eah, thanks for the tips!!!
I have an old junky table saw in my kitchen that I use from time to time. It could probably use a tuneup. it would make my projects look better too no doubt.
course, I am usually just aiming for an end sonic result. I have eventually found that selling my experiments to friends at modest prices allows me more feedback, a little cash to cover parts expenses, and keeps the clutter down in my apartment.
so getting a table saw right is important for me right now...
Clark
I have an old junky table saw in my kitchen that I use from time to time. It could probably use a tuneup. it would make my projects look better too no doubt.
course, I am usually just aiming for an end sonic result. I have eventually found that selling my experiments to friends at modest prices allows me more feedback, a little cash to cover parts expenses, and keeps the clutter down in my apartment.
so getting a table saw right is important for me right now...
Clark
I've done a little research at Home Depot.
They sell PL premium construction adhesive, my favorite glue. It is $3.89 in the glue section. It comes in a caulk gun tube.
They also sell removable weatherstripping called "Seal and Peel" made by DOW it's $4.29 and is in the same section. I use this both for speaker gasket, and to temporarily put a face on a cabinet for testing that I'd like to disassemble later.
2" PVC is available in 2' lengths for only $2.69
They sell PL premium construction adhesive, my favorite glue. It is $3.89 in the glue section. It comes in a caulk gun tube.
They also sell removable weatherstripping called "Seal and Peel" made by DOW it's $4.29 and is in the same section. I use this both for speaker gasket, and to temporarily put a face on a cabinet for testing that I'd like to disassemble later.
2" PVC is available in 2' lengths for only $2.69
Very interesting,
I wonder how this driver would preform in a linear array of 3 or 4 units per side?[grouped in the same cab.] parts are priced right. Any opinions? and can it be modeled? 😀
I wonder how this driver would preform in a linear array of 3 or 4 units per side?[grouped in the same cab.] parts are priced right. Any opinions? and can it be modeled? 😀
Spasticteapot said:
Acrylic sheet as is "plexiglass", or the acrylic based mineral filler laden solid surface materials ( i.e. Corian, Avonite, etc.) ?
Due to the cost and fabrication intricacies, I've yet to hear any DIY speaker made from the latter, My only audition of a commerical (Full range) product was quite underwhelming .
Corian has been successfully used in a similar design. I think thick acrylic could work, but I don't think it would outperform 3/4" MDF.
pekar. I am actually going to constuct these speakers.
any chance of a parts list such as wood sizes n stuff, much appreciated.
any chance of a parts list such as wood sizes n stuff, much appreciated.
pekar said:
I don't know about that... IMHO MDF is not a great speaker building material (unless you are a speaker manufaturer trying to keep costs down)
dave
planet10 said:
I don't know about that. Some of the most expensive speakers in the world use MDF. I believe the Wilson Watt Puppys are partialy MDF. I agree with you that MDF is generally hard to design with and I have not gotten good results with MDF but many extremely high end speaker designers are using it. In the end, these guys are not worried about an extra hundred bux for wood in a 40,000 dollar speaker.
Tom
For a sub, I prefer to use MDF.
Plywood seems to work better for fullrange units.
However, I have not noticed anything ugly with MDF.
Plywood seems to work better for fullrange units.
However, I have not noticed anything ugly with MDF.
Hi Pekar
What is the internal volume of the box?
And what is the tuning frequency?
I live in the part of the World were we use the metric system, so inches is not my strong side.
Thanks.
What is the internal volume of the box?
And what is the tuning frequency?
I live in the part of the World were we use the metric system, so inches is not my strong side.
Thanks.
LaserL,
More info for this project is available at:
http://diyaudioprojects.com/Speakers/DelSol/index.htm
Also, check out Convert
http://joshmadison.net/software/convert/
for quick unit conversions.
More info for this project is available at:
http://diyaudioprojects.com/Speakers/DelSol/index.htm
Also, check out Convert
http://joshmadison.net/software/convert/
for quick unit conversions.
Actually, I was hoping to use acrylic because it's easy to work with - I'm no good with wood, but it's not hard to bend a single sheet into the right shape.
can I have hands up on how many people have built this?, looks interesting and some seem enthusiastic.
gychang
gychang
This is a new project, I'm not sure anyone has finished a pair yet.
I found this link to a line array Yeo built with this Aura driver
http://www.diyparadise.com/fetish/fetish.html
I found this link to a line array Yeo built with this Aura driver
http://www.diyparadise.com/fetish/fetish.html
The NS3-194-8E has a nasty treble roll-off.
Perhaps this could be corrected with one of the Dayton Neo tweeters ($5) and a capacitor?
Perhaps this could be corrected with one of the Dayton Neo tweeters ($5) and a capacitor?
Well I'm planning to try a pair - trying to find a source for the drivers in Europe before I order from madisound. They have quoted $30 shipping on one pair or $40 for three pairs if anyone in the UK is interested in a pair we could combine.
Hi, great looking project. I am about to do something similar with Fostex126e drivers. I like the front treatment of the boxes. Along with a K-12, I use Sonic Impact Super T amps for driving my subs and when the K-12 is out of service on my main speakers. I have both regular T amps and the Supers. The difference is huge. Better bass, cleaner mid and top bout doesn't lose that detail and almost tube like sound. I understand that Sonic Impact is bust, but places like Parts Express still list the amps. $US139 isn't real cheap, but they are hard to beat at the price.
Good listening
gofar99
Good listening
gofar99