It is the hugo scoop design from speaker plans
the settings on the dsp was tuned by a local dj but i realized they were over driving the loudspeakers because his scoops were bucking with the bass i just want clean bass
Also i noticed people are really blowing loudspeakers here in trinidad they seem to want one speaker to sound like 2 or two subs and two mains to sound like a 4 by 4 i knock down all my gain on the dsp eq and ran the hpf at 40 and lpf at 125 it sounded far better cleaner and i got a better impact tomorrow i will try it with out the eq i guess the loudspeaker has too much work to do at all those frequencies i know it has great potential but it is a good thing i joined this forum thanks guys keep the info coming
you really need to take measurements if you plan on using eq. A lot of times the room, or the placement IN the room can have as much of an effect on Bass Frequency response as the design itself. If you are used to running outdoor gigs, the benefit is that 1 gig will be very much like the next, and the last gigs, but you will not get any benefit from boundaries.
the biggest issue is you are using multiple bands of Parametric EQ, with low Q settings (1 and .5 etc). *IF* you decide you need to use eq, then its usually beneficial to use a narrower Q in the sub band (like 2.5 to 4), and PERSONALLY, I prefer to run sweeps and "knock down" frequencies that stick out to me (much easier this way to recognize the problem areas, and cut them with narrow q PEQ).
Remember, EQ DOES NOT effect MAX SPL. MAX SPL always stays the same. EQ will effect the way your cabinets sound BEFORE they are run to the bleeding edge, and if you have too much boost, they will just hit the bleeding edge far earlier on the input side of things.
DId you switch the filter types to Butterworth (from Linkwitz Riley)?
Oh, final words of advice. Dont let DJ's touch your gear.
the biggest issue is you are using multiple bands of Parametric EQ, with low Q settings (1 and .5 etc). *IF* you decide you need to use eq, then its usually beneficial to use a narrower Q in the sub band (like 2.5 to 4), and PERSONALLY, I prefer to run sweeps and "knock down" frequencies that stick out to me (much easier this way to recognize the problem areas, and cut them with narrow q PEQ).
Remember, EQ DOES NOT effect MAX SPL. MAX SPL always stays the same. EQ will effect the way your cabinets sound BEFORE they are run to the bleeding edge, and if you have too much boost, they will just hit the bleeding edge far earlier on the input side of things.
DId you switch the filter types to Butterworth (from Linkwitz Riley)?
Oh, final words of advice. Dont let DJ's touch your gear.
this box is strictly my garage which has one wall and a roof but these scoops are used for large sound systems on trucks here in tt mainly the vehicles are 40 feet trailers with any where between 20 to 24 scoops and 20 to 28 mains but honestly most of them sounds really crappy for so much cabinets i personally feel they under-power the system because they run 6 to 8 800 to 1000watts aes rates18 inch loudspeakers on an amp that supplies 2400 watts rms @ 2ohms and they match the mains components watt for watt on the matching amp so no headroom so more or less the amplifiers have to be running full throttle to deliver thats really scares me my mains plays clean and warm so no problem there i know these djs here dont really understands the physics in sound engineering because they always fry subs in folded horn i guess they want a sort of quickfix bass lol anyways will try the butterworth filter and knock off the eq...cheers
6 x 800 =4800 watts.
AES ratings use compressed pink noise with six dB dynamic range, a sine wave has only 3 dB dynamic range, so an AES 800 watt sub may only survive a 400 watt sine wave signal.
It is becoming more common for some types of music to have LF content with as little as 3 dB dynamic range, so 400 watts may be all an "800 watt" speaker could safely handle, while with more dynamic music 1600 or even 3200 watt peaks could be survivable.
ok i tried lowering the db gains on the eq and set my hp at 40 and lp at 100 the bass got way deeper and traveled a lot more at say 50 feet thats good enough for me lol
4 or More
in an array will cover the venue you describe [1]. The drivers for these are made near you [2]. PD also provides some DIY enclosure designs as well.
[1] by Rog Mogale (Void Acoustics)
Speakerplans.com
[2] Precision Devices
Precision Devices? Product Range
in an array will cover the venue you describe [1]. The drivers for these are made near you [2]. PD also provides some DIY enclosure designs as well.
[1] by Rog Mogale (Void Acoustics)
Speakerplans.com
[2] Precision Devices
Precision Devices? Product Range
Thanks for the Heads-Up.
Missed the date for the original post. These days my posts here are quick and infrequent, due to business demands for my time. Maybe the redundant post may be of benefit to other readers.
Regards,
WHG
Missed the date for the original post. These days my posts here are quick and infrequent, due to business demands for my time. Maybe the redundant post may be of benefit to other readers.
Regards,
WHG
Hello guys! Our crew wants to build a soundystem which will primarly play dub/dubstep/jungle, but we will also have to play techno/psytrance sometimes. We will use this system indoors and outdoors, so big spl and reach is primarily our goal. Since we are new to this i have some questions.
We want to start with sub bins and we are looking at 18" super scooper and 18" hog scoop, posibly loaded with pd 1851/2 (if any of you have different suggestions feel free to express it). For the beginning we are looking at building 4 bins (and in the future maybe 8). I`m wondering if any of you can help me with telling me the difference between this two types of horns (regarding spl, clarity of the bass, throw, strenght when stacked etc.). Later, we also intend to build kickers and mids/tops, so if any of you have some suggestions, they are welcome🙂
Money is of course an issue, but we are prepared to work on this longer and build it properly. The size is not a big issue, since we use a big van to transport it.
We are looking at this two designs:
Speakerplans.com
Hog Scoop
Are they any good? Does somebody has experience with this to designs? I also read that is better to use pd1851/2 than pd1850. What is you opinion on that?
Thank you for your help!
Best regards,
D
We want to start with sub bins and we are looking at 18" super scooper and 18" hog scoop, posibly loaded with pd 1851/2 (if any of you have different suggestions feel free to express it). For the beginning we are looking at building 4 bins (and in the future maybe 8). I`m wondering if any of you can help me with telling me the difference between this two types of horns (regarding spl, clarity of the bass, throw, strenght when stacked etc.). Later, we also intend to build kickers and mids/tops, so if any of you have some suggestions, they are welcome🙂
Money is of course an issue, but we are prepared to work on this longer and build it properly. The size is not a big issue, since we use a big van to transport it.
We are looking at this two designs:
Speakerplans.com
Hog Scoop
Are they any good? Does somebody has experience with this to designs? I also read that is better to use pd1851/2 than pd1850. What is you opinion on that?
Thank you for your help!
Best regards,
D
Hey guys,
I am new to this site and the whole idea of folded horn. I have 2 10 inch driver in my garage and would like to make a folded horn box for it. i see a nice design
but i don't have the measurements.
Can someone help me with a folded horn design and a plan.
Thank you
I am new to this site and the whole idea of folded horn. I have 2 10 inch driver in my garage and would like to make a folded horn box for it. i see a nice design
but i don't have the measurements.
Can someone help me with a folded horn design and a plan.
Thank you
😕 references and T/S specs?🙂
from here you should probably start a new thread...
(note) administrator can move it to a new one if you ask him.
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