OHP Lens
ZARK
The lens I am useing is from an OHP, this is because I am useing a 6.73 in. x 5.1 in. (171 mm x 130 mm)LCD Panel. This panel is to big for the DELTA lenses.
SOJE
I am not sure of the video input on Zarks LCD panel, but the video input can make a huge difference percieved quality.
This is due to scaling,interlace and type of input signal. The difference in my projected image was dramatic between the old VCR I used and the new DVD player I am now useing. Granted the resolution is not that good but with the right input it could be as good as NTSC if not slightly better, which is 525 X 720 but only every other line is scanned in a sequence, where as in DVD all lines are scanned in sequence resulting in a much higher quality picture.
Good work all....
ZARK
The lens I am useing is from an OHP, this is because I am useing a 6.73 in. x 5.1 in. (171 mm x 130 mm)LCD Panel. This panel is to big for the DELTA lenses.
SOJE
I am not sure of the video input on Zarks LCD panel, but the video input can make a huge difference percieved quality.
This is due to scaling,interlace and type of input signal. The difference in my projected image was dramatic between the old VCR I used and the new DVD player I am now useing. Granted the resolution is not that good but with the right input it could be as good as NTSC if not slightly better, which is 525 X 720 but only every other line is scanned in a sequence, where as in DVD all lines are scanned in sequence resulting in a much higher quality picture.
Good work all....
Zark, do you think the quality is acceptable to watch w/ your diy projector all the time? I still don't know where to buy a LOA work light, I've been to walmart and homedepot. I live in Chicago, has anyone found a LOA light in Chicago?
LOA source
For those of you having trouble finding LOAs locally, you can contact them direct and order them (800-377-4545). They are a little more expensive ($34) than the ones found in local stores. Same lights though. Model # 6065.
For those of you having trouble finding LOAs locally, you can contact them direct and order them (800-377-4545). They are a little more expensive ($34) than the ones found in local stores. Same lights though. Model # 6065.
sorry, i didnt mean to imply that pureland supply was a good deal, just that their website had a decent database including actual bulb pictures and some basic stats that allows for a nice quick way to find bulbs. yeah, their prices definately arent the best and they've a very specific bulbs-only focus, AFAIK.
two concerns with reflectors. foremost, beam density. i'm still concerned about one other thing though. i'm not sure if the actual vectors of the beams coming off the reflector will allow them to be suitable for usage. just eyeballing my current projector with its mirror, it looks like the bulb is at (what i think is) the focal point of the reflector, meaning all the light that comes from the bulb just gets sent right back through the bulb itself, making it so its effectively coming from the bulb itself, i think.
if you look at a decent overhead projector, you'll notice there is a very very tight focus of light on the first lense that is overhead. this is because the fresnel takes light coming directly from the bulb and points it directly towards the lens, using as much of the lense surface as possible. if you ray trace backwards, the only light that's would ever hit the fresnel in the right way to get to the overhead lens, you'll see it all comes directly from the bulb. the purpose of light is clearly defined. so much so that the inside of the projector is coated in matte black since light that reflects around does no good to anyone in this setup.
i'm not sure if the reflectors of stage light bulbs will - as a general rule - maintain this. rays parallel to the original rays released by the bulb are likely either of little use or may actually work to white out the actual desired light.
the one exception is of course a setup which uses no light aiming fresnel. if you just have a stage lamp and an LCD in front of it, well, that might work just perfectly. i'm planning on researching high efficiency stage lights soon. i'm trying to find a slightly heavier dutier version of those uber-efficient short-arc 150 watt bulbs, which would be perfect.
two concerns with reflectors. foremost, beam density. i'm still concerned about one other thing though. i'm not sure if the actual vectors of the beams coming off the reflector will allow them to be suitable for usage. just eyeballing my current projector with its mirror, it looks like the bulb is at (what i think is) the focal point of the reflector, meaning all the light that comes from the bulb just gets sent right back through the bulb itself, making it so its effectively coming from the bulb itself, i think.
if you look at a decent overhead projector, you'll notice there is a very very tight focus of light on the first lense that is overhead. this is because the fresnel takes light coming directly from the bulb and points it directly towards the lens, using as much of the lense surface as possible. if you ray trace backwards, the only light that's would ever hit the fresnel in the right way to get to the overhead lens, you'll see it all comes directly from the bulb. the purpose of light is clearly defined. so much so that the inside of the projector is coated in matte black since light that reflects around does no good to anyone in this setup.
i'm not sure if the reflectors of stage light bulbs will - as a general rule - maintain this. rays parallel to the original rays released by the bulb are likely either of little use or may actually work to white out the actual desired light.
the one exception is of course a setup which uses no light aiming fresnel. if you just have a stage lamp and an LCD in front of it, well, that might work just perfectly. i'm planning on researching high efficiency stage lights soon. i'm trying to find a slightly heavier dutier version of those uber-efficient short-arc 150 watt bulbs, which would be perfect.
i spent a while and looked through a whole lot of bulbs. listed and crosslinked some of the bulbs i thought were decent. cheaper prices are available than whats listed. should be near the top of page 43 in a comment to axeman (which really applies to everyone). use google for better prices, which are easily findable. $12 for a lot of those 500 hour bulbs is not easy but definately not impossible.
screen door effect can be minimized. often times panels will list pixel size. do the math. if you've got 1024 pixels across a 12 inch length, ideally your pixel length would be 1024 / 12 equalling 0.011718 inches. just compare between ideal and actual to make sure there isnt too much distance between pixels. if your curious, call the manufacturer, they'll tell you, they have the specs on file. shop around, keep looking. some are noticably better than others.
my viewsonics pretty good. then again, its not being expanded nearly as much as the 5 inch ones since it starts out bigger, so it sort of is comparing apples to oranges.
zark had a good point about costs. preplan what you want and how much it'll cost to get it. i'm spending almost $400 in the end, and while i'll have a huge image at 1024x768, i'm not sure if i feel comfortable spending quite so much or if that was quite necessary (do i really need this). the 8-track to THX compatible system complex, as soje said. mainly reserved right now because i've got a busted LCD being shipped back to viewsonic right now. =/ just a note.
just take that as a reality check though. keep going. run free. image alone, size aside, i'd honestly say my system is on par with at least a $5000 projector. seriously. its putting out at least 2000 lumens to the screen (10% bulb lumen rating, which is decent estimate considering the nice reflector setup its got), all at 1024 x 768. Anyone know the full res of 1080i and 720p? I'd love to claim HDTV compatibiltiy.
personally, i'm aiming for about a 45,000 to 55,000 lumen bulb in my final incarnation. if your gonna do it, do it right damn it. i'd like to be able to use this to setup not to setup a home theater, but to setup a theater that happens to be my house. its overkill, but at most it'll be $1000 bucks (most of which would be shelled out for the 1600x1200 (or better maybe) LCD panel). what really excites me though is getting this down to the point where i can produce a relatively low cost system and just drop in any given LCD panel, making the cost entirely dependent on what resolution you feel like going for.
sure, its bulky as **** compared to a normal projector, but man does it ever rock.
keep dreaming
keep working
myren
screen door effect can be minimized. often times panels will list pixel size. do the math. if you've got 1024 pixels across a 12 inch length, ideally your pixel length would be 1024 / 12 equalling 0.011718 inches. just compare between ideal and actual to make sure there isnt too much distance between pixels. if your curious, call the manufacturer, they'll tell you, they have the specs on file. shop around, keep looking. some are noticably better than others.
my viewsonics pretty good. then again, its not being expanded nearly as much as the 5 inch ones since it starts out bigger, so it sort of is comparing apples to oranges.
zark had a good point about costs. preplan what you want and how much it'll cost to get it. i'm spending almost $400 in the end, and while i'll have a huge image at 1024x768, i'm not sure if i feel comfortable spending quite so much or if that was quite necessary (do i really need this). the 8-track to THX compatible system complex, as soje said. mainly reserved right now because i've got a busted LCD being shipped back to viewsonic right now. =/ just a note.
just take that as a reality check though. keep going. run free. image alone, size aside, i'd honestly say my system is on par with at least a $5000 projector. seriously. its putting out at least 2000 lumens to the screen (10% bulb lumen rating, which is decent estimate considering the nice reflector setup its got), all at 1024 x 768. Anyone know the full res of 1080i and 720p? I'd love to claim HDTV compatibiltiy.
personally, i'm aiming for about a 45,000 to 55,000 lumen bulb in my final incarnation. if your gonna do it, do it right damn it. i'd like to be able to use this to setup not to setup a home theater, but to setup a theater that happens to be my house. its overkill, but at most it'll be $1000 bucks (most of which would be shelled out for the 1600x1200 (or better maybe) LCD panel). what really excites me though is getting this down to the point where i can produce a relatively low cost system and just drop in any given LCD panel, making the cost entirely dependent on what resolution you feel like going for.
sure, its bulky as **** compared to a normal projector, but man does it ever rock.
keep dreaming
keep working
myren
Nice work, zark! I'm really impressed...the picture quality seems to e much better than I expected. I know you said in your post that you would post a description, but the specific questions I have are:
What size is the projected image? Could you post an image with a reference to give some perspective?
Are the colors ok with your LCD?
Which LCD are you using, and did you have any trouble with the backing/wiring?
About how far away is your projector from the screen to produce a given size projection? Are you using a commercial projection "screen"?
What are your opinions on extended viewing?
B***h,
I looked at your website when you originally posted your pics, and I guess I just had a hard time evaluating what you have made. Please don't take this the wrong way! You CERTAINLY have made more progress than I have. Some of the pics looked blurry, and in the last pic (which I think was your best one as far as image quality goes), there was a chair blocking the bottom portion of the projected image. Do you have any other pics of your setup? On your third picture, the thing you have labeled as your LCD looks like a 13" TV. Do you have any projected movie images? It looks like you have a great setup, and I'm sure that many of us would like to see what it can do. Sorry if it sounds like I'm complaining...I'm not! I am just curious to see more of what you've done. Thanks!
Keep those pics coming!
Thanks for all your help, and congrats again. I'm really inspired now...
-f4
What size is the projected image? Could you post an image with a reference to give some perspective?
Are the colors ok with your LCD?
Which LCD are you using, and did you have any trouble with the backing/wiring?
About how far away is your projector from the screen to produce a given size projection? Are you using a commercial projection "screen"?
What are your opinions on extended viewing?
B***h,
I looked at your website when you originally posted your pics, and I guess I just had a hard time evaluating what you have made. Please don't take this the wrong way! You CERTAINLY have made more progress than I have. Some of the pics looked blurry, and in the last pic (which I think was your best one as far as image quality goes), there was a chair blocking the bottom portion of the projected image. Do you have any other pics of your setup? On your third picture, the thing you have labeled as your LCD looks like a 13" TV. Do you have any projected movie images? It looks like you have a great setup, and I'm sure that many of us would like to see what it can do. Sorry if it sounds like I'm complaining...I'm not! I am just curious to see more of what you've done. Thanks!
Keep those pics coming!
Thanks for all your help, and congrats again. I'm really inspired now...
-f4
warning: these pictures are freaking huge and taken with a really really shitty lighting. will post better soon. but i'm impatient, so heres these now for anyone who doesnt mind crap.
projector itself, with blower fan on back and custom built patent pending myren airflow system. 😀 using 5/16'ths bolts to hold on the blower on the back. doesnt show the 120mm aluminum panaflo L1 i've got on the other side for main area cooling. dead silence. =]
pic 1
notice the strips along the side, it makes sure the air flows all the way down the length of the LCD, which is notably and sadly absent. *sigh* its gonna take forever to get the replacement.
pic 2
the airflow thing is cardboard and hot glue. but its airtight, so whatever. final version will hopefully be moldel plastic, just as i'm hopefully building my own custom case for everything.
pic 3
me standing next to the edge of my screen. and next to my beloved rectilinear IIIb's. theres a smoke detector underneath the screen which cant be helped right now thats causing all that nastified wrinkling in the screen.
pic 4
projector itself, with blower fan on back and custom built patent pending myren airflow system. 😀 using 5/16'ths bolts to hold on the blower on the back. doesnt show the 120mm aluminum panaflo L1 i've got on the other side for main area cooling. dead silence. =]
pic 1
notice the strips along the side, it makes sure the air flows all the way down the length of the LCD, which is notably and sadly absent. *sigh* its gonna take forever to get the replacement.
pic 2
the airflow thing is cardboard and hot glue. but its airtight, so whatever. final version will hopefully be moldel plastic, just as i'm hopefully building my own custom case for everything.
pic 3
me standing next to the edge of my screen. and next to my beloved rectilinear IIIb's. theres a smoke detector underneath the screen which cant be helped right now thats causing all that nastified wrinkling in the screen.
pic 4
Myren-
HDTV:
720p - 1280x720 pixels progressive
1080i - 1920x1080 pixels interlaced
At 1024x768 one can't quite do it- but with a DTV tuner card in your computer it'll STILL look a whole helluva lot better than on standard TV/S-video/etc. 😎
I'm debating what to do right now. I have my low-res screen setup, but rather than go any further I want to get an overhead projector simply because the optics are already taken care of. How much was your OHP Myren ? The plan is to get a cheap 2nd 3rd of 4th hand OHP, rip out the lamp, and stick in 22,000 lumens worth of halogen. My one concern with that is directing as much of the light as possible perpendicular to the fresnel so that, as Myren mentioned, there isn't scattered light to reduce the overall contrast of the picture.
Going to the local Army surplus store on Saturday to see what I can find there for an OHP. IF I get an... "interesting" one, I'll take some photos. 😀
Until next time...
HDTV:
720p - 1280x720 pixels progressive
1080i - 1920x1080 pixels interlaced
At 1024x768 one can't quite do it- but with a DTV tuner card in your computer it'll STILL look a whole helluva lot better than on standard TV/S-video/etc. 😎
I'm debating what to do right now. I have my low-res screen setup, but rather than go any further I want to get an overhead projector simply because the optics are already taken care of. How much was your OHP Myren ? The plan is to get a cheap 2nd 3rd of 4th hand OHP, rip out the lamp, and stick in 22,000 lumens worth of halogen. My one concern with that is directing as much of the light as possible perpendicular to the fresnel so that, as Myren mentioned, there isn't scattered light to reduce the overall contrast of the picture.
Going to the local Army surplus store on Saturday to see what I can find there for an OHP. IF I get an... "interesting" one, I'll take some photos. 😀
Until next time...
i just found this projector and i'm vaguely - for lack of anything else - using it for reference. the local k-town audioshop actually has a demo unit, and they've always been interested in my DIY stuff. i'm hoping for a side by side comparison.
i'm gonna use that one sort of as a benchmark if the audio shop doesnt mind. see how close i can get or see if i can surpass eventually.
i'm so jealous. 3700 lumen output (not bulb brightness) for 230 watts. 2000 hours. Got to get me one of the UHE's. gratuitous corporate spending and corporate apathy might be able to land me one if i try.
that systems 37 dB, which is a bit much in my book. My blower is probably around 37 dB, but with the rubber washers and the sound insulator i put around it, the things pretty much silent. the panaflo is not but the faint whisper of 80 cfm air, dead silence from the unit itself. go panaflo.
Oh, intersting note. their system - even though it aint using no dinky backlight - only uses a 400:1 contrast ratio, which you can actually get with commercial panels available now. My vg150's panel is 350:1.
i'm gonna use that one sort of as a benchmark if the audio shop doesnt mind. see how close i can get or see if i can surpass eventually.
i'm so jealous. 3700 lumen output (not bulb brightness) for 230 watts. 2000 hours. Got to get me one of the UHE's. gratuitous corporate spending and corporate apathy might be able to land me one if i try.
that systems 37 dB, which is a bit much in my book. My blower is probably around 37 dB, but with the rubber washers and the sound insulator i put around it, the things pretty much silent. the panaflo is not but the faint whisper of 80 cfm air, dead silence from the unit itself. go panaflo.
Oh, intersting note. their system - even though it aint using no dinky backlight - only uses a 400:1 contrast ratio, which you can actually get with commercial panels available now. My vg150's panel is 350:1.
Myren, compared to a commercial projector? I think it'll be a joke to bring a diy projector to a store and compare them to their $8000 projectors.
Overhead projector: $38 + $20 shipping. ebay. ebay rocks. i skipped past the new fangled **** and went straight for an old Bell and Howell 388a. Its pretty much a black metal box with a concave mirror and a fresnel built in. And some optics up top. With a big ****ing bulb that uses a lot of power. But it does its job. puts a lot of light exactly where it needs to do. And you can market it as a home heating system too! as far as i can tell, theres no reason to go with those Dukane's or 3M's that sell for $150.
axeman, your plan sounds perfect with me. i'd recommend buying something that uses metal halide out of the box, that way the fresnel wont melt itself apart with a furnace of 22,000 beautiful lumens alight under it. check ebay if you dont find anything suitable.
public apology for the information glut / spam. i've been doing a huge amount of brainstorming and work on this recently since i lack the LCD of Appeasement (-15 to motivation).
i'm gonna try and prop the system i've been playing with in my head and on paper to a hardcore family friend and extremely hardcore inventor bretheren. i'd like to go down to his workshop and build three of em.
he probably wouldnt have much use for any of them personally, but he builds museum exhibits and he could market the uber-version to a museum as a central public display system for probably well over 10,000$. And he'd probably love the plan itself, he's the sort of guy who loves doing crazy **** like this.
But ah, thats in part because we'd be using the $4000 uber-LCD panels (that my wet dreams are made of) along with a whole bunch of the other dreams version 2.0 is built of (heavy microcontroller automation all around). In the end, we'd spend probably $4500 - $4800 per system, but with three of them the profit margin would be good enough so that my uncle could make a little dough and i'd get the third Mark I. and besides, doing a project like this would be a vacation for me and him. 🙂
axeman: guess i'll just have to start turning those dreams into realities. Maybe one day i'll get that uber-lcd.
axeman, your plan sounds perfect with me. i'd recommend buying something that uses metal halide out of the box, that way the fresnel wont melt itself apart with a furnace of 22,000 beautiful lumens alight under it. check ebay if you dont find anything suitable.
public apology for the information glut / spam. i've been doing a huge amount of brainstorming and work on this recently since i lack the LCD of Appeasement (-15 to motivation).
i'm gonna try and prop the system i've been playing with in my head and on paper to a hardcore family friend and extremely hardcore inventor bretheren. i'd like to go down to his workshop and build three of em.
he probably wouldnt have much use for any of them personally, but he builds museum exhibits and he could market the uber-version to a museum as a central public display system for probably well over 10,000$. And he'd probably love the plan itself, he's the sort of guy who loves doing crazy **** like this.
But ah, thats in part because we'd be using the $4000 uber-LCD panels (that my wet dreams are made of) along with a whole bunch of the other dreams version 2.0 is built of (heavy microcontroller automation all around). In the end, we'd spend probably $4500 - $4800 per system, but with three of them the profit margin would be good enough so that my uncle could make a little dough and i'd get the third Mark I. and besides, doing a project like this would be a vacation for me and him. 🙂
axeman: guess i'll just have to start turning those dreams into realities. Maybe one day i'll get that uber-lcd.
Okay, emailed some places to point me a suitable bulb. I'll see how it goes.
I think I might have asked this before but are there consender lenses that could stand more heat? made from glass maybe or something?
I suppose no one has experience on cold mirrors? I have spend hours for finding source to buy one with no results.
Fender: the "LCD" in the picture is actually less than 13" tv, I don't know what it is but it's b&w though🙂. I didn't have great deal of time taking the pics. The blurriness is about the camera, look at the tv in the first results picture (or actually the second).
I don't have any more (useful) pictures, if I would have camera of my own I would take some. I'm not just sure if pics are able to tell everything no matter how good they would work out but atleast it's some reference and you'll now atleast it's doable. And you can somewhat see the brightness which is quite acceptable in the pics. I can't really say about anything about image quality. I'm completely satisfied with it right now but as you can see in the pics, my wall has some serious patternshit in it so it does somewhat mess up the image. There is same sort of effect in my projection screen (not as bad though), but if and when I get a proper plain white projection screen with no any reflectionshit or such I might start noticing errors from the projector itself, such as screendoor effect but now I'm not able to detect such things.
I think I might have asked this before but are there consender lenses that could stand more heat? made from glass maybe or something?
I suppose no one has experience on cold mirrors? I have spend hours for finding source to buy one with no results.
Fender: the "LCD" in the picture is actually less than 13" tv, I don't know what it is but it's b&w though🙂. I didn't have great deal of time taking the pics. The blurriness is about the camera, look at the tv in the first results picture (or actually the second).
I don't have any more (useful) pictures, if I would have camera of my own I would take some. I'm not just sure if pics are able to tell everything no matter how good they would work out but atleast it's some reference and you'll now atleast it's doable. And you can somewhat see the brightness which is quite acceptable in the pics. I can't really say about anything about image quality. I'm completely satisfied with it right now but as you can see in the pics, my wall has some serious patternshit in it so it does somewhat mess up the image. There is same sort of effect in my projection screen (not as bad though), but if and when I get a proper plain white projection screen with no any reflectionshit or such I might start noticing errors from the projector itself, such as screendoor effect but now I'm not able to detect such things.
LOA alternative?
Looks like 10 LOA's for a cool 50,000 lumens is possible!
http://www.ace-ballast.com/
Looks like 10 LOA's for a cool 50,000 lumens is possible!
http://www.ace-ballast.com/
screen materials
Hello,
I work for a company that makes protective sleeves and binders for optical discs. We have a material that is welded into our sleeves that rides against the information side of a disc to keep it away from scratches and stuff. The exact material that we use is pateneted by us, but a similar material can be found. Ita a woven polyester material that is laminated to a vinyl backing. Dupont has a material called "Sontara" that is just like it. Its very white and slightly pearlescent. It reflects a lot of light and unless you are using the sun, it doesn't hot-spot. It also comes in different colors like the stuff that we use. I've been able to take some pretty big samples of it home to see how it looks. I've got white and black material, and different textures and shades of black vinyl. Since it comes to us in roll form, I can sheet off some pieces big enough to cover my 6'X3' screen(I always watch movies in the dark and they are almost always widescreen so I came in pretty close to the 1.85:1 aspect ratio), but I was only allowed to take so much.
This weekend(I work 4 tens so I get 3-day weekends), I'm going to do some comparisons with all of my samples and get back to you guys with the results. I'm also going to see if any of the companies that provide these materials will ship samples big enough for our needs, or if I can get enough for myself that I might send to some of you. If it gets wrinkled or creased, a hairdryer on low heat for a couple of seconds will flatten it right out.
Thanks,
Joel
Hello,
I work for a company that makes protective sleeves and binders for optical discs. We have a material that is welded into our sleeves that rides against the information side of a disc to keep it away from scratches and stuff. The exact material that we use is pateneted by us, but a similar material can be found. Ita a woven polyester material that is laminated to a vinyl backing. Dupont has a material called "Sontara" that is just like it. Its very white and slightly pearlescent. It reflects a lot of light and unless you are using the sun, it doesn't hot-spot. It also comes in different colors like the stuff that we use. I've been able to take some pretty big samples of it home to see how it looks. I've got white and black material, and different textures and shades of black vinyl. Since it comes to us in roll form, I can sheet off some pieces big enough to cover my 6'X3' screen(I always watch movies in the dark and they are almost always widescreen so I came in pretty close to the 1.85:1 aspect ratio), but I was only allowed to take so much.
This weekend(I work 4 tens so I get 3-day weekends), I'm going to do some comparisons with all of my samples and get back to you guys with the results. I'm also going to see if any of the companies that provide these materials will ship samples big enough for our needs, or if I can get enough for myself that I might send to some of you. If it gets wrinkled or creased, a hairdryer on low heat for a couple of seconds will flatten it right out.
Thanks,
Joel
Hey ZARK...
The 5" LCD that you're using is 960 x 234 right?
Well I'm having trouble finding a source to buy a higher resolution LCD, but have seen a second hand panel for a car the size and resolution the same as yours...
I'll only be using my projector for watching movies and never for a computer @ a size of about 50 - 70 inches (diagonal)
just wondering what your view was about the actual watchable quality....
FANTASTIC going by the way, it's great when people post photo's of their work in progress, it really helps boost confidence in the fact that this can be done for a reasonable amount of cash....
Helps keep spirits high....
Thanks
🙂
The 5" LCD that you're using is 960 x 234 right?
Well I'm having trouble finding a source to buy a higher resolution LCD, but have seen a second hand panel for a car the size and resolution the same as yours...
I'll only be using my projector for watching movies and never for a computer @ a size of about 50 - 70 inches (diagonal)
just wondering what your view was about the actual watchable quality....
FANTASTIC going by the way, it's great when people post photo's of their work in progress, it really helps boost confidence in the fact that this can be done for a reasonable amount of cash....
Helps keep spirits high....
Thanks
🙂
Type-E: yeah, right now the DIY form is that of duct tape and cardboard. some of these systems may not look like much, but that just doesnt change the fact that they can make some pretty amazing things to look at. we've made ourselves functional pieces, not ellegant pieces.
yeah, going into a store with a homebuilt projector would be a joke. the local audioshop i have in mind might actually appreciate it though, for the amused comedic value of it. it is quite silly how our tin can creations can make such amazing images.
if you take the time to really think about we've done its quite amazing. i never dreamt i'd be the owner of a system capable of lighting up a wall with widescreen grand theft auto 3. i'm sure others have felt the same exhileration as similar movies and games flew onto their screens. we've built ourselves systems that so far has been costsing us about 1/10 the price of the real deal.
good image quality does exist. i feel really bad cause i keep ranting and ranting, but i still havent gotten any real pictures up yet. i dont know how else to preach it: you just gotta see it. theres no way around it.
yeah, going into a store with a homebuilt projector would be a joke. the local audioshop i have in mind might actually appreciate it though, for the amused comedic value of it. it is quite silly how our tin can creations can make such amazing images.
if you take the time to really think about we've done its quite amazing. i never dreamt i'd be the owner of a system capable of lighting up a wall with widescreen grand theft auto 3. i'm sure others have felt the same exhileration as similar movies and games flew onto their screens. we've built ourselves systems that so far has been costsing us about 1/10 the price of the real deal.
good image quality does exist. i feel really bad cause i keep ranting and ranting, but i still havent gotten any real pictures up yet. i dont know how else to preach it: you just gotta see it. theres no way around it.
This goes out to anyone with any clue on how this can be done....
I know it's a bit of a nuisance to take an LCD from a laptop and hook it up to a video source from say a DVD player, but is it reasonably possible to use a laptop LCD and hook it up to a VGA source?
I'm just kinda getting desperate for an LCD, they're not exactly cheap over here in the UK....
...on another note, I went into my local light store to see about CFL's @ a high wattage and the guy pretty much laughed in my face and called me a liar saying that CFL's at 50 - 65w were probably only available if they were custom made....i couldn't argue with him...still, the search goes on
I just want to throw something together now, just so my mates and girlfriend will stop looking at me as though I'm daft when I speak about this project.
Anway...keep it going
Cheers
F. 😀
I know it's a bit of a nuisance to take an LCD from a laptop and hook it up to a video source from say a DVD player, but is it reasonably possible to use a laptop LCD and hook it up to a VGA source?
I'm just kinda getting desperate for an LCD, they're not exactly cheap over here in the UK....
...on another note, I went into my local light store to see about CFL's @ a high wattage and the guy pretty much laughed in my face and called me a liar saying that CFL's at 50 - 65w were probably only available if they were custom made....i couldn't argue with him...still, the search goes on
I just want to throw something together now, just so my mates and girlfriend will stop looking at me as though I'm daft when I speak about this project.
Anway...keep it going
Cheers
F. 😀
Hello,
I know everyone was trying to avoid convergence issues, but here's an idea. Maybe we could find two LCD screens that were the same size with the same resolution but with different pixel configurations. That way, when they were projected to the same spot, the pixels on one screen would cover up the spaces between the pixels on the other. Most screens have a square grid pattern, but i've seen a few where the pixels were arranged like a honycomb. I think one of the little 4" screens from Parts Express is like the latter.
Thanks,
Joel
I know everyone was trying to avoid convergence issues, but here's an idea. Maybe we could find two LCD screens that were the same size with the same resolution but with different pixel configurations. That way, when they were projected to the same spot, the pixels on one screen would cover up the spaces between the pixels on the other. Most screens have a square grid pattern, but i've seen a few where the pixels were arranged like a honycomb. I think one of the little 4" screens from Parts Express is like the latter.
Thanks,
Joel
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