It's not always the case, but 'things changing over time / with heat' points toward solder joints.
I'd start with reflowing these, particularly R5.
I'd start with reflowing these, particularly R5.
Unsoldered, resoldered, biased. Now waiting for her to cool down and see if it sticks. I noticed that one of my Bobas was also shy a little solder so I decided to re-flow that guy as well. Pay no attention to the fact that the top right resistor is backwards and breaks good stuffing etiquette. I'll be punished enough knowing that its there day after day, night after night, mocking me...
Viola! I was skeptical but that did the trick. So my lesson is to ensure that I take the time to get enough solder through the holes. If either of you find yourselves in the Raleigh area, beers are on me!
I have this little guy working off of my Korg and KG4s and Steely Dan is as sweet as pickles.
I have this little guy working off of my Korg and KG4s and Steely Dan is as sweet as pickles.
Hi all
Just completed my Mini this weekend. NO issues...assembled...fired up...took about an hour and half or so to be happy with bias...approx 11.5 volts and .303 mV after about 4hrs of use first day. Today (Sunday afternoon) she's stable on those numbers after just one check..lol..after about 4hrs.
I'm sure experimenting is gonna be fun...but for now...on 6.5 inch 88dB 2 ways...Jumpers out...WOW!!
Special thanks to member tom1066 for a 3d print file for a base for it to sit on.
Just completed my Mini this weekend. NO issues...assembled...fired up...took about an hour and half or so to be happy with bias...approx 11.5 volts and .303 mV after about 4hrs of use first day. Today (Sunday afternoon) she's stable on those numbers after just one check..lol..after about 4hrs.
I'm sure experimenting is gonna be fun...but for now...on 6.5 inch 88dB 2 ways...Jumpers out...WOW!!
Special thanks to member tom1066 for a 3d print file for a base for it to sit on.
Still toolin along...
Question...any thoughts on what Fosi uses for power bricks?...the one I have only shows a fosi oem type sticker...shows 24vdc...4.
5A....108 watts.
Just wondering if it would show any 'improvements' over the kit unit
My meter shows 24.09 when it stabilizes.
Question...any thoughts on what Fosi uses for power bricks?...the one I have only shows a fosi oem type sticker...shows 24vdc...4.
5A....108 watts.
Just wondering if it would show any 'improvements' over the kit unit
My meter shows 24.09 when it stabilizes.
It looks compatible, but it is impossible to foresee if it will sound better. There is more to it than just raw amperes... ripple, garbage to be filtered etc., all this affects the sound and is unit dependant.
As a side note, using a 5A quality Mean Well PS, more than overkill on the paper, did indeed enhence the sonic qualities of the Mini to our ears. Was it oomph or cleaness, dificult to tell, but...
We found the big PS sounded even better with SMPS filtering (be it the Murata coil - sounded best - or MJ's older SMPS filter) . So did the original / small PS BTW: filtering the SMPS is a must do IMHO, at least with a quality filter, or very efficiently in this specific case with the big coil. The original PS with coil was still no match for the big PS with coil, so perhaps "oomph" has something to say despite Class A and lower current draw.
All IME and to my ears, no harm trying anyway (just check that the plug terminal is Mini compatible and not inversed polarity - would be bad luck but does exist. Oh, and if it can't match big loads worst case it will probably go in hiccup mode, no drama.
Claude
As a side note, using a 5A quality Mean Well PS, more than overkill on the paper, did indeed enhence the sonic qualities of the Mini to our ears. Was it oomph or cleaness, dificult to tell, but...
We found the big PS sounded even better with SMPS filtering (be it the Murata coil - sounded best - or MJ's older SMPS filter) . So did the original / small PS BTW: filtering the SMPS is a must do IMHO, at least with a quality filter, or very efficiently in this specific case with the big coil. The original PS with coil was still no match for the big PS with coil, so perhaps "oomph" has something to say despite Class A and lower current draw.
All IME and to my ears, no harm trying anyway (just check that the plug terminal is Mini compatible and not inversed polarity - would be bad luck but does exist. Oh, and if it can't match big loads worst case it will probably go in hiccup mode, no drama.
Claude
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Thanks Claude
I probably will at some point..just curious as to what info someone might have on them...course this one could be a different make than another of theirs....and I will be adding the coil to the incoming power soon...right now tho after a few days...it's pretty impressive.
I probably will at some point..just curious as to what info someone might have on them...course this one could be a different make than another of theirs....and I will be adding the coil to the incoming power soon...right now tho after a few days...it's pretty impressive.
It is indeed a very pleasing little unit, at that price a steal.
The coil will enhence it anyway, probably regardless the SMPS, and its benefits are likely to be even greater with an average SMPS so no brainer really once you have the coil to try any compatible SMPS.
Can't help though on the Fosi PS specs. Good luck!
Claude
The coil will enhence it anyway, probably regardless the SMPS, and its benefits are likely to be even greater with an average SMPS so no brainer really once you have the coil to try any compatible SMPS.
Can't help though on the Fosi PS specs. Good luck!
Claude
Anyone have thoughts on changing R 0 from 6.8k in order to reduce LED brightness..apologies if this has been previously addressed..I searched, but may have missed it.
Jody
Jody
You can set the resistor to whatever value you like above the 6k8 fitted. You can't second guess what value you will prefer, some LED's are very bright on well under 1ma current. If its really bright now then try a 15k or 22k. Also no need to remove the resistor if the LED is panel mounted, just add another resistor in series with either lead to the LED.
If you add another resistor then consider using a preset resistor first to get the brightness exactly where you want, then substitute with nearest fixed value.
If you add another resistor then consider using a preset resistor first to get the brightness exactly where you want, then substitute with nearest fixed value.
