Hi Stef and everybody. I was watching this topic from the very beginning and finally I found some time to upgrade my DCX2496. Besides PSU, upgrade is there some analog input upgrade info since I'm using the unit this way? What about XO upgrade? Is there any sonic difference between T.labs and Selectronic? Maybe some other XO😕
Stef, please check your mail🙂
Stef, please check your mail🙂
Hi folk!
The new batch of miniVreg kit, miniVreg 10-pack PCB are available. I also have some LT3080 TO220 in spare if you need them. I built some for another project.
Sill waiting for the new dedicated 120/240v toroid. They should arrive mid February.
Stephane
The new batch of miniVreg kit, miniVreg 10-pack PCB are available. I also have some LT3080 TO220 in spare if you need them. I built some for another project.
Sill waiting for the new dedicated 120/240v toroid. They should arrive mid February.
Stephane
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Well,it´s working now..
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The LM317/337 is producing the most heat,I messaured the current draw to 70mA,thats 0,245w and still so hot,hmmm..
I read the latest AudioXpress about shunt regulators..but thats later when all modds are done...
I tried to put the top on,and it do get hot after a while,so I will have to do a went hole,how did you yours so sqare?Jigsaw?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
After soldering the cables to the 7 pole dc plugg,I thought it would have been better to buy it with the leads already there,It´s SMAAL..
Lets hope it keeps together.
And it was a another improvement to the sound,a little airier soundstage,but not as DEQ...😉
The sound is still a little "hard",the next modd will be the regulators and the elyts around it.🙂
Ryssen said:
Hi Ryssen!
Nice setup. For 70mA (+ the leds) and around 20v at input, temp should be around 35°C, but LM3xx are definitely not efficient. What are the uF for the output caps ? Excessive heat is may be due to high ripple or "accumulated heat" around the heatsink. Sometime, it's better without heatsink.
Add a large ferrite around the power wires (the red cables after the PSU). This will minor ground noise of few db.
Ryssen said:
milling machine 😉
Good listening.
Stef...
ps: new pages on my site but not yet translated -> http://www.awdiy.com/index.php?page=minivreg-adjustable
VT67 said:
+ only for the miniVreg Adjustable, or use 2 bridges (cheap).
Look at this schematic for more idea with LT3080.
http://www.awdiy.com/uploads/pdf/LT3080-PSU-DIY-1.0.pdf
.
They are 330uF standard,have used them in some other construktions with LM317/337.
I did try without heatsinks om LM317/337 fisrt,I put my finger on them and I had no problem holding it there,so I will remove the sinks and try..
Great new, the new 2 x 120v toroid just arrived today. I added them on the site and will ship back ordered units this week.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
stef1777 said:
the quantity of heat given out by the regulators will not change whether there is a sink fitted or not. The internal temperature of the case will not change if there are sinks fitted or not.Ryssen said:
The temperature of the regulators will change with/without a sink fitted. The cooler the regulator the further away from the protection cutting in.
I suggest you keep the extra sinks to enable the regs to run cooler.
The efficiency of the 3xx regs is irrelevant until the mains voltage drops Vin to near drop out.
The 245mW quoted by Ryssen indicates that about 3.5V are being dropped across the regulator. Using any type of LDO regulator cannot change this. It will still be 245mW due the difference between Vin and Vout.
A second line of attack could be to convert the 3xx to CCS mode passing say 80mA. Then design the shunt reg to draw the excess 10mA. This would allow the active stages to draw upto 79mA. Would that cover worst case current draw in the circuits?
In fact, Ryssen said in a post later that the regs are hot but it can put its fingers on it. This means that their temp is around 30/40°C (or Ryssen is a strong man 😉 ). This temp is normal in this design and not a problem. I understood it first report as very hot (something as 65°C).
Heat sink is important but air cooling is also very important. If the heat sink are too close to components and that air can't move around. This "not moving" air will generate more heat.
Sorry, I don't have the right vocabulary sometime.
Temp pistol is a nice friend for this.
Ryssen: it will be better to move the large 4700uF green cap to the other side (on the left). Put it just on top of the DC/DC convertor is no the best.
.
Heat sink is important but air cooling is also very important. If the heat sink are too close to components and that air can't move around. This "not moving" air will generate more heat.
Sorry, I don't have the right vocabulary sometime.
Temp pistol is a nice friend for this.
Ryssen: it will be better to move the large 4700uF green cap to the other side (on the left). Put it just on top of the DC/DC convertor is no the best.
.
Yes,I am strong..but..😉 I removed the heatsinks and without the top it´s okay,but with it on,after a while it gets to hot,so I will do some went holes.
I messaured the input voltage to the reggs and its 19,2-3v so the power is actualy 0,294w..The 70mA current draw is with the selectronic
outputboard,it might be more with the original outboard (meny opamps..)Well I´m not a good constructor (yet)but i like the idea with shunt reg.(reading what people think of the sound,nothing in between
the PSU and the load.)
I will re angle the 4700uf.
I did compare DEQ and DCX yesterday,the DCX has more forward voices and middletones,a little harder sound,DEQ is softer,Whats best?
Just different.But the overall sound might improve after modding DEQ to.
I messaured the input voltage to the reggs and its 19,2-3v so the power is actualy 0,294w..The 70mA current draw is with the selectronic
outputboard,it might be more with the original outboard (meny opamps..)Well I´m not a good constructor (yet)but i like the idea with shunt reg.(reading what people think of the sound,nothing in between
the PSU and the load.)
I will re angle the 4700uf.
I did compare DEQ and DCX yesterday,the DCX has more forward voices and middletones,a little harder sound,DEQ is softer,Whats best?
Just different.But the overall sound might improve after modding DEQ to.
janneman said:
Welcome Jan to the world of Behringer PSU. 😉
An innovative and hot design. We hope to consult your design and schematics soon.
Stef...
ps : new pages on the minAnalog boards for the DEQ on my site.
Hey guys, I'm hoping to use a DCX2496 in my car. I plan to build a DC-DC psu as I don't like the idea of an inverter.
Now, after a quick read thru this thread, am I right in thinking I only need to generate these voltages?
This is for the DEQ, but I'm guessing the DCX is the same?
+15v -> 87mA
-15v -> 84mA
+9v -> 207mA
Total AGND: 378mA
Total DGND: 907mA
+5v -> 554mA
+3.3v -> 392mA
This should be pretty easy for me (I hope). I already have "Sproggy" DC-DC computer PSU which gives 5v @ 5A, and 3.3v @ 5A - Buck converters are used for these rails. The 12v line is a little more complex, as it still gives 12v when the car battery goes below this voltage. I think it's buck-boost.
For the +-15v rails, I could use a 7815 and a 7915 to step down from the +-24v rails in my amp. I'll heatsink these also as 9v is quite a lot of voltage to drop, even if the current is low.
I'm guessing the +-15v is for op-amps tho? If so, would there be a big problem using the +-12v lines from my computer PSU? I'm guessing the op-amps would have less voltage swing, but will this cause any issues? This would be a much better solution for me as I can fit the sproggy PSU into the DCX2496, as it's pretty small, and I wouldn't have to run power from my amp to my DCX. This means I can turn the DCX on first and avoid turn-on thump from the DCX.
For the 9v, I guess I could use a (heatsinked) 7809 from my 12v line, or even straight from the cars 14.4v electrical system... Any problems with doing this?
Finally, are there any issues with using a DC-DC PSU with this unit and still keeping the Behringer SMPS in the unit? Perhaps I could have a multipole-switch of relays to switch the unit between AC or DC operation?
Now, after a quick read thru this thread, am I right in thinking I only need to generate these voltages?
This is for the DEQ, but I'm guessing the DCX is the same?
+15v -> 87mA
-15v -> 84mA
+9v -> 207mA
Total AGND: 378mA
Total DGND: 907mA
+5v -> 554mA
+3.3v -> 392mA
This should be pretty easy for me (I hope). I already have "Sproggy" DC-DC computer PSU which gives 5v @ 5A, and 3.3v @ 5A - Buck converters are used for these rails. The 12v line is a little more complex, as it still gives 12v when the car battery goes below this voltage. I think it's buck-boost.
For the +-15v rails, I could use a 7815 and a 7915 to step down from the +-24v rails in my amp. I'll heatsink these also as 9v is quite a lot of voltage to drop, even if the current is low.
I'm guessing the +-15v is for op-amps tho? If so, would there be a big problem using the +-12v lines from my computer PSU? I'm guessing the op-amps would have less voltage swing, but will this cause any issues? This would be a much better solution for me as I can fit the sproggy PSU into the DCX2496, as it's pretty small, and I wouldn't have to run power from my amp to my DCX. This means I can turn the DCX on first and avoid turn-on thump from the DCX.
For the 9v, I guess I could use a (heatsinked) 7809 from my 12v line, or even straight from the cars 14.4v electrical system... Any problems with doing this?
Finally, are there any issues with using a DC-DC PSU with this unit and still keeping the Behringer SMPS in the unit? Perhaps I could have a multipole-switch of relays to switch the unit between AC or DC operation?
MikeHunt79 said:
Already done. Look at this link.
12V power supply for DEQ/DCX
http://never.net/powersupply/
.
Nice, thanks. It looks like he is using +-12v rails with no problems.stef1777 said:
The thing is I already have my computer DC-DC PSU up and running, and it gives all the needed voltages apart from 9v.
If the 9v really needed as it just goes to a 7805 doesn't it? What if I just bypassed the 7805 and put my 5v line to the 3rd leg of the 7805?
DCX linear supply
Pfff! Finished my linear replacement supply today.
So, now my DCX2496 has my active output/volume control board, Frank Oettle's digital input and +5V analog reg mods, and the replacement linear supply. And each step was an improvement.
Anyway, just wanted to mention it here, as I assume that it would also improve a DEQ2496 (haven't tried it though). Doesn't the DEQ2496 have the same stock SMPS power supply as the DCX2496 anyway?
Jan Didden
Pfff! Finished my linear replacement supply today.
So, now my DCX2496 has my active output/volume control board, Frank Oettle's digital input and +5V analog reg mods, and the replacement linear supply. And each step was an improvement.
Anyway, just wanted to mention it here, as I assume that it would also improve a DEQ2496 (haven't tried it though). Doesn't the DEQ2496 have the same stock SMPS power supply as the DCX2496 anyway?
Jan Didden
Re: DCX linear supply
Well they both use the same voltages, so I wouldn't be surprised if they used the same SMPS tbh.
janneman said:
Well they both use the same voltages, so I wouldn't be surprised if they used the same SMPS tbh.