Why not use the I/V conversion method recommended by the official data sheet?
I think the resistors built into the AD1862 will be better.
Many of us have preferred resistor types that are a good fit for the desired sonic flavour. No idea how good the internal resistor is but somehow not holding my breath.
Yes, I used the I/V scheme shown on the datasheet.@CNOracle , do your board use the I/V design on the datasheet?
It works great.
Yes! This is probably the main factor.Not flexible. External resistor value can set the output voltage level from DAC 🙂
But the output level value of the internal resistor is suitable for most applications
Please forgive my not absorbing this threads nearly 600 pages. I am trying to mate the Miro 1.3 version of the board with JLSounds board, which is a newer galvanized isolated unit. The .pdf on their site and lack of DAC jargon has left me with a number of questions. It looks like the ideal board is the one with adapter and Opamps outputs, but I cannot find the gerbers for one that I have seen be created here recently. In any case, I could use a little help assuming I CAN hook up these two boards.
I am not sure what pins go where for Miro's 4,2...
Does the 11->4, and 15-2?
I wish to just do thse two things, and assume that jumpering the JLSounds board per screenshot will work H1.1->H3.17, H1.2->H3.19.
If someone can tell me if this setup will work good, and if so, if any errors (assumed) in my analysis.
I am not sure what pins go where for Miro's 4,2...
Does the 11->4, and 15-2?
I wish to just do thse two things, and assume that jumpering the JLSounds board per screenshot will work H1.1->H3.17, H1.2->H3.19.
If someone can tell me if this setup will work good, and if so, if any errors (assumed) in my analysis.
You should try the 2 or 4 layers version with the jlsounds header. You have just to plug in the usb board (stack). You should use the galvanic version with the front end feed bu the usb plug in a first time and the clean side with a PS or the +5V of the digital side of the ad1862 board.
Yes, I have a member who has already offered me a board. This sounds like I would be working from a better starting point.
I have a made the 4 layers pcb, smd focused, (for JLSOUNDS plug in or IanCanada I2S to PCM boards) but I sell it. Miro has made a 2 layers with the header your friend migth have given to you and I have made a 2 layers from it with smd for op amps. Gerbers inthe thread but don't remember where something in a post >8000 number. But the miro version is perfectly fine if you want to use a dip 8 op amp or if you hack the signal from it.
On the first page on this thread you have a link towards his blog that is very usefull with links going into the thread and also how to use the JLSOUNDS. Just few pages.
On the first page on this thread you have a link towards his blog that is very usefull with links going into the thread and also how to use the JLSOUNDS. Just few pages.
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Hello,
Just a moment of inattention... I soldered the 74HCT164D in the wrong orientation and damaged two pads while removing it. 🙁
It looks like the damaged solder pads are unused — am I correct?
Could you please confirm whether the chip will still operate correctly?
Thank you in advance!
Just a moment of inattention... I soldered the 74HCT164D in the wrong orientation and damaged two pads while removing it. 🙁
It looks like the damaged solder pads are unused — am I correct?
Could you please confirm whether the chip will still operate correctly?
Thank you in advance!
It is fine. But not sure if the chip itself will be operating properly after desoldering of such manner.
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