommendation! I wish I have the space to install this fast reacting power supply but it is limited.
Last few days, I did some high volume test with c11, c15 of 2.2uf caps, the 4 ohm speakers started to sound like not feed well when volume > 50%. I had 4 pcs of Nichicon muse 47uf caps on hand. After changing that, it came back to normal. Now enjoying the music and happy with this setup.
Actually my recommendation was 94u per rail (paralleled pairs 47u--an easy "no plastic" bypass). But, I'm glad you got it working nicely and significantly closer to specs than previously.
Tip: Next time you have a ringing bypass situation to repair, swap the bypass cap, not the large cap. Since you mentioned Nichicon Muse, I remembered that I often use 0.47u and 1u and even smaller sizes of Nichicon electrolytic caps to bypass larger electrolytic. I've absolutely no idea why that is far easier than finding a just right smaller size of plastic cap. But, bypassing is often a case of go with what works.
Easiest possible bypass is fully identical paralleling of same model cap, such as the working example of 220u||220u (440u) Panasonic FC for NFB feedback-shunt cap. Somewhere back a few posts, this upgrade was used and reviewed.
Sizing in that area is also affected by input cap size in this way: Don't put more in than can go through. So, by ear, you'd just try to find the smallest input cap that you can use without decreasing the bass, much (although do try to decrease the boomy). A just right size, at both locations, will do clearer, higher quality bass, and may reveal higher quality bari as well. You'll find out really soon.
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Impressions? Opinoins? How does this amp sound?
Hello all,
After reading 99% of the build post's on the Badger, I'm looking for opinions on the Badger, How does it sound built with all the original parts in the original PDF build guide listed at diyAudio?
I have the boards but have not ordered any parts yet.
Or what would you have done differently?
Thanks
webechillin
Hello all,
After reading 99% of the build post's on the Badger, I'm looking for opinions on the Badger, How does it sound built with all the original parts in the original PDF build guide listed at diyAudio?
I have the boards but have not ordered any parts yet.
Or what would you have done differently?
Thanks
webechillin
Hi All,
I'm in the process of sourcing all the parts to build this, but I'm running into problems finding the KSC1845 and the KSA992. They don't seem to be offered by the major distributors in small quantities. The build document mentioned there would be easy to find alternatives, but don't list anything for Q3-Q9.. which are the only ones I need. the rest of the parts were no problem besides the Noble resistors which I'm also trying to track down.
thanks, looking forward to getting started on this!
-jay
I'm in the process of sourcing all the parts to build this, but I'm running into problems finding the KSC1845 and the KSA992. They don't seem to be offered by the major distributors in small quantities. The build document mentioned there would be easy to find alternatives, but don't list anything for Q3-Q9.. which are the only ones I need. the rest of the parts were no problem besides the Noble resistors which I'm also trying to track down.
thanks, looking forward to getting started on this!
-jay
I wouldn't change anything if using Honey Badger for outdoor prosound. However, for indoor use, I would change C4 to 220uF.
Go back to post # 79 and click on the links. Presto! Parts found.
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Treble nitpick
But, I'd like to apologize for doing an incomplete job, especially at the treble and related harmonics. According to the schematic, R4 current drives C3, a southside RC, a treble reducer, a bad cap simulator (4.7R added to ESR of C3 = bad cap). To reverse that I've come up with a plan. There may be caveats! This mod might blow up, might waste 26 cents and it may or may not be audible. Please regard it as experimental.
Insert a fractional value electrolytic cap at groundpoint G2; from the new cap with added 1R4 to create an RC; then that new 1R4 connects to the point where C3 meets R5. This has bypassed the treble loss with an RC, and since it doesn't fit the board, it has also bypassed the "sound of" the board, whatever that may be. Well, I guessed the values and so you may want to fine tune that.
Groundlift resistors that exceed approximately 2R2 may cause audio band treble droop (response tilt) at NFB-Shunt cap. Honey Badger's groundlift resistor does exceed that estimated value, but only slightly, so this post was a nitpick. I just wanted to make certain to outperform a DC tracker, making it unnecessary by doing a cleaner job with ordinary passive parts.
I'm glad that worked for your extra clean bass.
But, I'd like to apologize for doing an incomplete job, especially at the treble and related harmonics. According to the schematic, R4 current drives C3, a southside RC, a treble reducer, a bad cap simulator (4.7R added to ESR of C3 = bad cap). To reverse that I've come up with a plan. There may be caveats! This mod might blow up, might waste 26 cents and it may or may not be audible. Please regard it as experimental.
Insert a fractional value electrolytic cap at groundpoint G2; from the new cap with added 1R4 to create an RC; then that new 1R4 connects to the point where C3 meets R5. This has bypassed the treble loss with an RC, and since it doesn't fit the board, it has also bypassed the "sound of" the board, whatever that may be. Well, I guessed the values and so you may want to fine tune that.
Groundlift resistors that exceed approximately 2R2 may cause audio band treble droop (response tilt) at NFB-Shunt cap. Honey Badger's groundlift resistor does exceed that estimated value, but only slightly, so this post was a nitpick. I just wanted to make certain to outperform a DC tracker, making it unnecessary by doing a cleaner job with ordinary passive parts.
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Hi cod3gen,
G2 is small signal gnd isolates the power supply gnd an CCS gnd by resistor and diodes. And, G1 is purely star gnd which provides all the power supply gnd and other gnd to form a Kirchoff 0V, 0A note.
As R13 and R15 are part of CCS and we all do not wish the current will flow back and pollute to signal side. It is correct to conncted after the isolation circuit and back to star gnd G1.
James
Orientation of D3?
The orientation of D3 is not shown on either the board, or on the schematics. Judging from my limited understanding, I think current is supposed to flow from R19 to D1, D2, R4, etc. In which case the band on my diode goes on the side facing the jumper, and the letters "LTP". I just wanted to check before I soldered this in place.
I'm surprised so one has asked this question yet.
The orientation of D3 is not shown on either the board, or on the schematics. Judging from my limited understanding, I think current is supposed to flow from R19 to D1, D2, R4, etc. In which case the band on my diode goes on the side facing the jumper, and the letters "LTP". I just wanted to check before I soldered this in place.
I'm surprised so one has asked this question yet.
Source for R43 – R48?
The Honey Badger BOM specifies Nobel-brand resistors for R43 to R48, the 0.22R power resistors. In Post #42, Danielwritesback posted a BOM with a link to a vendor for these, Analog Metric, in Hong Kong. Analog Metric no longer sells these. An e-mail asking about them got the response “We have KOA 0.22R 5W in stock. Please advise if this is ok.” A visit to KOA’s web sited showed that KOA Speer doesn’t have a suitable replacement for the Nobel RGC3 or RGC5.
Unfortunately, the pads for these resistors are too close together to accommodate any other resistor I’ve found. Of course, conventional wirewound resistors can be used, standing them up on end, but I’d rather have the Nobel resistors.
Nobel’s web site http://www.nobleusa.com/pdf/rgb-rgg.pdf has the resistors, and a list of distributors, but so far none that I’ve contacted have responded to my e-mail asking for a quote for 25 of them. I think these distributors are set up to sell to manufacturers who buy thousands at a time.
So the question is: Has anyone found either a replacement for the Nobel resistors for R43 to R48, or a source for the Nobel brand?
The Honey Badger BOM specifies Nobel-brand resistors for R43 to R48, the 0.22R power resistors. In Post #42, Danielwritesback posted a BOM with a link to a vendor for these, Analog Metric, in Hong Kong. Analog Metric no longer sells these. An e-mail asking about them got the response “We have KOA 0.22R 5W in stock. Please advise if this is ok.” A visit to KOA’s web sited showed that KOA Speer doesn’t have a suitable replacement for the Nobel RGC3 or RGC5.
Unfortunately, the pads for these resistors are too close together to accommodate any other resistor I’ve found. Of course, conventional wirewound resistors can be used, standing them up on end, but I’d rather have the Nobel resistors.
Nobel’s web site http://www.nobleusa.com/pdf/rgb-rgg.pdf has the resistors, and a list of distributors, but so far none that I’ve contacted have responded to my e-mail asking for a quote for 25 of them. I think these distributors are set up to sell to manufacturers who buy thousands at a time.
So the question is: Has anyone found either a replacement for the Nobel resistors for R43 to R48, or a source for the Nobel brand?
Attachments
Hello guys,
I am pretty new around here, and this is my first build.
I wanted to share what I have so far and see what you guys think!
Warning: there are a whole lot of really large images!
Honey Badger Amp
That has most of the images I took, but the rest can be found HERE
It's not completely finished yet, still on the list is:
What do you guys think of it so far?
Thanks,
Juvenal
I am pretty new around here, and this is my first build.
I wanted to share what I have so far and see what you guys think!
Warning: there are a whole lot of really large images!
Honey Badger Amp
That has most of the images I took, but the rest can be found HERE
It's not completely finished yet, still on the list is:
- SLB Grounding
- LDR Volume control for Mezmerize
- Chassis/transformer for Mezmerize
What do you guys think of it so far?
Thanks,
Juvenal
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Very nice. I got the same chassis. It looks like it's a lot bigger than it needs to be. Maybe I'll have to add another couple of channels to fill all that empty space up!
It looks like you opted for no VAS heatsink. I got aluminum sheet metal from here: 7075 Aluminum Solid Sheet, Annealed, 0.08" Thick, 4" Width, 4" Length, Pack Of 6: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific . The stuff available from the hardware store was too thin.
I don't believe this this is your first build.
It looks like you opted for no VAS heatsink. I got aluminum sheet metal from here: 7075 Aluminum Solid Sheet, Annealed, 0.08" Thick, 4" Width, 4" Length, Pack Of 6: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific . The stuff available from the hardware store was too thin.
I don't believe this this is your first build.
Yes, its definitely very large in there. I was debating whether or not to try and put the mezmerize in there, or a separate chassis. I feel like putting it in a separate chassis would be better for any potential interference, but there is definitely enough room to fit it.
I did, simply because I could not find anything suitable quickly at a local store. If it becomes an issue I will definitely look harder.
Well, its my first amp build, but I am not new to DIY or soldering by any means
http://i.juvsoft.com/solderingex.jpg - those pins are at 0.5mm pitch (center to center)
If Mez were remotely controllable them it could make some operational sense to build an integrated amplifier.
If the Mez is hand operated, either selector or volume, then the "pre-amp" should be located where you can reach it easily, maybe next to your listening seat.
That then allows you to put the power amp where it can perform best. Right behind the speaker it is driving, with the shortest possible amp to driver twisted pair.
If the Mez is hand operated, either selector or volume, then the "pre-amp" should be located where you can reach it easily, maybe next to your listening seat.
That then allows you to put the power amp where it can perform best. Right behind the speaker it is driving, with the shortest possible amp to driver twisted pair.
I have ordered what appears to be a suitable substitute from AnalogMetric. The URL is:
Cement 0.2 Ohm 5W Non-inductance Resistor_Cement_Resistor_Analog Metric - DIY Audio Kit
Seems to roughly fit the bill, have about the right pinout and be from a supplier that might be more reliable than ebay.
There are some high quality options out there already mentioned if you don't mind vertical mounting a more standard resistor shape. Building my own amplifier seems a bit like madness at the moment, but I'm going to have a play anyway. What's the worst that could happen?