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DIY TDA1541A PCB "D3"

Would you like a through hole version of the D3?

  • Yes

    Votes: 12 52.2%
  • Maybe, depends on the performance

    Votes: 11 47.8%

  • Total voters
    23
  • Poll closed .
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Joined 2012
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I just checked the schematics. DLeft is I2S data.

Do you have another I2S input dac to check the Singer?

If not, and if all three of your Singer, Simultaneous board, and D3 are not proven to be in working order, then it would be tough to determine what is not working.

Without an oscilloscope, I suppose you can check the Singer by checking for voltage out of the I2S pins.

For your D3, you can check that you are getting the correct voltages to the power pins on the TDA1541A. Check the schematics for the power pins and voltages on the TDA.

I see that Ryan's schematic does not show -15V on pin 15 of the TDA, but that is where it is at. 26 is -5V and 28 is +5V.
 
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Ben / Ryan,

Okay, I found a voltage problem: Pin 28 on the dac socket only reads ~2.85v, not 5!

Pin 26 is exactly -5.01v. Also, pin 27 is at -5.0v1, this pin sets the data input.

Questions:

1. What should pin 27 voltage and polarity be? did I damage my chip with my messed up vreg on pin 28. I'm thinking since it's low, probably not?)

2. How do I get pin 28 up to 5v from 2.8v?

3. I'm measuring chip socket voltages with the chip out, is this correct? Or should the chip be installed for proper voltage readings due to load?

Cheers!

Greg
 
Ben / Ryan,

Looks like I overvolted my chip at pin 15. I'm measuring -20vdc!!! With a max -vdd2 of 16. Probably blown.

Cheers,

Greg

Hi Greg,

How did you get such high voltages? Hopefully your chip is ok.

Normally when im testing the board I use dummy loads.

Lately the first thing I solder on the D3 board is the minimum amount of parts to get the 3 supplies working, so if there is something wrong there aren't many parts the check/replace/reflow.

Solder these first, then test -
X1, X2, X3, C5, C13, C21,
R19, R20, R18, R24, R23, R25, R28, R30, R27, R29, R21, R17, R16
Q3, Q2, Q1, CC1, V1, R22.

Once these parts are in place I place the dummy load into the dip-28 socket holes and then power it up. If all is well your current should be around 135mA. If I have an issue I usually inspect all the solder joints. Then I re-flow the suspect joints using a little bit of flux.

Without the caps in place the supply voltages wont be accurate or stable but they should be close enough to verify operation.

Since I've started using this method my success rate of the circuit working first go is much better.

One other issue I've noticed that comes up sometimes is some fluxes need to be thoroughly cleaned off before testing or they affect the operation of the circuit.
 
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I would be re-flowing the solder joints with some flux on x1, x2, and x3 first. Then do the same for all the surrounding resistors. Save your 1541 and use dummy loads.

One other issue i've come across a few times is that if you overheat the polycaps when soldering they can leak much more current and they heat up. Sometimes they pull enough current to pull the voltage low.

With a high voltage on pin 15 i'd say the voltage reference isn't accurate for the TL431. Most likely a bad solder joint.

Also check the legs on all the PNPs (Q3...)
 
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Ryan,

Nothing looks dry. Just went over everything with a high power magnified loop. Also, re-cleaned the board.

When the board is cold, voltages are correct for -15 and +5. Then voltages drift very quickly (low for the +5, high for the -15 and good on the -5). So, maybe I over heated x-1, 2, 3?