@analog_sa, https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...st-tht-i2s-input-nos-r-2r.354078/post-7756846
Look forward to have your input, please.
This may be a subjective question...but hopefully still aligned with this thread:
I just remembered that I have an Adcom GDA-600 DAC. (yes, I have too much stuff). It's based on a pair of PCM63P DAC chips. It uses a CS8412 receiver and a Burr Brown DF1700 8x oversampling chip. I/V conversion done with opamps (currently AD825s). Mine has been tweaked (replaced/upgraded electrolytics, upgraded opamps, and a few other things) - but not by me.
My question is this: Should I remove the PCM63 chips and drop them into one of Miro's fine boards and count my blessing for having a pair of these - or - continue to try and tweak the existing piece. Perhaps replace CS8412/DF1700 with an SP/DIF to I2s converter and replace the opamp I/V section.
Yes, I realize there is no "right answer" to this question but I would appreciate thoughts from this group who has WAY more experience than I do.
Cheers.
I just remembered that I have an Adcom GDA-600 DAC. (yes, I have too much stuff). It's based on a pair of PCM63P DAC chips. It uses a CS8412 receiver and a Burr Brown DF1700 8x oversampling chip. I/V conversion done with opamps (currently AD825s). Mine has been tweaked (replaced/upgraded electrolytics, upgraded opamps, and a few other things) - but not by me.
My question is this: Should I remove the PCM63 chips and drop them into one of Miro's fine boards and count my blessing for having a pair of these - or - continue to try and tweak the existing piece. Perhaps replace CS8412/DF1700 with an SP/DIF to I2s converter and replace the opamp I/V section.
Yes, I realize there is no "right answer" to this question but I would appreciate thoughts from this group who has WAY more experience than I do.
Cheers.
^ I have the same Adcom DAC. I left it alone to use as a comparison with Miro's solution. When I get Miro's up and running, I'll post some thoughts. Granted... it may take me a while.
removing the chips pose certain risks. those are precious chips to lose.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/28-pin-dac-desoldering.287353/#post-4625954
Few days back I had problem with one of the rails (-5V) on PSU 1 board for TDA1541, I changed the rectifiers of the supply, then instead of getting the out from soldered 7805/7905 I used the TS7A based dual rail supply configured for +/-5v, then I decided to use the other TS7A based supply configured for +/-12v.
Nutshell used two TS7A based PSU one for the +/-5 volts rails and one for the +/-12 volts rail, OPAMPS are the old burned LME49710HA (To Can type with heat sink, such a waste cant seem to find any more of these at a reasonable price) when I turned on the DAC, goodness me!
It was heavenly, I have still no idea what happened everything else is the same same old laptop, same old flacs by NFAK, RFAK, Lata, Rafi, Bryan Adams, Celine Dion, Kenny, same old Yamaha A1000 Poweramp, and same old speakers but the music is just unbelievable.
Nutshell used two TS7A based PSU one for the +/-5 volts rails and one for the +/-12 volts rail, OPAMPS are the old burned LME49710HA (To Can type with heat sink, such a waste cant seem to find any more of these at a reasonable price) when I turned on the DAC, goodness me!
It was heavenly, I have still no idea what happened everything else is the same same old laptop, same old flacs by NFAK, RFAK, Lata, Rafi, Bryan Adams, Celine Dion, Kenny, same old Yamaha A1000 Poweramp, and same old speakers but the music is just unbelievable.
I run on beer power supply on the hottest days of the year 😁 I can't use Rakija shunt supply, that one is for the colder days 😅
Something of a rarity in my part of the world.😉
here is the link of Aliexpress product I use this one, after this experience order 4 more 2 for AD1862, 1 for AD1865 and 1 extra.
Power Supply Module
If one wants to wait, i can release tps7 for 78xx 79xx pinout in september for diy. You can use on miro psu1. Not a big fan how ldovr did the layout, and his component choice.
The TPS7A chips are not DIY friendly as such, they need to be hot plated. You can get the basic regulator modules and make your own PSU.
Can you set also different values for + and -, so -15 +5V with the same board, or do they have to be necessarily symmetrical?