Bah, all comments from hyper stimulated follicular mentum, are heretofore suspect. 
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One thing I will put out there is I have no great love of spades, they can work well, but I have had failures, and it's always been the crimp didn't hold the wire properly. 2nd, wasn't crimped right, or terminators that sucked. Both can be overcome with a bit of solder. If I use them at all now, they are all soldered. Also, I always check the tension male to female and esp if I have had to add and remove a few times for whatever reason. I go back and close the gap on the female and check tension for the final assembly.
Bottom line is I just dont trust the fkrs.
JT
Bottom line is I just dont trust the fkrs.
JT
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I agree, mine will be soldered for sure with heat shrink, the spade connectors will go in the bin.
I bought a few 100's of quality Faston connectors, and invested in a proper crimping tool.
Works very well and holds securely, with one exception:
Properly crimped Faston connections work very well for stranded wire. For me, they don't work at all for solidcore wire. Here I resort to soldering as well. (For example, secondaries of the big Toroidy power transformers).
Regards, Claas
Works very well and holds securely, with one exception:
Properly crimped Faston connections work very well for stranded wire. For me, they don't work at all for solidcore wire. Here I resort to soldering as well. (For example, secondaries of the big Toroidy power transformers).
Regards, Claas
I agree, with the proper tool and tech, it's good if the fastener is high quality, but not for solid.
I always used GB, but lately they have been crap. Last ones I got were utter rubbish, but in the past they were great.
I don't want to give thought to that kind of stuff when I have to wat and see if it's usable or not. Solder wire into hole.... done. 🙂
jt
The type of crimping tool matters a lot. The thin steel crimpers are terrible but the die based crimpers work so much better. Going to borrow a pair from work to do them properly.
Yup, I see now that me writing "Here I resort to soldering as well" is ambiguous. "as well" in this case meant "doing it the same way as the posters before me".
Solidcore wire I only solder into the Faston connectors; no crimping with these ... 😀
Solidcore wire I only solder into the Faston connectors; no crimping with these ... 😀
Actually, I have used the soldered screw terminals on a number of builds in the last 10 years.
I am still using them, but cautiously. For me, they work only well for low- to medium-torque "screwing", and for few fastening cycles.
Even when you have multiple poles in one plastic housing, each connection is by a single soldered spike on the PCB ... and all I have tried, had a little play in the housing. From that, when fastening, they are twisting a bit and putting strain on the joint, and I had actually break some of them loose after a number of reconnections - either lifting the pad, or breaking the spike, or the solder connection. 😱
So, for this build, I decided to go with friction connectors:
- silver solder pins 1 mm dia. for signal input
- silver solder pins 1.3 mm dia. for D+/D- and anti-thump relay
- 4.8 mm Faston for power to frontend and for power switch
- 6.3 mm Faston for power to output boards
If the hole spacing would have fitted the stock I have, I would have used Molex or JST connectors for signal connections. 😉
Regards, Claas
I am still using them, but cautiously. For me, they work only well for low- to medium-torque "screwing", and for few fastening cycles.
Even when you have multiple poles in one plastic housing, each connection is by a single soldered spike on the PCB ... and all I have tried, had a little play in the housing. From that, when fastening, they are twisting a bit and putting strain on the joint, and I had actually break some of them loose after a number of reconnections - either lifting the pad, or breaking the spike, or the solder connection. 😱
So, for this build, I decided to go with friction connectors:
- silver solder pins 1 mm dia. for signal input
- silver solder pins 1.3 mm dia. for D+/D- and anti-thump relay
- 4.8 mm Faston for power to frontend and for power switch
- 6.3 mm Faston for power to output boards
If the hole spacing would have fitted the stock I have, I would have used Molex or JST connectors for signal connections. 😉
Regards, Claas
SITS
Look what I found in AU. NOS never been used, they come from someone who stashed a few for repairs... smart guy.
I have a B2, fact going to pick up another that is suposed to have bad outputs. I can keep them for spares, repiar the second B2 or make something entirely new. '
What say you Pop, you got something cool stashed in your head for the likes of these? 🙂
Look what I found in AU. NOS never been used, they come from someone who stashed a few for repairs... smart guy.
I have a B2, fact going to pick up another that is suposed to have bad outputs. I can keep them for spares, repiar the second B2 or make something entirely new. '
What say you Pop, you got something cool stashed in your head for the likes of these? 🙂
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you can make one of previous Sony VFet amps - either first one with 2 pairs or second one with one pair per channel
certainly both being better than anything commercially made with VFets, if you ignore power capabilities ( some of them having 100W or so)
certainly both being better than anything commercially made with VFets, if you ignore power capabilities ( some of them having 100W or so)
@Zen
I have enough of the spec FET for both the P&N channel amps Pop gave us and will be doing those for sure.
I'm not sure where these will go, but was thinking maybe something mono maybe with more ouput. I know Pop has limited his output on First Watt stuff to keep out out of Pass Labs wheelhouse, so I would, most likely, would have towork with others here if I go that route.
I'm not sure where it's going, yet, just through I would toss it out for forum input like yours.
JT
I have enough of the spec FET for both the P&N channel amps Pop gave us and will be doing those for sure.
I'm not sure where these will go, but was thinking maybe something mono maybe with more ouput. I know Pop has limited his output on First Watt stuff to keep out out of Pass Labs wheelhouse, so I would, most likely, would have towork with others here if I go that route.
I'm not sure where it's going, yet, just through I would toss it out for forum input like yours.
JT
Are those MUNDORF 6.3G Female Blade Connectors?
What tool did you bought to crimp them?
Something of Knipex i guess. 😀
Looks clean. I like it. 🙂