Member
Joined 2003
Hi Russ,
Have you recieved my email? Are you interested in sharing the source code for the PIC on the kookaburra?
Have you recieved my email? Are you interested in sharing the source code for the PIC on the kookaburra?
DcibeL said:
Hmmm I think I posted it many moons ago, but it is probably lost in he long thread. Here it is. I have an improved version, but this one works just fine.
Member
Joined 2003
Thanks! 😀
On first glance I think there may be an undefined variable or two, though I didn't really look that hard. I'll have to reboot my computer into Windows to really go to town on this. All I really needed is the code to write data to the PGA2311 so I didn't have to read through the datasheet and figure it out. Timing diagrams give me a head ache.
On first glance I think there may be an undefined variable or two, though I didn't really look that hard. I'll have to reboot my computer into Windows to really go to town on this. All I really needed is the code to write data to the PGA2311 so I didn't have to read through the datasheet and figure it out. Timing diagrams give me a head ache.
Hi all,
I want to buy some PGA2311PA (DIL) in Europe for my needs. Who is selling them here ? Where do you buy yours ?
Not Farnell that don't want to sell to hobbyists, even buying many PGAs.
Thank you for your help.
Best regards.
rephil
I want to buy some PGA2311PA (DIL) in Europe for my needs. Who is selling them here ? Where do you buy yours ?
Not Farnell that don't want to sell to hobbyists, even buying many PGAs.
Thank you for your help.
Best regards.
rephil
Hello AmA,
I appreciate your precious help from France, country of d'Artagnan and the 3 musketeers. Their spirit 'one for all, all for one' seems to be still alive with you ...
Thank you AmA.
Best regards
rephil
I appreciate your precious help from France, country of d'Artagnan and the 3 musketeers. Their spirit 'one for all, all for one' seems to be still alive with you ...
Thank you AmA.
Best regards
rephil
Hi Russ and Brian:
Here I am, still waiting for the TX's to arrive. 🙁
While I wait, I want to ask you a question (I'm sure I saw the answer somewhere but can't find it now).
To connect Kookaburra to My-ref the output buffer from Kook could be obviated, right?
If so, where do you connect the outputs or where do you put jumpers?
Thankz
Mauricio
Here I am, still waiting for the TX's to arrive. 🙁
While I wait, I want to ask you a question (I'm sure I saw the answer somewhere but can't find it now).
To connect Kookaburra to My-ref the output buffer from Kook could be obviated, right?
If so, where do you connect the outputs or where do you put jumpers?
Thankz
Mauricio
maxlorenz said:Hi Russ and Brian:
Here I am, still waiting for the TX's to arrive. 🙁
While I wait, I want to ask you a question (I'm sure I saw the answer somewhere but can't find it now).
To connect Kookaburra to My-ref the output buffer from Kook could be obviated, right?
If so, where do you connect the outputs or where do you put jumpers?
Thankz
Mauricio
Yes it can, You really only need the output buffer for loads less than 600ohm.
I will post a photo of where to put the jumper as soon as I get home where I have them. I am at work right now.
Notice that on the PCB silkscreen there are two white lines between two pins on both sides of the output buffer. Just use a piece of wire or discraded resistor lead to jumper those two holes on each side.
Cheers!
Russ
So, the bottom jumper need only go to the second hole, as the second and third holes are connected. Either will work fine.
maxlorenz said:OK, Brian, that helped too.
Can I let the SMD opamp in place?
Sorry
M.
No you should not leave it in place.
:EDIT: unless you want to cut the power supply traces at the buffer pads. Which would eliminate the posibility of using the output buffer later.
Re: An idea gone wild
hi,
how are those tests going with the multi kook perch and power supply?
i wonder if I can use different values voor those pots, how much effect would it have if i put 20k pots instead of the 25k pots?
the reason would be: to find motorised pots of 25 k is a pain, but 10k and 20k are easily available by alps
greetz
PS does anyone know where i can find more info on the panasonic motorised pots? can seem te find the available values 🙁
Russ White said:
hi,
how are those tests going with the multi kook perch and power supply?
i wonder if I can use different values voor those pots, how much effect would it have if i put 20k pots instead of the 25k pots?
the reason would be: to find motorised pots of 25 k is a pain, but 10k and 20k are easily available by alps
greetz
PS does anyone know where i can find more info on the panasonic motorised pots? can seem te find the available values 🙁
or can one change that value using a trimmer or something?
i don't know, i never needed to do so ... ?
gtz
i don't know, i never needed to do so ... ?
gtz
The value of the pot are not critical, just need to be high enough so that when in parallel they don't overload the buffer. A buffer after the "master" pot is important. 20K should be just fine.
Would one choose to put coupling caps at the input or output, in series or parallel? Just a pondering thought as i thought of ordering some capacitors...
Russ White said:
What about the Kook as is NOT muti, can a 10 or 20K motorized pot be used? Because I sure can't find a motorized 5K!!!!!
Mike
Let me clarify. The kooka is not critical about the volume pot, as long as it has enough resistance from end to end no to swamp the power supply. 5K is about as low as I would go. You can go much higher if you like. Up to 100K or so should work just fine.
Cheers!
Russ
Cheers!
Russ
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