Thank you to ralph firstly
, I have a question regarding how to attach a RPM sensor to the SG4- currently I have an Arduino Tach using the small "Sensor " PCB from Osh Park, works very well-I have had a look in the forum but must have missed the bit on how to attach a sensor to the SG4?- sorry if i massed that gents.
, I have a question regarding how to attach a RPM sensor to the SG4- currently I have an Arduino Tach using the small "Sensor " PCB from Osh Park, works very well-I have had a look in the forum but must have missed the bit on how to attach a sensor to the SG4?- sorry if i massed that gents.
I am ready to run my Papst motor in 3-phase. It lives in my Fairchild 412-1A, model Papst HSM 14.50-4-675D. I live in Europe and am ready to upgrade my farmer-bodged pulley to compensate for the 50Hz.
I have been following these discussions for some years and noticed that several of you—Ralph, Bill, twystd, have used the SG4 to run these Papst motors in 3-phase. Can you tell me if there is any thing more that I would need aside from:
SG4 kit
3 channel 200W CLASS D Amplifier Board which Ralphfcooke linked earlier
3 x 60VA transformers for powering each phase
Thanks !
I have been following these discussions for some years and noticed that several of you—Ralph, Bill, twystd, have used the SG4 to run these Papst motors in 3-phase. Can you tell me if there is any thing more that I would need aside from:
SG4 kit
3 channel 200W CLASS D Amplifier Board which Ralphfcooke linked earlier
3 x 60VA transformers for powering each phase
Thanks !
Yes, an NTC between the amp output and the transformer is a good idea (NTC 5D-9), in addition a low pass filter/attenuator between the SG4 and the amp inputs, something like this, post #86, even better if you replace one of the resistors with a trimpot so that you can balance the transformer outputs exactly
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...vpi-synchronous-turntable-motor.295367/page-5
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...vpi-synchronous-turntable-motor.295367/page-5
ipilot:
You'll need to get the boards from Ralph or OshPark. I have one remaining extra set but the cost of shipping them to you would be outrageous compared to the cost of your buying the same boards on your side of the Atlantic. Ralph can also supply the programmed µP.
For what it's worth, this is a terrific project that has evolved nicely since its launch. Well worth your time and modest investment.
Regards,
Scott
You'll need to get the boards from Ralph or OshPark. I have one remaining extra set but the cost of shipping them to you would be outrageous compared to the cost of your buying the same boards on your side of the Atlantic. Ralph can also supply the programmed µP.
For what it's worth, this is a terrific project that has evolved nicely since its launch. Well worth your time and modest investment.
Regards,
Scott
Thank you Pyramid for posting schematics!!
And thank you Ralph for your response!
I was able to figure it out. Sorry for seeming lazy, I didn’t notice the schematic PDF at first.
These are Rev A or Rev B since “pin 1” (the pin nearest the U4 marking) goes to ground—which means it was designed with the DS1833 in mind.
My MCP101 is the “H” bondout (version) so it gets installed backwards.
DS1833: 1-Vss (ground) 2-reset 3-Vdd (power)
MCP101 “H”: 1-Vdd 2-reset 3-Vss
Please correct me if I got any of that wrong.
Best regards,
John
And thank you Ralph for your response!
I was able to figure it out. Sorry for seeming lazy, I didn’t notice the schematic PDF at first.
These are Rev A or Rev B since “pin 1” (the pin nearest the U4 marking) goes to ground—which means it was designed with the DS1833 in mind.
My MCP101 is the “H” bondout (version) so it gets installed backwards.
DS1833: 1-Vss (ground) 2-reset 3-Vdd (power)
MCP101 “H”: 1-Vdd 2-reset 3-Vss
Please correct me if I got any of that wrong.
Best regards,
John