Lucky man...
I also do the drilling and tapping... but it does not take that long.
Not familiar with imperial sizes unfortunately. For me its a 2.5mm drill bit and metric m3 tap for the m3 screws I can readily get...
I also do the drilling and tapping... but it does not take that long.
Not familiar with imperial sizes unfortunately. For me its a 2.5mm drill bit and metric m3 tap for the m3 screws I can readily get...
Drilling fluid use
Thanks meanman - I will give self-tapping screws a try.
Nordic - are you using a cutting fluid when you drill? I find that the fluting on the drill packs so easily. I think I will try some form of cutting fluid.
Francois
Thanks meanman - I will give self-tapping screws a try.
Nordic - are you using a cutting fluid when you drill? I find that the fluting on the drill packs so easily. I think I will try some form of cutting fluid.
Francois
I give it a squirt with WD40...
I read somewhere that because the cut threads don't fragment as fast as other metals it is beter to give a small twist back for every quarter revolution.. to break the threads and allow it to get in the exhaust grooves of the tap... I just spray the tap... otherwise the little loose peices don't want to come out of the holes when I'm done...
I read somewhere that because the cut threads don't fragment as fast as other metals it is beter to give a small twist back for every quarter revolution.. to break the threads and allow it to get in the exhaust grooves of the tap... I just spray the tap... otherwise the little loose peices don't want to come out of the holes when I'm done...
Re: Drilling fluid use
If you gonna use them don't try to turn them in at once.Turn them in a bit and then turn them out a bit and take your time don't let them get warmt up or they can break.
Francois G said:
If you gonna use them don't try to turn them in at once.Turn them in a bit and then turn them out a bit and take your time don't let them get warmt up or they can break.
Re: Re: Drilling fluid use
And a little bit of "Never seeze" won't hurt ( Silver coloured grease, used in the automotive bussines to avoid bolts to get stuck )
I still prefer threads, or even better, a clamp to hold transistors pressed against the cooling fin.
Edit: Self tapping screws tend to let the material "rise" a bit around the hole, remember to check that, or the heat won't get transferred fast enough.
meanman1964 said:
And a little bit of "Never seeze" won't hurt ( Silver coloured grease, used in the automotive bussines to avoid bolts to get stuck )
I still prefer threads, or even better, a clamp to hold transistors pressed against the cooling fin.
Edit: Self tapping screws tend to let the material "rise" a bit around the hole, remember to check that, or the heat won't get transferred fast enough.
I stack some washers in increasing size under the head of the screw to spread the presure zone a little over the transistor...
Makes me less scared of cracking one...
Makes me less scared of cracking one...
Re: Drilling fluid use
I was told to use methylated Spirits as a cutting aid with aluminium. Tried it once, worked well enough for me.
-F_D
Francois G said:
I was told to use methylated Spirits as a cutting aid with aluminium. Tried it once, worked well enough for me.
-F_D
I've been away for a while and just stumbled upon this GB...I don't suppose there are any full kits available (or were they ever?)? Other than that, maybe someone has some extra boards and pieces they'd like off. Aside from that, I guess that ordering through the webpage is my main option right?
I'll read through things in the morning...the text is starting to get a little fuzzy 😛
I'll read through things in the morning...the text is starting to get a little fuzzy 😛
Hi there... the kits are pretty comprehensive... you just need to buy a few capacitors realy... and the output transistors...
I have 3 paid for backorders allready and we are just waiting for the factory to reopen on monday, to get our next batch out...
I have 3 paid for backorders allready and we are just waiting for the factory to reopen on monday, to get our next batch out...
So I should just go through the website and order the 4 "parts"? amp PCB, PSU PCB, resistor pack and transistor pack?
Aside from that, just whatever inexpensive/expensive caps I want to stick on there, the xformer and usual connectors.
More thinking tomorrow.
Aside from that, just whatever inexpensive/expensive caps I want to stick on there, the xformer and usual connectors.
More thinking tomorrow.
Hi Nordic,
At your website you're talking about an earth-disconnect network,I was wondering can you use a thermistor for that like the CL-60 or other like Pass Aleph amplifiers?
At your website you're talking about an earth-disconnect network,I was wondering can you use a thermistor for that like the CL-60 or other like Pass Aleph amplifiers?
Hi, it is not an essential part... first check to see if you can wire your unit up without any groundloops...
Ok just want to confirm for the backorder groupbuyers, that I got hold of the owner of the PCB factory, got a bit worried as it seems they had an extended holiday... The order for your boards have been submitted and will be processed asap...
Question about 2sc5200/2sa1943
Newbie question:
The kit contains silicon washers for the 2sc5200/2sa1943 output devices. Is this the preferred method for attaching these transistors to the heatsink, or is a thermal compound (Arctic Silver?) considered better?
Do the heatsinks for each channel need to be electrically isolated from each other? Or can 2 boards share one long heatsink?
Sorry for such basic questions. I got so confused going through the different threads, and the talk about the variants of the DX, then the HRII, HRIII, Precision I, Precision II...my eyes have gone buggy!
So I decided to post here in this thread.
Thanks from the frozen wasteland that is Ohio,
Dave
Newbie question:
The kit contains silicon washers for the 2sc5200/2sa1943 output devices. Is this the preferred method for attaching these transistors to the heatsink, or is a thermal compound (Arctic Silver?) considered better?
Do the heatsinks for each channel need to be electrically isolated from each other? Or can 2 boards share one long heatsink?
Sorry for such basic questions. I got so confused going through the different threads, and the talk about the variants of the DX, then the HRII, HRIII, Precision I, Precision II...my eyes have gone buggy!
So I decided to post here in this thread.Thanks from the frozen wasteland that is Ohio,
Dave
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