That is exactly what I did with a buffer that I made about a month ago. It has a nice second harmonic, something I did not know the sound of.The simple answer was to add this simple circuit in front of my power amp and all the joy of listening, not hearing (that is when your wife talks to you) came back into my life.
As I mentioned in the thread, I leave it connected to my power amp, it is a difference like night and day in a good way.
If interested, see Amai-3000
So would you be so kind to share the .asc file so I can fiddle a little? Thanks 🙏That is exactly what I did with a buffer that I made about a month ago. It has a nice second harmonic, something I did not know the sound of.
As I mentioned in the thread, I leave it connected to my power amp, it is a difference like night and day in a good way.
If interested, see Amai-3000
I checked with LTSpice, using a supply voltage of 27 V does not need any other update to the schematic I posted, other than the resistors of 43 and 20 ohm, they dissipate 3.4 W and 1.6 W respectively so they should be able to handle that. And Q2 needs a bigger heatsink, it dissipates 2.5 W.Please, at this point I'd need an updated schematic... So the higher the supply voltage the better the drive?
Compared to a lower supply voltage the distortion drops when using 27 V:
Partial Harmonic Distortion: 0.053463%
Total Harmonic Distortion: 0.154846%
However, like Nico Ras said, distortion does not tell the whole story. That is why I stick to using a supply voltage of 12 V.
In your case I would consider using a laptop power supply of 19 V. Nowadays that is the voltage laptops use most.
I use an old HP laptop brick @27V and 3 amp for longer than I can remember, it is a very quiet and big brick. The heatsink is not large at all and it is running a little warm forever. There is no on off switch so it ran for 24/7 for years. The amp is the size of cigarette
pack. No frills Aluminium extruded box from eBay was $1.36
pack. No frills Aluminium extruded box from eBay was $1.36
Last edited:
Imo, right.Right
Attached the .asc file adjusted to your 16 ohm headphones.
By now I am not sure what the name of this amp is so @Nico Ras how does the name 'the Aksa Nico Ras Headphone Amp' sound? Or does it already have an other name?
Attachments
I cannot hear those issues unless the PSU operates ('switches') at a relatively low frequency. Then you hear a beep or otherwise. You will notice that immediately.So a switching PSU... No "audiofools" issues? 😁
To be sure I use an inductor with capacitors right after the supply voltage.
Wonderful, thanks!Imo, right.
Attached the .asc file adjusted to your 16 ohm headphones.
By now I am not sure what the name of this amp is so @Nico Ras how does the name 'the Aksa Nico Ras Headphone Amp' sound? Or does it already have an other name?
So nice, you said you're using hd800', would you suggest them(with or without 5kHz peak correction?)I use an old HP laptop brick @27V and 3 amp for longer than I can remember, it is a very quiet and big brick. The heatsink is not large at all and it is running a little warm forever. There is no on off switch so it ran for 24/7 for years. The amp is the size of cigarrette pack. No frills View attachment 1341077
As I said, I tend to listen to the good things and not mess with unnecessary things, if you want to start with DSP you ruin the deign and you forever fiddle with it for years, use it like intended, If you want to tune it fir more enjoyment, then yes change the peak until you find your nirvana
Last edited:
I prefer the HD600 but my one transducer is beggared. I used it to poke around a power amp and it got fried instantly, and I already had the 800. I would recommend the 6xx from massdrop a flatter responding speaker is dominated by the amp character, while the opposite is true, and that is the meaning to match amp with speakers/ You place the dominant part where it matters, like you did with adding your preamp goody
Last edited:
I will say something that might provoke a lot of comment, but it goes like this> A class AB amp operates a s a voltage and current source like coming from your mains. Reactive loads will change the volage to current phases angle depending whether the load is reactive, In SE the current is a constant DC and not related to phase angle change relative to voltage regardless of complex load I think that may also be the reason for an SE amp sounding louder and better than other amps and power transfer is at 100% efficiency. I am not referring to the lost heat efficiency but the actual efficiency of the energy moving the cone, which is in fact a motor.
Two or three weeks ago there was a thread sating that the NAD3020 (The most iconic amp ever that sold more amps than I am told all others together), the author claimed that he was able to reduce THD by 20 dB. Everyone crowed because it would make a better NAD 3020. All the modern audiophile claims of pinpoint accuracy, warm sound stage pleasant character waffle waffle, but not realising the character of this amp with its very simple circuit and 2N3055 QUASI CIMPLIMENTARY output was old-school and by using modern transistor this is now a better amp. Well in my opinion absolute ********, and he is merely a victim of his own bravado. If his version hits the market will he have blind audiofool following and selling +2.6 million units in the first year, probably not since the garbage character and sole of the amp completely and concocted it into just another run of the mill average commercial amp that no=one cares for and fail dismally. Better specs does not guarantee better sound. Each designer prioritise his love and affection as did Dr. Martin L. Borish, creating the most popular amplifier the world has ever seen
i
i
Last edited:
- Home
- Amplifiers
- Headphone Systems
- DIY Class A Headphone Amp suggestion