They are either ENX or EYB bulbs. I've seen two different sites saying they supply lamps for the AI-1000 but they have the two different kinds. Strange...
edit I just realized that I own this now. So I popped it open and checked it out. It says DYS 120V 600W on the thing. So now there's three different lamps... I guess I'll stick with the DYS since I know for sure that's the one that works and that I can buy it like you said.
As for the Spectra C problem you're having, do u think it could be a configuration/setting mistake? Or maybe the heat got to it.
edit I just realized that I own this now. So I popped it open and checked it out. It says DYS 120V 600W on the thing. So now there's three different lamps... I guess I'll stick with the DYS since I know for sure that's the one that works and that I can buy it like you said.
As for the Spectra C problem you're having, do u think it could be a configuration/setting mistake? Or maybe the heat got to it.
hum, that's really odd actually. mine has no smearing at all, and ive tested it more thoroughly than it should be tested probably 🙂
did you view the motion test video on my site? it shows how the spectra c handles motion (very well!). if yours looks quite a bit differently that this, it may be a problem with the panel.
did you view the motion test video on my site? it shows how the spectra c handles motion (very well!). if yours looks quite a bit differently that this, it may be a problem with the panel.
It could be that my panel is bad, but I am being fairly critical in my description. Most people don't even notice it when I show it to them. You almost have to be looking for it. It's not a blurring of motion....the motion is great! No trailing or blurring during normal playback. The distortion I am seeing is a faint "ghosting" just to the left and slightly up from the intending picture. It is visible during playback or pause.
I have tried all of the remote settings, and none seemed to help very much. They do, however, have a significant impact on picture quality. I would recommend to anyone that hasn't played with different settings to do so ASAP. It made a big difference for me!
Thanks for the link, noodles! Too bad I already payed $20 + tax for 1 DYS bulb 🙁 .
-f4
I have tried all of the remote settings, and none seemed to help very much. They do, however, have a significant impact on picture quality. I would recommend to anyone that hasn't played with different settings to do so ASAP. It made a big difference for me!
Thanks for the link, noodles! Too bad I already payed $20 + tax for 1 DYS bulb 🙁 .
-f4
have you done the calibration on the back of the remote?
it might not have the label attached still, here is how to calibrate the panel:
Press reset, then focus, then palette, and this is what you can do:
adjust 9th pixel drop: (no idea what this does) Color
adjust phase: (refresh rate, if you have jitter) Tint
that should work out for you. if it doesnt, i think its a bad panel...
oh, and press reset to exit calibration mode. that should help out everyone with a spectra c. it will solve any issues you have.
it might not have the label attached still, here is how to calibrate the panel:
Press reset, then focus, then palette, and this is what you can do:
adjust 9th pixel drop: (no idea what this does) Color
adjust phase: (refresh rate, if you have jitter) Tint
that should work out for you. if it doesnt, i think its a bad panel...
oh, and press reset to exit calibration mode. that should help out everyone with a spectra c. it will solve any issues you have.
cowang,
I'm not sure if I have the same remote as you. I have attached an image of the face of the remote. I don't have a palette button, but I do have a button for phase. Maybe we have different year models or something 😎 . Unless there is a hidden calibration that I can find (or that someone could point out to me!), I think I might just have a bad panel....actually, even if I can't figure it out, it's really not that bad. It's just me being picky 🙂 . I can live with it.
Thanks for your help,
f4
I'm not sure if I have the same remote as you. I have attached an image of the face of the remote. I don't have a palette button, but I do have a button for phase. Maybe we have different year models or something 😎 . Unless there is a hidden calibration that I can find (or that someone could point out to me!), I think I might just have a bad panel....actually, even if I can't figure it out, it's really not that bad. It's just me being picky 🙂 . I can live with it.
Thanks for your help,
f4
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Re: hehe
Probably your HPS industrial is not approximating a point source well enough. Any distributed light source will cause the image to wash out, as light is passing through each pixel on the LCD from heaps of angles and ending up in all sorts of different places on the final projection screen.
prjctr_builder said:
Probably your HPS industrial is not approximating a point source well enough. Any distributed light source will cause the image to wash out, as light is passing through each pixel on the LCD from heaps of angles and ending up in all sorts of different places on the final projection screen.
How technical do I need to be?
I'd love to be able to build a 1280X720 DLP projector with good video capabilities. Do you really think this could be done by a novice with pretty good hands and basic knowledge of a projector? Also, what kind of turnkey price would you expect from a projector such as this, so that, if I screwed the whole thing up I would know how much I blew. Whatever info you have would be helpful.
Thanx
🙂
I'd love to be able to build a 1280X720 DLP projector with good video capabilities. Do you really think this could be done by a novice with pretty good hands and basic knowledge of a projector? Also, what kind of turnkey price would you expect from a projector such as this, so that, if I screwed the whole thing up I would know how much I blew. Whatever info you have would be helpful.
Thanx
🙂
I'd love to be able to build a 1280X720 DLP projector. Could a novice with good hands and a basic knowledge of a projector build one with good video capabilities. Any Info you have would be helpful.
🙂
🙂
DLP: Quick answer, yes
Yes, Ti does make a developement kit for XVGA res (not any other right now) which does make it easy for a novice to interface the chip, and given enough time, you probably would have an awesome projector. The only catch is the developement kit is $10K. If for some reason you think you can skip the development kit, Ti sells the DLP on its control circuit board (DMD) for $3K, $2k for higher quantities (100+).
Long answer is that it is not feasible.
Yes, Ti does make a developement kit for XVGA res (not any other right now) which does make it easy for a novice to interface the chip, and given enough time, you probably would have an awesome projector. The only catch is the developement kit is $10K. If for some reason you think you can skip the development kit, Ti sells the DLP on its control circuit board (DMD) for $3K, $2k for higher quantities (100+).
Long answer is that it is not feasible.
HOWBURGER
dude, there is no answer to that question. you cannot know for sure if you can build a projector. you can surely go the Overhead projection panel and the overhead projector way and that would cost you about $400), but i feel like i will expect more than that construction can give me.
first of all you need to read the whole thread.
secondly, tell us if you can build 1280x720 projector.
P.S. i don't tink they make 1280x 720 panels, do they? and if they do, it will cost you a LOT.
aleksey
dude, there is no answer to that question. you cannot know for sure if you can build a projector. you can surely go the Overhead projection panel and the overhead projector way and that would cost you about $400), but i feel like i will expect more than that construction can give me.
first of all you need to read the whole thread.
secondly, tell us if you can build 1280x720 projector.
P.S. i don't tink they make 1280x 720 panels, do they? and if they do, it will cost you a LOT.
aleksey
howburger, you gotta be kidding me...
a dlp projector? well, is you must... the price for a whole DLP unit is like $1500-$2000 if you can get ahold of one. mirrors, optics, etc, will run you probably around $300. still interested?
if you had done ANY !ANY! research, you would have known this.
a dlp projector? well, is you must... the price for a whole DLP unit is like $1500-$2000 if you can get ahold of one. mirrors, optics, etc, will run you probably around $300. still interested?
if you had done ANY !ANY! research, you would have known this.
It'll be Wednesday, June 26th before I can test my Apollo AI-1000 and Spectra C. Apparently, the guy I bought the panel from lives on the opposite corner of the US.
I've got all the crucial parts on order of here now.
Hello again all.
I just ordered the 12" parabolic reflector from Edmunds. I think that's the last of my initial testing pieces. I still haven't bought a mogul base, platform board, or rails, but here's what I've got so far and what it cost me:
nView Spectra C: $75
Metal Halide 400W bulb: $31
M59 ballast: $53
Parabolic reflector: $30
Fresnel lens: $5
PCX projection lens: $7
Glass panel: $6
------------------------------------
Total: $207
Like I said, I still need the mogul base and some mounting hardware, but I expect to be able to get all of that for under $25. That puts the project at around $232 in supplies. I'm sure I'll end up with a different PCX lens at some point, but this hsould be enough to get me going. I plan on mounting all this stuff via 2 threaded metal dowels , with each piece held in place between the two rails at their own precise point with 2 wingnuts on each rail (not sure if I'm explaining that clearly). This should allow for precision and easy adjustment.
Hope this helps someone at some point. If anyone sees anything I'm missing, let me know. Thanks!
Hello again all.
I just ordered the 12" parabolic reflector from Edmunds. I think that's the last of my initial testing pieces. I still haven't bought a mogul base, platform board, or rails, but here's what I've got so far and what it cost me:
nView Spectra C: $75
Metal Halide 400W bulb: $31
M59 ballast: $53
Parabolic reflector: $30
Fresnel lens: $5
PCX projection lens: $7
Glass panel: $6
------------------------------------
Total: $207
Like I said, I still need the mogul base and some mounting hardware, but I expect to be able to get all of that for under $25. That puts the project at around $232 in supplies. I'm sure I'll end up with a different PCX lens at some point, but this hsould be enough to get me going. I plan on mounting all this stuff via 2 threaded metal dowels , with each piece held in place between the two rails at their own precise point with 2 wingnuts on each rail (not sure if I'm explaining that clearly). This should allow for precision and easy adjustment.
Hope this helps someone at some point. If anyone sees anything I'm missing, let me know. Thanks!
What are the cautious and critical temperatures I should be looking for? I have a temp readout installed in my PC case that I'll probably end up slapping on my OHP.
noodles,
temperature limit with older panels mostly seems to be 35°(C). It is recommended to use an IR filter between bulb and panel!
There are 2 types of heat: 1. convection heat 2. radiation heat.
For 1# you can use fans,most projection panels already have one. for 2# IR filters.
xblocker
temperature limit with older panels mostly seems to be 35°(C). It is recommended to use an IR filter between bulb and panel!
There are 2 types of heat: 1. convection heat 2. radiation heat.
For 1# you can use fans,most projection panels already have one. for 2# IR filters.
xblocker
just curious
just wondering if u can buy different focal length lenses for OHP's.....when i borrowed my mates ohp 2 test my panel it was sitting in the middle of the room, right in the field of view (no keystone correction)
and would i be correct in saying that it would need a higher output globe to produce the same brightness picture, with same projection size but being another 8 feet back??
seeya!
just wondering if u can buy different focal length lenses for OHP's.....when i borrowed my mates ohp 2 test my panel it was sitting in the middle of the room, right in the field of view (no keystone correction)
and would i be correct in saying that it would need a higher output globe to produce the same brightness picture, with same projection size but being another 8 feet back??
seeya!
Hmm, question about fresnel lenses,
I have noticed you can get negative and positive ones. The ones in cars etc are negative, ie the disperse light away to increase vision. Am I correct in assuming I would need a positive fresnel then?
Thanks.
I have noticed you can get negative and positive ones. The ones in cars etc are negative, ie the disperse light away to increase vision. Am I correct in assuming I would need a positive fresnel then?
Thanks.
gav,
if you would like to have the same image size but longer throw distance, 2 things must change:
1. focal lenght of projection lens has to be longer
2. distance between bulb and fresnel has to be shorter
here once again the formula: 1/f=1/a+1/b.
f=focal lenght, a=image size, b= panel size
there's a little loss of brightness then.
Jackson Ho,
correct, only positive lenses can collimate a light beam!
xblocker
if you would like to have the same image size but longer throw distance, 2 things must change:
1. focal lenght of projection lens has to be longer
2. distance between bulb and fresnel has to be shorter
here once again the formula: 1/f=1/a+1/b.
f=focal lenght, a=image size, b= panel size
there's a little loss of brightness then.
Jackson Ho,
correct, only positive lenses can collimate a light beam!
xblocker
Hi guys,
I'll try to explain about Laptop LCD panel connection, see attached drawing below,
please correct me, if I'm wrong:
Thelaw
in the previous post you mentioned that you're going to use double-ended MH bulb, make sure the filament or whatever the name, where the light sparks, it must be point light source, otherwise like halogen bulb with long filament, it produced blurry image at 2 sides (depend on lamp position), except at the middle of the image.
fender4
About smearing image, don't be to fast blamed on the LCD panel, maybe the problem is from light source.
I did some test:
I draw multiple horizontal and vertical lines with different thickness (mostly black color lines) on a piece of transparancy, project this image and see the result.
If the projected image shows the lines in perfect solid lines, then the problem goes to the LCD panel, if not... there are more then one causing this problem.
First: light source= not small enough as a point light source (critical)
Second: fresnel panel= not good enough, (the quality, bended etc) (less critical)
Third: lens= not good enough (spherical & chromatic abberation) (critical)
see you.
I'll try to explain about Laptop LCD panel connection, see attached drawing below,
please correct me, if I'm wrong:
Thelaw
in the previous post you mentioned that you're going to use double-ended MH bulb, make sure the filament or whatever the name, where the light sparks, it must be point light source, otherwise like halogen bulb with long filament, it produced blurry image at 2 sides (depend on lamp position), except at the middle of the image.
fender4
About smearing image, don't be to fast blamed on the LCD panel, maybe the problem is from light source.
I did some test:
I draw multiple horizontal and vertical lines with different thickness (mostly black color lines) on a piece of transparancy, project this image and see the result.
If the projected image shows the lines in perfect solid lines, then the problem goes to the LCD panel, if not... there are more then one causing this problem.
First: light source= not small enough as a point light source (critical)
Second: fresnel panel= not good enough, (the quality, bended etc) (less critical)
Third: lens= not good enough (spherical & chromatic abberation) (critical)
see you.
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