Hello,
I didn't want to scare anybody away by saying I would send you some samples of material if I could. I should have added that I would do it for free(as long as you were close enough). I have read posts in other forums where people tried to charge for info. I don't. That's what DIY is all about. Free exchange.
Thanks,
Joel
I didn't want to scare anybody away by saying I would send you some samples of material if I could. I should have added that I would do it for free(as long as you were close enough). I have read posts in other forums where people tried to charge for info. I don't. That's what DIY is all about. Free exchange.
Thanks,
Joel
Power
Hey Zark, what type/configuration/model of power supply are you using to drive the 5" lcd?
Hey Zark, what type/configuration/model of power supply are you using to drive the 5" lcd?
Hello all,
I don't think you would do better with two LCD's where one covering up the spaces to the second. That would look worse than with one LCD. You would get a pattern where there are dark, medium and light spots.
Do the best you can with a light source and one(ore more) equal LCD's.
Bi**h, hope you find a lens that fits your Proxima 810. Or in some way make the whole picture appear on the screen. Maybe it helps to adjust your lens forward or backwards, so the whole image is picked up in the lens and projected to the wall.
So far I think Myren has the best image. It's only the vertical stripes i don't like. But I like the image appearance, looks big and clear. And focused. And, Myren, I hope you don't get a picture as good as the LP930 with the same size on the box. If you do I probably have to find something else to do. I work at InFocus you know. I will try to bring in a picture of one of the projectors we make here in Fredrikstad, Norway.
See ya,
I don't think you would do better with two LCD's where one covering up the spaces to the second. That would look worse than with one LCD. You would get a pattern where there are dark, medium and light spots.
Do the best you can with a light source and one(ore more) equal LCD's.
Bi**h, hope you find a lens that fits your Proxima 810. Or in some way make the whole picture appear on the screen. Maybe it helps to adjust your lens forward or backwards, so the whole image is picked up in the lens and projected to the wall.
So far I think Myren has the best image. It's only the vertical stripes i don't like. But I like the image appearance, looks big and clear. And focused. And, Myren, I hope you don't get a picture as good as the LP930 with the same size on the box. If you do I probably have to find something else to do. I work at InFocus you know. I will try to bring in a picture of one of the projectors we make here in Fredrikstad, Norway.
See ya,
Here is the smallest one so far. Here are some specs:
It'a a DLP, costs about $5000
Light in weight — 1.5kg.
Bright — XGA resolution and 1100 lumens.
Whisper-quiet — less than 30dB.
Will post the picture it makes soon.
It'a a DLP, costs about $5000
Light in weight — 1.5kg.
Bright — XGA resolution and 1100 lumens.
Whisper-quiet — less than 30dB.
Will post the picture it makes soon.
Responce
Sorry I haven't had time to answer (busy working on the projector). So here is my responce.
alank
The fan mounted on top is configured to pull air (heat). I'm probably going to add another fan on the bottom to push air.
Bitch
The pics should be in color. I am makeing the images with a camcorder and sampling them in with a dazzle, so the quality isin't the greatest. Also I've made some adjustments to the screen contrast and brightness that should improve the performance.
Tim
The input of my LCD is standard composite NTSC.
Type-E
I showed my wife and she was impressed, but I haven't done any extended viewing tests with a real screen though (been too cold), my screen is in a shop outside.
Myren
Do you have a web site or somewhere that I can see a screen sample?
fender4
The image is projected on a 6.5' curved screen. I'll put some more images with viewable refrence objects. The colors seem ok, I've made some adjustments to the LCD which improved the performance. The LCD is a cheap 5" from parts-express, it was easy to remove from the case. The projector is about 6-8' from the screen. I'm going to post some more pics and mpeg of it as soon as I get time ( maybe this weekend ).
Forrest
The quality dosen't seem too bad. I'm still tuning it and working out the details.
dwalls32
The power supply is a computer power supply that I had laying around.
Sorry I haven't had time to answer (busy working on the projector). So here is my responce.
alank
The fan mounted on top is configured to pull air (heat). I'm probably going to add another fan on the bottom to push air.
Bitch
The pics should be in color. I am makeing the images with a camcorder and sampling them in with a dazzle, so the quality isin't the greatest. Also I've made some adjustments to the screen contrast and brightness that should improve the performance.
Tim
The input of my LCD is standard composite NTSC.
Type-E
I showed my wife and she was impressed, but I haven't done any extended viewing tests with a real screen though (been too cold), my screen is in a shop outside.
Myren
Do you have a web site or somewhere that I can see a screen sample?
fender4
The image is projected on a 6.5' curved screen. I'll put some more images with viewable refrence objects. The colors seem ok, I've made some adjustments to the LCD which improved the performance. The LCD is a cheap 5" from parts-express, it was easy to remove from the case. The projector is about 6-8' from the screen. I'm going to post some more pics and mpeg of it as soon as I get time ( maybe this weekend ).
Forrest
The quality dosen't seem too bad. I'm still tuning it and working out the details.
dwalls32
The power supply is a computer power supply that I had laying around.
Soje: I don't have a problem with my lens. It's ohp lens and can eat the size of the LCD easily. If you are referring to the pics, I just didn't have the time, the fresnel needs to be in right place to light up the whole screen. To get the image up enough in the wall in the pics is just not doable with cardbox as it doesn't keep in one piece if trying to put something under it.
My current setup is much more solid (if I wouldn't say maybe too much even). I'm sort of considering to buy a damn camera next week. I just need to figure something else use for it as well than taking pics from diy-projector..
My current setup is much more solid (if I wouldn't say maybe too much even). I'm sort of considering to buy a damn camera next week. I just need to figure something else use for it as well than taking pics from diy-projector..
slide projector
Hi all,
I've been reading this thread since the beginning, but didn't have any info worth sharing. Btw. it's nice to see such a project (and thread) going on for such a long time 🙂
So my questions:
1. I couldn't find a cheap OHP, so I spent 2 weeks posting classifieds, and finally I got a really-really old slide projector for around $10. The bulb is not working, and it has a really weird socket, probably used decades ago. The projector was made in communist Czechoslovakia 🙂 around 1985 or even before, so after searching the whole web for a bulb to fit in the projector I decided to replace the whole light source. The question is: should I use a halogen or something else? I can buy GE / Philips halogen and proper sockets, fortunately there is a GE Lighting factory in Budapest and one of my relatives is working there.
The projector has a built-in fan to cool the optics, and that fan is loud. Should I change that too? The projector is built into a massive metal case, I had to remove the whole top to rip the bulb out.
I'm going to make some sort of schematic to show you what I'm talking about.
My other problem is that the projector was made for 6x6 cm. slides, and this means I need a 2.5" LCD to fit the optical setup. Should I forget this projector and get back to the OHP / projection panel line? Here in Hungary, Europe I'm not sure I'm going to find such an LCD with a good resolution for projection 🙁
For those of you in Europe who also need LCD panels maybe Optrex http://www.optrex.de is a good source, but mars-cam.com has also distributors around here.
Sorry if this was too long. 🙂
Gabriel
Hi all,
I've been reading this thread since the beginning, but didn't have any info worth sharing. Btw. it's nice to see such a project (and thread) going on for such a long time 🙂
So my questions:
1. I couldn't find a cheap OHP, so I spent 2 weeks posting classifieds, and finally I got a really-really old slide projector for around $10. The bulb is not working, and it has a really weird socket, probably used decades ago. The projector was made in communist Czechoslovakia 🙂 around 1985 or even before, so after searching the whole web for a bulb to fit in the projector I decided to replace the whole light source. The question is: should I use a halogen or something else? I can buy GE / Philips halogen and proper sockets, fortunately there is a GE Lighting factory in Budapest and one of my relatives is working there.
The projector has a built-in fan to cool the optics, and that fan is loud. Should I change that too? The projector is built into a massive metal case, I had to remove the whole top to rip the bulb out.
I'm going to make some sort of schematic to show you what I'm talking about.
My other problem is that the projector was made for 6x6 cm. slides, and this means I need a 2.5" LCD to fit the optical setup. Should I forget this projector and get back to the OHP / projection panel line? Here in Hungary, Europe I'm not sure I'm going to find such an LCD with a good resolution for projection 🙁
For those of you in Europe who also need LCD panels maybe Optrex http://www.optrex.de is a good source, but mars-cam.com has also distributors around here.
Sorry if this was too long. 🙂
Gabriel
slide projector
Hi all,
This is how my projector looks inside. Please tell me what do you think and what should I alter to make it better suitable for lcd projection. All lenses are glass lenses, the ones marked as projection (focus) were made by Meopta.
I could replace the huge fan with a smaller one and place the lcd driver board and/or other parts inside the housing. Any idea?
Thanks for helping,
Gabriel
Hi all,
This is how my projector looks inside. Please tell me what do you think and what should I alter to make it better suitable for lcd projection. All lenses are glass lenses, the ones marked as projection (focus) were made by Meopta.
I could replace the huge fan with a smaller one and place the lcd driver board and/or other parts inside the housing. Any idea?
Thanks for helping,
Gabriel
Attachments
gabriel,
Without seeing the actual sizes and specs of the lenses, mirrors, and bulbs in your slide projector, it is tough for me to make any significant suggestions. In my opinion, your best bet would be to use the projection lens assembly, a 2.5" LCD, and a completely different light setup. You may, however, find a halogen, metal halide, or similar bulb that could work with the existing setup. If you wanted to get really experimental, you could try using a high output PC (CFL) bulb in the place of the existing bulb (check out the GE bulb option from the ace-ballast link that lokost posted recently). That would probably have a relatively low output, however. It looks like the mirrors and lenses in your projector were designed to be used with a true point-source light, like a metal-halide.
If you find that you really can't use much of the slide projector, at least you can learn much about optics and the general theory behind projection. That alone is worth $10.
Vince,
Back in September, you mentioned Crystalloid Technologies' 1.8" LCD for $125.00. Do you have any experience with it? Any additional info about inputs? Also, I noticed you mentioned:
"LCD is actually a Sharp w/ 640x480 native resolution, but can go up to 800x600. Has S-Video, RGB inputs w/ 15 pin connector. It's 8.5" in diameter. $150 "
Is it available anymore? Thanks for the help.
-f4
Without seeing the actual sizes and specs of the lenses, mirrors, and bulbs in your slide projector, it is tough for me to make any significant suggestions. In my opinion, your best bet would be to use the projection lens assembly, a 2.5" LCD, and a completely different light setup. You may, however, find a halogen, metal halide, or similar bulb that could work with the existing setup. If you wanted to get really experimental, you could try using a high output PC (CFL) bulb in the place of the existing bulb (check out the GE bulb option from the ace-ballast link that lokost posted recently). That would probably have a relatively low output, however. It looks like the mirrors and lenses in your projector were designed to be used with a true point-source light, like a metal-halide.
If you find that you really can't use much of the slide projector, at least you can learn much about optics and the general theory behind projection. That alone is worth $10.
Vince,
Back in September, you mentioned Crystalloid Technologies' 1.8" LCD for $125.00. Do you have any experience with it? Any additional info about inputs? Also, I noticed you mentioned:
"LCD is actually a Sharp w/ 640x480 native resolution, but can go up to 800x600. Has S-Video, RGB inputs w/ 15 pin connector. It's 8.5" in diameter. $150 "
Is it available anymore? Thanks for the help.
-f4
Lights Lights Lights....
The never ending hunt goes on for a LAO equivalent that some of you guys are using, I really don't think Halogen is an option for me and the Dichroic Reflector Cluster idea fell through...
So I did a bit of hunting on the net and I got some contradictory info about this....
Basically instead of using a 65w CFL like the lights of america, would you get the equivalent output if 3 20w Compact Fluorescent Lights were used instead....
cheers
😀
The never ending hunt goes on for a LAO equivalent that some of you guys are using, I really don't think Halogen is an option for me and the Dichroic Reflector Cluster idea fell through...
So I did a bit of hunting on the net and I got some contradictory info about this....
Basically instead of using a 65w CFL like the lights of america, would you get the equivalent output if 3 20w Compact Fluorescent Lights were used instead....
cheers
😀
Before i go, I know it seems that I only have questions and no answers for anyone else, but I will post replies when I can, I just need to get something on the go....I currently haven't bought a thing to get this setup going...Scotland's not exactly the best place for electronics....
anyway.....
keep it real....
😎
anyway.....
keep it real....
😎
Forrest,
Like you, I am still in the research phase. It's frustrating, but I would like to be able to devote some quality time to construction, which I won't have for at least a few more weeks. Ugghh.
The 3 x 20 watt idea makes since, and I also have given it some though. This is 100% speculation, but I think the closer a fluorescent source is to a point-source light (like a halogen), the easier and more efficient it will be in producing usable lumens. For example, with a 3 x 20 watt setup, much of the space in front of the reflector will be occupied by bulb. These bulbs radiate light from 360 degrees, so much of the light will be reflected back onto the rear surface of bulb. I'm not sure what happens to it then, but it is bound to reduce the final output. With the LOA, there is less actual bulb (I think), which makes it better suited for use with a reflector. Now, if we could take a CFL light and overdrive it with the appropriate ballast.......
BTW, does anyone know of a web calculator or software for calculating the curve of a parabolic reflector?
Good luck, everybody.
-f4
Like you, I am still in the research phase. It's frustrating, but I would like to be able to devote some quality time to construction, which I won't have for at least a few more weeks. Ugghh.
The 3 x 20 watt idea makes since, and I also have given it some though. This is 100% speculation, but I think the closer a fluorescent source is to a point-source light (like a halogen), the easier and more efficient it will be in producing usable lumens. For example, with a 3 x 20 watt setup, much of the space in front of the reflector will be occupied by bulb. These bulbs radiate light from 360 degrees, so much of the light will be reflected back onto the rear surface of bulb. I'm not sure what happens to it then, but it is bound to reduce the final output. With the LOA, there is less actual bulb (I think), which makes it better suited for use with a reflector. Now, if we could take a CFL light and overdrive it with the appropriate ballast.......
BTW, does anyone know of a web calculator or software for calculating the curve of a parabolic reflector?
Good luck, everybody.
-f4
Gabriel, I remember someone in this thread (maybe even more) tried the slide-projector but had problems with the heat and the lcd couldn't take it. Maybe you'll have better luck(?) though.
Or maybe you just could rip out the lenses and make box of yourself and use bigger lcd too. Assuming that the projection lens you have can swallow anything bigger than slide-size.?
I had hard time getting ohp at first but then there would have be more coming in that I could handle. I put "want-to-buy ohp" messages on the internet in bulletins where people buy and sell ****, put messages on magazines which are dedicated for people selling **** to each other (I don't know if you have those, we have two). And one I bought from "want-to-sell" message from this magazine. One way ís to call schools and buy one from there which I did the very first time when I tried the monitor->ohphead setup.
I'm telling this for "educational" purposes because used ohp:s are hard-to-find merchandise (if it's spelled correctly) but this is how I got some. Some of people here got them from ebay but I don't know anything about that.
If you're not intrested in ohp-kind of setup (which is ugly) the ohp lens can be used for standard-projector setup (as you all people might now, but cut me some slack. I'm just trying to give something instead of always asking things which I btw. rarely get answers to) and can handle big lcd too.
Forrest,
Most 20w (230v) cfl:s I've bumbed into are around 1000 lumens (they have ofcourse differences in the lumens), so you would get 3000 and condesing the light would get difficult. Although I have to say that I don't know/undestand anything about reflectors you people seem to be talking about but the ohp fresnels (I have) are made for point-light sources and it collects the light only from the right position, move it and inch or two and you don't get _anything_ on the screen (note that this might not be 100% accurate data cause the fresnels are not in the "best" condition), so with my setup other bulb would do absolutely nothing.
I haven't figured to ask this before: Are you other people using condenser lens having any similiar "problems"?
But as I said, when you talk about reflectors, I don't know what you are talking about. Would quess somesort of mirror thing behind the bulb, reflecting light back to the lcd and not using condenser at all? Please sort this out for me.
Anyway when I shooted my results photos I was supposed to shoot two images without the fresnel at all, one with the ohp bulb(point-light) and one with the 500w halogen worklight for "educational" purposes but I didn't have the time, I'll do this if I get the camera. If someone is able to do it before me the better. Especially LOA included as third one. Or was it that you people using LOAs are not using condenser? Well anyways..
Okay I think I'm done for now.
Or maybe you just could rip out the lenses and make box of yourself and use bigger lcd too. Assuming that the projection lens you have can swallow anything bigger than slide-size.?
I had hard time getting ohp at first but then there would have be more coming in that I could handle. I put "want-to-buy ohp" messages on the internet in bulletins where people buy and sell ****, put messages on magazines which are dedicated for people selling **** to each other (I don't know if you have those, we have two). And one I bought from "want-to-sell" message from this magazine. One way ís to call schools and buy one from there which I did the very first time when I tried the monitor->ohphead setup.
I'm telling this for "educational" purposes because used ohp:s are hard-to-find merchandise (if it's spelled correctly) but this is how I got some. Some of people here got them from ebay but I don't know anything about that.
If you're not intrested in ohp-kind of setup (which is ugly) the ohp lens can be used for standard-projector setup (as you all people might now, but cut me some slack. I'm just trying to give something instead of always asking things which I btw. rarely get answers to) and can handle big lcd too.
Forrest,
Most 20w (230v) cfl:s I've bumbed into are around 1000 lumens (they have ofcourse differences in the lumens), so you would get 3000 and condesing the light would get difficult. Although I have to say that I don't know/undestand anything about reflectors you people seem to be talking about but the ohp fresnels (I have) are made for point-light sources and it collects the light only from the right position, move it and inch or two and you don't get _anything_ on the screen (note that this might not be 100% accurate data cause the fresnels are not in the "best" condition), so with my setup other bulb would do absolutely nothing.
I haven't figured to ask this before: Are you other people using condenser lens having any similiar "problems"?
But as I said, when you talk about reflectors, I don't know what you are talking about. Would quess somesort of mirror thing behind the bulb, reflecting light back to the lcd and not using condenser at all? Please sort this out for me.
Anyway when I shooted my results photos I was supposed to shoot two images without the fresnel at all, one with the ohp bulb(point-light) and one with the 500w halogen worklight for "educational" purposes but I didn't have the time, I'll do this if I get the camera. If someone is able to do it before me the better. Especially LOA included as third one. Or was it that you people using LOAs are not using condenser? Well anyways..
Okay I think I'm done for now.
Okay here it comes: Can an heatsink be attached to fresnel lens (and most of all does it do any good 🙂 ) ?
Okay, I'm desperatly trying to think how to get the cooling in my box work better. Three 12x12cm (5 inch) fans should be enough!?
Here are two pics of my setup, one is the original "3d design" which looks quite much it, only lightsource is not in the bottom of the thing and there are not four of them. The other picture is the cooling setup right now. All the fans are located in the backwall of the thing.
Now, first of all, do you think the fan in the bottom is useless? Other thing is that should I also have a fan on top of the fresnel as well?
Any suggestions are welcome, even just your best shot, It'll be better than nothing.
Here are two pics of my setup, one is the original "3d design" which looks quite much it, only lightsource is not in the bottom of the thing and there are not four of them. The other picture is the cooling setup right now. All the fans are located in the backwall of the thing.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Now, first of all, do you think the fan in the bottom is useless? Other thing is that should I also have a fan on top of the fresnel as well?
Any suggestions are welcome, even just your best shot, It'll be better than nothing.
Somebody warned be about the ohp setup that heat goes up so is it like this:
my current setup all the heat goes to the fresnel and apparently the cooling isn't doing any good right now so only some heat is pulled of by the cooling. Heat is represented as red lines in my hardcore drawingskill pictures.
Anyway if I had standard setup would most of the heat go upwards to the "roof" of the thing and not too much to the fresnel? Or what?
I wish I had somesort of a "Predator view"🙂 device thing so I could see what's happening with the heat.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
my current setup all the heat goes to the fresnel and apparently the cooling isn't doing any good right now so only some heat is pulled of by the cooling. Heat is represented as red lines in my hardcore drawingskill pictures.
Anyway if I had standard setup would most of the heat go upwards to the "roof" of the thing and not too much to the fresnel? Or what?
I wish I had somesort of a "Predator view"🙂 device thing so I could see what's happening with the heat.
Hi Bitch,
I think the fan in the bottom will do much good. In one way or another you have to get air in to the box if you are trying to get air out of the box.
I believe this will give a more quiet solution. If you only had the two fans on the top, they would have to work harder to pull air in through the small openings around the door on the box. That would make much more noise.
I would suggest to try to lead the air from the fan in the bottom to the front of the lightsource. Maybe using tubes. Then there will be an even airflow that are passing the lightsource. See the pic added.
I think the fan in the bottom will do much good. In one way or another you have to get air in to the box if you are trying to get air out of the box.
I believe this will give a more quiet solution. If you only had the two fans on the top, they would have to work harder to pull air in through the small openings around the door on the box. That would make much more noise.
I would suggest to try to lead the air from the fan in the bottom to the front of the lightsource. Maybe using tubes. Then there will be an even airflow that are passing the lightsource. See the pic added.
Attachments
car headlamp
Hi all,
I have some idea about lamp, but I don't know it will work or not.
Last night I did some experiment using my car headlamp
(halogen 12volts/100watts), I projected transparancy picture with Delta 20 TV proj. lens (from Surplus Shed). It produce bright & sharp image on the screen (garage wall!) 20 ft away, even with some leaking light from the headlamp (I just put the lens and transp. picture in front of the headlamp with lamp in high beam position).
So I wonder if we can use this car lamp for our diy projector. All we need is powerfull transformer which can handle up to 200 watts load. (200W:12V=16,7A ~ 20 Amperes).
Some of us made this diy projector using OHP, which doesn't have enough light power.
OHP usually use 24-38 volts to light up the lamp with 250-300 watts of power.
My idea is using 2 - 100 t0 150 watts car halogen headlamps in series for 24 volts OHP (2x12volts=24volts),
or 3 for 38 volts OHP (3x12volts=36volts ~ 38volts).
With good reflector as good as car headlamp reflector, we can get very bright light.
Each car headlamp have 2 filaments: low beam and high beam, if we use both of them in parallel, we have extra lumens from 1 lamp, of course it will raise wattage of the lamp, make sure the OHP transformer can handle it.
Or for OHP with 24 volts we can use just 1 headlamp with low and high beam connected in series.
What do you think guys?
see you.
Hi all,
I have some idea about lamp, but I don't know it will work or not.
Last night I did some experiment using my car headlamp
(halogen 12volts/100watts), I projected transparancy picture with Delta 20 TV proj. lens (from Surplus Shed). It produce bright & sharp image on the screen (garage wall!) 20 ft away, even with some leaking light from the headlamp (I just put the lens and transp. picture in front of the headlamp with lamp in high beam position).
So I wonder if we can use this car lamp for our diy projector. All we need is powerfull transformer which can handle up to 200 watts load. (200W:12V=16,7A ~ 20 Amperes).
Some of us made this diy projector using OHP, which doesn't have enough light power.
OHP usually use 24-38 volts to light up the lamp with 250-300 watts of power.
My idea is using 2 - 100 t0 150 watts car halogen headlamps in series for 24 volts OHP (2x12volts=24volts),
or 3 for 38 volts OHP (3x12volts=36volts ~ 38volts).
With good reflector as good as car headlamp reflector, we can get very bright light.
Each car headlamp have 2 filaments: low beam and high beam, if we use both of them in parallel, we have extra lumens from 1 lamp, of course it will raise wattage of the lamp, make sure the OHP transformer can handle it.
Or for OHP with 24 volts we can use just 1 headlamp with low and high beam connected in series.
What do you think guys?
see you.
metal halide lamp
Just found this lamp:
MHN-TD 150 W, 12.100 lumens, CRI 85 , 4200 K
http://www.sathitavl.com/hid-lowattMetal.htm
http://www.seae.fr/catalogue/int/lampes/lampes_decharges.htm
Just found this lamp:
MHN-TD 150 W, 12.100 lumens, CRI 85 , 4200 K
http://www.sathitavl.com/hid-lowattMetal.htm
http://www.seae.fr/catalogue/int/lampes/lampes_decharges.htm
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