If you hate desoldering the SMD parts, use similar method than this to power XMOS:
USB-B Adaptator cable for Power supply GX12 female 2 poles 75cm - Audiophonics
USB-B Adaptator cable for Power supply GX12 female 2 poles 75cm - Audiophonics
Good find, I think I actually have one of these with a DC barrel plug that I bought some years ago need to find it again
Does the dam1941 still truncate not dither when doing volume control?
Idk but I feel that volume control done via etc jriver using TPDF dither still sounds better even if the internal volume control in the DAC has more bits to work with due to the XMOS chip only exposing 16/24 output.
Idk but I feel that volume control done via etc jriver using TPDF dither still sounds better even if the internal volume control in the DAC has more bits to work with due to the XMOS chip only exposing 16/24 output.
Dunno. IME as soon as any real time DSP is required from JRiver the sound quality takes a dive.
Hello,
So i will come again to speak of my problems 😀
In Linux the problem is still the same. If the dac is on before i start linux, it is working, but if i power on the dac after linux is started, i need to unplug and plug again the usb cable. However it is working sometimes, i would say 1 time over 5. Not a bid deal but i am using linux for everything except game, and this problem already exist with the dac1101 so it's a long problem with the dam usb interface, would be great to correct it...
Also i got a problem in Windows. In some game (i see it in two different games, final fantasy 9 and endless space2) the sound is working but just stop for no reason. I need to restart the game to make it work. Also when the sound is not working in game, it is still working with everything else (navigator, sound system etc). Looks like a driver problem i suppose.
So i will come again to speak of my problems 😀
In Linux the problem is still the same. If the dac is on before i start linux, it is working, but if i power on the dac after linux is started, i need to unplug and plug again the usb cable. However it is working sometimes, i would say 1 time over 5. Not a bid deal but i am using linux for everything except game, and this problem already exist with the dac1101 so it's a long problem with the dam usb interface, would be great to correct it...
Also i got a problem in Windows. In some game (i see it in two different games, final fantasy 9 and endless space2) the sound is working but just stop for no reason. I need to restart the game to make it work. Also when the sound is not working in game, it is still working with everything else (navigator, sound system etc). Looks like a driver problem i suppose.
I’m trying to update the firmware of my 1941 board but am unable to get any response from the serial port runtime control. I’m using Tera Term with the same settings that I have just verified still work perfectly with my 1021. I have verified that my connections to the 1941 are correct. What am I missing?
Soren, page 5 of the dam1921/dam1941 Manual lists the Pin Description J8, Serial Console Headed as having Pin 1 for Ground; Pin 2 for RS-232 Serial Input, TTL Level; and Pin 3 for RS-232 Serial Output, TTL Level. When I connect the serial cable that works for my 1021, to the corresponding pins of the 1941, I get no response to the “+++” prompt. Please advise.
What setup do you currently have? Are you using the rs-232 on the 1021 or the isolated port? You need a cmos/ttl device with the 1941, so don't expect a direct connection to a real serial port to work.
As others already said, the serial port on a dam19x1 is ttl level. In fact, the dam19x1 is based on the dac1541, so this page on how to update firmware on the dac1xxx series is valid:
Soekris Engineering ApS, Downloads
Thank you for indicating the specific adapter that I need to do the job.
I have ordered a USB to TTL serial adapter which uses the FTDI FT232RL chip like the one you indicated worked out so well for you.
There's nothing like having the right tool for the job!
Waiting for a 1941 I ordered from the US supplier.
Had not noticed this TTL adapter cable which makes the whole thing really easy.
The computer I would want to use for this is further away than one meter. Would adding an extension cable cause problems? Any recommendations of how far one can go? I would like to be able to use an additional 2 meters of cable.
Is there any interference from this connection? Of course, I can find this out when it gets here but wondered if it is anything to be concerned about. As expected I would like to use the polarity switch which was unfortunately left off the front panel controls (oh, well ...) and wondered if it likely that one would hear a difference if the board remained connected to a computer. This computer is not being used for music storage. Would like to keep it connected for that.
I have seen isolated adapters for more money. Not that much - but the simplicity of the recommended cable would be preferred. But if there would be a benefit in using an isolated one ...
I have searched but must have missed it - what is the value of the WIMA capacitor used for a low pass filter. I want to replace it.
I have no intentions of doing to this board what I did to the last one. I doubt it is needed. Though I hope I continue to resist the temptation to remove the ceramics. I have used NPO ceramics as supply bypasses in a phono preamp - though much larger physically, and I do not hear them doing anything wrong.
Will be using the SALAS regulators. Sounds like everyone who has tried them has been satisfied with them.
Had not noticed this TTL adapter cable which makes the whole thing really easy.
The computer I would want to use for this is further away than one meter. Would adding an extension cable cause problems? Any recommendations of how far one can go? I would like to be able to use an additional 2 meters of cable.
Is there any interference from this connection? Of course, I can find this out when it gets here but wondered if it is anything to be concerned about. As expected I would like to use the polarity switch which was unfortunately left off the front panel controls (oh, well ...) and wondered if it likely that one would hear a difference if the board remained connected to a computer. This computer is not being used for music storage. Would like to keep it connected for that.
I have seen isolated adapters for more money. Not that much - but the simplicity of the recommended cable would be preferred. But if there would be a benefit in using an isolated one ...
I have searched but must have missed it - what is the value of the WIMA capacitor used for a low pass filter. I want to replace it.
I have no intentions of doing to this board what I did to the last one. I doubt it is needed. Though I hope I continue to resist the temptation to remove the ceramics. I have used NPO ceramics as supply bypasses in a phono preamp - though much larger physically, and I do not hear them doing anything wrong.
Will be using the SALAS regulators. Sounds like everyone who has tried them has been satisfied with them.
I did use a normal USB extension with no problems.
I always made the connections and downloaded / updated the firmware etc and then disconnected before hooking up the DAM1941 in my system, so I cannot comment on any interference. My computers are located in a different room to the Hi-Fi.
I always made the connections and downloaded / updated the firmware etc and then disconnected before hooking up the DAM1941 in my system, so I cannot comment on any interference. My computers are located in a different room to the Hi-Fi.