Ah... Ok! So you definitely need the small heatsink. All you have to do is to ensure to perfectly isolate the transistors collectors from the heatsink (which should be connected to ground...)
Gaetano.
Gaetano.
If using a through bolt with nut, split washer and flat washer on the backside of aluminum plate, use a nylon shoulder washer on the backside and one on the transistor side. Your basically “sandwiching” the aluminum plate with two shoulder washers.
The transistors in photos all have exposed metal backs, that's why they are insulated. It's up to the builder which transistors they select from the BOM. Some require insulation and some don't. The same thing goes for all the other transistors mounted on heatsinks. At the end of the day all you need to do is ensure none of the pins have continuity to the heatsink or to ground. Probe each transistor leg to the heatsink and ground to check.
And while we're at it, can somebody explain the reason behind the increased thickness of the driver heatsink? Is it only to house the two pins that hold the heatsink in place ? From a thermal point of view it does not add much, unless more thermal inertia is a desirable feature. Please note I am not criticizing this fantastic project. I just want to understand and try out variations on a theme.
Ronnie
Ronnie
The mouser-bag has arrived. I guess I've got no place to hide anymore🙂
Just my observation, I see that these boards are not designed for left and right channels. They are not mirrored. How do you install the right channel?
Upside down or with the input stage at the front of the case? That is bad for noise. They should be mirrored if you want everything to be symmetrical
Upside down or with the input stage at the front of the case? That is bad for noise. They should be mirrored if you want everything to be symmetrical
Hi all, have a dead Conrad Johnson Solid state amp chassis which is 3U with a 14" heat sink. I need to dig it out for precise measurements, but assuming it is deep enough for my EF 3-4 boards, would it be enough to dissipate normal in home listening?
Then the right board is upside down with the output transistors at the bottom at the heatsink.
^ You have a gift for stating the obvious. If you want symmetry... do it your own way. You should have the schematics now. Can't wait to see your boards.
"I don't need the documentation, I will design my own PCB. All I need is a schematic. Is that schematic from the first post correct?"
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...adger-suggestions.369758/page-87#post-7001137
"I don't need the documentation, I will design my own PCB. All I need is a schematic. Is that schematic from the first post correct?"
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...adger-suggestions.369758/page-87#post-7001137
^ So why then exactly are you worried about the visual symmetry of a design you don't intend to build? Keep it in the suggestions thread, please.
I would love to build it even with your boards it will save me time, but from my experience(I built a lot of amps), the ones that are not symmetrical build have more noise in one channel then the other one, because of the different positioning from the transformer. If the transformer is shielded it's oK.
I don't care for visuals as much as you guys are very neat and clean, all I care is for performance, noise, functionality. But unfortunatelly with your boards I might have a problem with noise. No offence.
I don't care for visuals as much as you guys are very neat and clean, all I care is for performance, noise, functionality. But unfortunatelly with your boards I might have a problem with noise. No offence.
Wanted to pick the collective's mind here on what would be the most recommended configuration.
I'd like to repurpose a Modushop 4U monoblock chassis (2x4U sinks in each side) for a Class A/B build for the summer or when I don't want to run my Class A amps lol.
I'm not looking for massive power as I have an affinity for efficient speakers. Just looking for sound quality and efficiency.
I'll likely go with a Micro Audio Cobra SMPS, but was wondering if +/-63VDC rails would be the most optimal with the EFS3-3 in my case?
I'd like to repurpose a Modushop 4U monoblock chassis (2x4U sinks in each side) for a Class A/B build for the summer or when I don't want to run my Class A amps lol.
I'm not looking for massive power as I have an affinity for efficient speakers. Just looking for sound quality and efficiency.
I'll likely go with a Micro Audio Cobra SMPS, but was wondering if +/-63VDC rails would be the most optimal with the EFS3-3 in my case?