I have used Klein’s for years now. These work reliably and very simple concept. Works on PVC, Teflon, and even delicate silicone insulated wires.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000302WS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8NC5WC96XFVZ4ZTN5VTW
This one, although very basic and uses a rotating cam to set the wire gauge, works very well on small 20ga to 28ga wires.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GTP0LE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_921PZG2CZCRW1NVDXNTG
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000302WS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8NC5WC96XFVZ4ZTN5VTW
This one, although very basic and uses a rotating cam to set the wire gauge, works very well on small 20ga to 28ga wires.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GTP0LE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_921PZG2CZCRW1NVDXNTG
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Oh, thank you for that... I've just been browsing around for the same thing!
My old favorite source was Weird Stuff Warehouse, a surplus shop in Sunnyvale. They're gone now (along with HSC / Halted, and most of the other surplus shops) ... RIP. Their stock of PTFE mil-spec wire was pretty hit-and-miss... leftover partial spools from wherever, and you had to get lucky as PTFE wire always seemed to disappear quickly. So my inventory is likewise pretty spotty.
These are audio frequency amps. Why do we need to use Teflon coated wire that’s super expensive, stiff and prone to strain breakage at solder point, and a pain to use? We are not making RF circuits for spacecraft here.
Lately, I have been using fine high strand count (252 strands for 16ga) flexible wire designed for high amperage RC hobbies like race cars and RC quadcopters. The wires are designed to handle 50A to 100A peak loads. They are super flexible and covered with silicone insulation. They are very resistant to mechanical strain due to their high flexibility.
For example:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017TFR664/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8NFANK3G60373FH4W6CH
16ga RC drone wire is good for 90A for 10 seconds without damage.
Silicone wire - measured and tested - YouTube
That’s more than any DIY amp will even get close to.
Lately, I have been using fine high strand count (252 strands for 16ga) flexible wire designed for high amperage RC hobbies like race cars and RC quadcopters. The wires are designed to handle 50A to 100A peak loads. They are super flexible and covered with silicone insulation. They are very resistant to mechanical strain due to their high flexibility.
For example:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017TFR664/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8NFANK3G60373FH4W6CH
16ga RC drone wire is good for 90A for 10 seconds without damage.
Silicone wire - measured and tested - YouTube
That’s more than any DIY amp will even get close to.
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I like the PTFE insulation because it doesn't melt at soldering temperatures. Just ordered a set of 25ft spools through the site that WBS pointed to. The other sites provided by others look pretty nice too.
I like using all the different wire types, I use what I have in stock and then go buy something else. My wife keeps telling me I'm crazy with this crazy hobby. Now that Nelson says I'm crazy, I guess now I'll have to look into that.
Silicone insulation doesn’t melt either at high temperatures. Not as high as Teflon, but at usual soldering temps it’s not a problem.
Received the kit, hardware and chassis number... 069.
Output boards show correct cap polarity. FE boards show R7.
Nice LSK170 and LSJ74 included. Fantastic!
Pierre
Output boards show correct cap polarity. FE boards show R7.
Nice LSK170 and LSJ74 included. Fantastic!
Pierre
I just finished mine and am currently driving the workshop speakers, bias is stable after about 30 min, offset around 5mV (negative, with red on red/ blk on blk speaker posts).
Stunning thing, absolutely silent, very light turn off thumb though, but nothing to worry about for me.
I took some pictures and posted them in the build thread and in the pass picture section. When looking at the pictures I noticed the markings on the Vfets and was surpised it was the same.
I wouldn't think it's necessary to have the devices matched in a signle ended design? .Or are these "leftovers" from the 2016 PP kit ?
That said, BIG thanks to Papa, Jason, 6L6 and all the other members and Diyaudio staff working/contributing in the background to make this happen!
Max
Stunning thing, absolutely silent, very light turn off thumb though, but nothing to worry about for me.
I took some pictures and posted them in the build thread and in the pass picture section. When looking at the pictures I noticed the markings on the Vfets and was surpised it was the same.
I wouldn't think it's necessary to have the devices matched in a signle ended design? .Or are these "leftovers" from the 2016 PP kit ?
That said, BIG thanks to Papa, Jason, 6L6 and all the other members and Diyaudio staff working/contributing in the background to make this happen!
Max
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I believe Nelson mentioned that the matching wasn't necessary, but was easy enough to do in this case.
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I think the numbers on the VFETs are just numbers from 1 to 1xx?
It is not a measured figure is my guess so it just to pair the VFETs from maybe a rough measurement?
I have 84 on both......so I just think that my VFET pair has no. 84.....but it is pure guessing 🙂
It is not a measured figure is my guess so it just to pair the VFETs from maybe a rough measurement?
I have 84 on both......so I just think that my VFET pair has no. 84.....but it is pure guessing 🙂
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Was thinking about the same MEPER... probably just a "batch"/board number.
EDIT: That said, my pot settings are pretty identical...
EDIT: That said, my pot settings are pretty identical...
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I'm going to guess the numbers on the vfets represent Vgs values of the vfets at a certain test current.
