Did you profile the pair of magnets as per Herr Schroeders suggestions? I seem to recall that is done to counteract the problem you describe.
Hi,Has anyone experienced a decreasing tracking force from the outside of the record to the inside? Is it a natural phenomenon or more likely something in my build construction?
How much is such difference?
In my clone of the TA, once set it properly with a really minimal gap between the upper and bottom mags I recall the tracking force was almost optimal, just a 0.0x Gr. in the entire LP using electronic scale for cart. ( not recall the exact figue ). The setting was for Denon DL 103 I.E. 2.6 Gr.
I used N42 mags, Diam 10mm and thickness 5mm.
The TA was a 12 Inch.
The clearance between the 2 mags I started was the thickness of a name card and from that I decreased as much as I could avoiding that the mags touch each other.
Rgds
Adelmo
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AS force?Has anyone experienced a decreasing tracking force from the outside of the record to the inside? Is it a natural phenomenon or more likely something in my build construction?
Deadhead, can you point direction on that?Did you profile the pair of magnets as per Herr Schroeders suggestions? I seem to recall that is done to counteract the problem you describe.
My setup is quite good but may be there‘s some room for improvement.
All I can say is, make sure that the magnets are perfectly in line.
You will find a lot of the technical information post by Herr Schroeder ( posts under username berlinta on here ) on page 8 of this thread. Over a couple of posts he gives a lot of helpful insights into his workings.
Perhaps having the wires emerge away from the bearing axis is adding unexpected forces - normal arms have the wires acting as torsional springs co-axially with the arm bearing, which will only affect the anti-skating force, and with a small magnitude as only wire torque is involved. Might be worth doing some maths to figure this out.Has anyone experienced a decreasing tracking force from the outside of the record to the inside? Is it a natural phenomenon or more likely something in my build construction?
All I can say is, make sure that the magnets are perfectly in line.
Magnets have nothing to do with AS force!
Really nice execution deadhead!Mine is............... cartridge with aluminium screws- head shell plate ( Titanium ) - head shell plate screw ( Titanium ) Headshell ( aluminium ) Rosewood arm wand- aluminium bearing section- Brass counterweight isolated by silicone tube from the arm.
The tone arm wire runs inside a fine PTFE tube which in turn runs inside a fine brass tube inside the wand.
The wand was soaked in oils for quite a time to help towards deadening any resonance inherent in the wood.
The element at the top of the suspension thread that contains the adjustment grub screw is held in place by an O-ring with a strong interference fit in the hope that that too adds some damping to the arm.
View attachment 1330194
What is an Arm Lift that you have?
It is a standard Rega arm lift body but the actual arm lift 'finger' I made myself. I have couple of them. The one that is fitted in that photo has the up rise at one end to stop the arm swinging too far out. It is simply constructed out of two different thickness's of brass rod.
Hi everyone,So if we can't get rid of the magnets, let's get rid of the string 😆
Here is Triangleart's Osiris MK2 TA:
a late reply to this post from last year. I have never heard of this Osiris tonearm before but I built nearly the same tonearm 3 years ago. I'm very sure that the Osiris TA will not work properly. I have seen the setup video on YouTube. It's the same reason as with my tonearm. The magnet of the arm wand (8mm N40) will not rest exactly in the middle of the upper magnet.
You can see this problem in the video:
The arm moves some 1/10 or 1/100 mm if you touch the arm and put it back to the rest. So will the VTF vary and will not be constant over the whole record side. The lower magnet won't fix this design issue. The idea is good but not perfect in reality cause magnets can be little bastards. My arm sounded very good but I gave up the concept. I had problems to imagine that the Frank Schröder arms don't have the same problem with varying VTF but I think he has fixed it.
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Hello all,
I finally (after few years of delay) almost finished a Schroeder Tonearm. In that regards I have few questions so here they are:
1. When my friend machinist made an aluminum arm wand he made a (Cardas four wire) cable exit hole on an inner side instead of top. Is it going to cause a problem for VTA and/or Anti-Scate force? I can drill a top hole as well though if it is going to be a problem.
2. Since part of wand is made of wood there is no shielded insulation for a pickup arm cables. I have a four wire one so I need a fifth one for grounding. I can use a aluminum part for half of the length, but wooden part doesn't have a shield. Any idea how to shield the wooden part, since I have only four wires for the pickup?
THANKS in advance!
I finally (after few years of delay) almost finished a Schroeder Tonearm. In that regards I have few questions so here they are:
1. When my friend machinist made an aluminum arm wand he made a (Cardas four wire) cable exit hole on an inner side instead of top. Is it going to cause a problem for VTA and/or Anti-Scate force? I can drill a top hole as well though if it is going to be a problem.
2. Since part of wand is made of wood there is no shielded insulation for a pickup arm cables. I have a four wire one so I need a fifth one for grounding. I can use a aluminum part for half of the length, but wooden part doesn't have a shield. Any idea how to shield the wooden part, since I have only four wires for the pickup?
THANKS in advance!
Hi, if you dont want to go crazy for a lot of time like me with pickup noise, buy a copper braid like this
https://www.amazon.it/Anti-interferenza-Larghezza-Flessibile-Dissaldante-Riparazione/dp/B0C2M2KH6Y
I dolved my problems in 5 minutes with yhis two dollars.
Font forget it, Before yry his Way I yryed before all possible ways with no results,
https://www.amazon.it/Anti-interferenza-Larghezza-Flessibile-Dissaldante-Riparazione/dp/B0C2M2KH6Y
I dolved my problems in 5 minutes with yhis two dollars.
Font forget it, Before yry his Way I yryed before all possible ways with no results,
Hello all,
I finally (after few years of delay) almost finished a Schroeder Tonearm. In that regards I have few questions so here they are:
1. When my friend machinist made an aluminum arm wand he made a (Cardas four wire) cable exit hole on an inner side instead of top. Is it going to cause a problem for VTA and/or Anti-Scate force? I can drill a top hole as well though if it is going to be a problem.
2. Since part of wand is made of wood there is no shielded insulation for a pickup arm cables. I have a four wire one so I need a fifth one for grounding. I can use a aluminum part for half of the length, but wooden part doesn't have a shield. Any idea how to shield the wooden part, since I have only four wires for the pickup?
THANKS in advance!
Hi,
Few years ago i made a kind of clone of the Schroeder REF 1 TA, the wand is made of bamboo, I use 4 wires and I have zero hum or any other related problems. I used MM cart, but most of all I used MC Denon DL 103 cart.
However possible hum do not depends only on the TA, but depends also by other things such as SUT if used, TT type and motor, other.... The TA wires firstly were cheap Cooper wires, later I used silver silk coated, but I never had any kind of hum.
Rgds
Adelmo
THANK you Adelmo and giuz0, MUCH appreciate.
Adelmo, I see that you have your cables sticking out on a side, instead on top. Do you have any issue with Anti-scate Force?
Adelmo, I see that you have your cables sticking out on a side, instead on top. Do you have any issue with Anti-scate Force?
Hi Trzalica,
The wires in the picture were too stiff and low quality so I changed to much thinner ones and I had not really skating problem though I would not say that my TA s skating was perfect. However perfect anti skating not easy to be seen in many TA for all the LP track as skating force reduces toward the spindle. My clone was a 12 inch therefore skating force is less compared to a 9 inch TA.
To avoid any skating you should try something like LT TA.
By the way if I recall well also the original REF 1 have the wires coming out from the side lower part. The skating was adjusted twisting the thread that hold the top mag.
All the best for your TA.
Tks n rgds
Adelmo
The wires in the picture were too stiff and low quality so I changed to much thinner ones and I had not really skating problem though I would not say that my TA s skating was perfect. However perfect anti skating not easy to be seen in many TA for all the LP track as skating force reduces toward the spindle. My clone was a 12 inch therefore skating force is less compared to a 9 inch TA.
To avoid any skating you should try something like LT TA.
By the way if I recall well also the original REF 1 have the wires coming out from the side lower part. The skating was adjusted twisting the thread that hold the top mag.
All the best for your TA.
Tks n rgds
Adelmo
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THANK you Adelmo!
Mine is 12 inch as well so I'll see if it misbehave, if not I'll keep it as a side out as well.
BEST Regards!!!
Mine is 12 inch as well so I'll see if it misbehave, if not I'll keep it as a side out as well.
BEST Regards!!!
My cables are sticking out at the side towards the platter. The hole is a little bit downwards - no issues with anti skate. Cables are 0,2mm diameter each.
Currently I'm using a quite expensive MC cart without any hum at all. No insulation in the armwand.
Cheers
Stephan
Currently I'm using a quite expensive MC cart without any hum at all. No insulation in the armwand.
Cheers
Stephan
And why did you use wood in the first place?Since part of wand is made of wood there is no shielded insulation for a pickup arm cables.
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