I'm having "Nimitz" and the filter PCB's made, should arrive in two weeks. Nimitz uses the daughter cards I built for the M2X, since I only use one set at a time for the M2X,might as well use them for the VFET N channel amp.
I'm having 10 Nimitz boards made, did you build the M2x? If so, I'll send you a pair of Nimitz boards for the FE, when they arrive.
Speakers?
I have acquired many of the years, but mostly all are vintage now.
All of them are in excellent condition regarding their functionality and a few have been upgraded with like kind specifications with higher quality replacement components in the crossovers. (with the exception of the M&K, NHT and the PSB speakers as they are functioning great and still retain their stock components)
I currently use the JBL's, Polk SDA 2 and Maggies for my main 2 channel listening powered by a Nakamichi PA-5, Adcom GFA 555 amp with the Korg B1 in my finished basement. I have the M&K 5.1 home theater in living room, and the master bedroom has the NHT 1.5 with a NAD integrated and Yamaha sub.
JBL L-7
Miller & Kreisel M&K S-100 with a MX-125 sub and a pair of Defintive Pro Cinema for rear channels
NHT 1.1 Bookshelves (not being used)
NHT 1.5 Bookshelves
NHT Super 2 Bookshelves (not being used)
PSB Image B25 Monitors (not being used)
Polk Monitor 10's (not being used)
Polk SDA 1a (not being used)
Polk SDA 2
Magnapan Magneplanar MG1
Keep an eye on the swap meet. With all the mix and match front end cards, makers building multiple front ends, and general chaos in tweaking the circuits of each type of VFET, you’re likely to find the surplus front end of your choice eventually.
Also, register your interest in the Pass front end card with the store. As one of the simpler designs, it’s likely to be less expensive to build.
Also, register your interest in the Pass front end card with the store. As one of the simpler designs, it’s likely to be less expensive to build.
I realize that the costs of some of the approaches to this can get daunting, which is why the base kit has been offered very close to cost.
After that, you understand that the cost of the switching supply is reasonable and you can get chunks of metal that will serve as fine heat sinks until you can justify a snazzy chassis and pick your favorite front end and supply filters.
And lets look at realistically - what do you pay retail for high end amplification with these rare qualities? Comparable FW product would run you $4k or so. Even if you have to buy the VFETS off Ebay, I calculate you can baseline this sound for about $300 with the option of spending a bit more later.
And I will come out with another (cheap) front end soon enough...
🙂
After that, you understand that the cost of the switching supply is reasonable and you can get chunks of metal that will serve as fine heat sinks until you can justify a snazzy chassis and pick your favorite front end and supply filters.
And lets look at realistically - what do you pay retail for high end amplification with these rare qualities? Comparable FW product would run you $4k or so. Even if you have to buy the VFETS off Ebay, I calculate you can baseline this sound for about $300 with the option of spending a bit more later.
And I will come out with another (cheap) front end soon enough...
🙂
I have a couple extra of the M2X boards you could have for free. Drop me a PM.Hi Elwood,
No I didn't build an M2x, but thank you so much for the kind offer...
Also, it's a very easy matter to drill and tap heatsinks - don't need them pre-drilled. can drill with hand drill (carefully, the bit is small) and tap by hand with tap wrench and tapered tap (4-40 or M3, your choice)
Many speakers indeed... you can't listen to them all at the same time, and some might be more suited than others for the VFET regardless the FE discussion...
It is really a nice sounding amp and from a pure consumer VFM POV I do back up the comparative price bracket mentioned here
It is really a nice sounding amp and from a pure consumer VFM POV I do back up the comparative price bracket mentioned here
Completely understood Mr. Pass and I really do appreciate your knowledge and the sharing of your designs with the DIY community here.I realize that the costs of some of the approaches to this can get daunting, which is why the base kit has been offered very close to cost.
After that, you understand that the cost of the switching supply is reasonable and you can get chunks of metal that will serve as fine heat sinks until you can justify a snazzy chassis and pick your favorite front end and supply filters.
And lets look at realistically - what do you pay retail for high end amplification with these rare qualities? Comparable FW product would run you $4k or so. Even if you have to buy the VFETS off Ebay, I calculate you can baseline this sound for about $300 with the option of spending a bit more later.
And I will come out with another (cheap) front end soon enough...
🙂
Not to make an issue out of this, but we are under the strain of a missing 2nd income and have two children now attending college full time.
The "BIG" chunks of metal for heat sinks comment had me thinking about dismantling some part of my car (maybe both doors) to not only improve it's fuel efficiency, but to make me an inexpensive pair of
heat sinks.... 😊
Hi guys,
Am I understanding that these M2X boards---> (the Nimitz) as Elwood has offered are capable of being used for the FE boards with the two Sony 2SJ28 Vfets which I'm told are P channel?
Yes Claude, maybe too many, but I acquired most them brand new over the years and none of them are truly audiophile compared to what's available today.
Yes, read Mark Johnson post about FE choices.
ship-of-theseus-compatible-interchangeable-amplifier-modules
Oooh! Spoiler alert? Is this, by any chance, something for the prima donna Tokin parts?And I will come out with another (cheap) front end soon enough...
🙂
Benji, I have some heatsinks that I’m happy to send to you. Send me a PM.
Thanks, that's good to know. Since class A amplifier generate a lot of heat, I wanted to be sure that the enclosure would dissipate it without impairing the reliability of the circuit.
By the way, I really like the idea of the multiple front end cards. The idea is not new, but are taking to a whole different level here !
Thanks to all who dedicated time on these project !
Thanks Elwood,
If I was to take you up on your very generous offer for the Nimitz FE boards, it would just be a matter of sourcing and populating it with the correct BOM parts.
Hi Ra7,
If I don't go with the DIY store Vfet chassis I will be very grateful and would thankful to accept your kind offer.
Hi Mark,
From my casual understanding of your "Ship Of Theseus" boards it appears that all of them do require some form of an Edcor 1:5 step up style transformer, and the high quality (genuine) Jfets.
The Jfets need to be matched with the accompanying resistors?
Also you mention: "A super low cost front end probably eliminates one or both of these."
Is there anything specific you could point out for me or are we talking about the lower priced Bulwark being offered at the store?
Kind regards, to everybody here.
I'm very much appreciative of all the helpful responses and the open generosity from all the fine members here on the DIY forum.
If you are planning to create a brand new, never before seen, front end card design from scratch, and if you are aiming for incredibly low cost, then post #235 might be worth thinking about. Otherwise, choose from the menu of existing options available here.
As I was trying to keep the price tab down in order to go with one of the DIY FE boards.
I stumbled upon a power supply from PartsExpress that's on sale now and it appears to be suitable option with the exception of the 2.5 x 5.5mm Center Positive (+) Plug.
Anybody here see any reason why this be a problem as opposed to the one the DIY store has with the R7B 4-Pin DIN output jack.
https://www.parts-express.com/Mean-...pter-with-2.5-x-5.5mm-Center-Positive-129-225
I stumbled upon a power supply from PartsExpress that's on sale now and it appears to be suitable option with the exception of the 2.5 x 5.5mm Center Positive (+) Plug.
Anybody here see any reason why this be a problem as opposed to the one the DIY store has with the R7B 4-Pin DIN output jack.
https://www.parts-express.com/Mean-...pter-with-2.5-x-5.5mm-Center-Positive-129-225
Attachments
