chinese version of Amanero/XMOS@NIXIE62 what is that tiny board on the back panel?
@rehanabid not that one. There is one tiny board with op amp and relay. Maybe a DC protection board?
Sorry, missed that one. Most likely it is as you mentioned.
DC protection board never worked for me, thus after two tries decided to use the DAC (TDA1541) without it, the catch is to turn on the AMP few seconds after the DAC and turn it off a few seconds before turning off the DAC.
DC protection board never worked for me, thus after two tries decided to use the DAC (TDA1541) without it, the catch is to turn on the AMP few seconds after the DAC and turn it off a few seconds before turning off the DAC.
@NIXIE62 I think we have the same chassis, except that mine is full silver in colour. Very small and sleek chassis. Everything need to be small and compact.
My Miro AD1865 Dac.
*Note: thanks to a kind friend who gave me a chance to try the Burson V7 op amp.
My Miro AD1865 Dac.
*Note: thanks to a kind friend who gave me a chance to try the Burson V7 op amp.
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Mute assembly with NE555 and relay, start delay of 4s and immediate shutdown. When the supply voltage drops enough, the opamp starts walking DC at the output, you don't want to send that to the premap potentiometer.@NIXIE62 what is that tiny board on the back panel?
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They look alike. The idea was to quickly assemble a USB only DAC as small as possible from the available parts, until I finish the big PCM63. I'm currently waiting for the display with the control board. It's been 20 days since it arrived at our post office and nothing has come of it yet.I think we have the same chassis
not pinning much hope on this. I think I will be just staring at the board and admire its beauty for years to come.Well, shift registers and opamps are not a problem, only PCM1704. 🙄
I haven't even looked at the PCM1704, there are no new ones just unsoldered and fakes, and that's the problem. I've been buying used desoldered AD1865's, it works like clockwork as it seems heat resistant. PCM1702 is definitely a better choice (only DIP16).
Selvilski Brijac... Yes the pcm1704 is less good than all the other ones discussed here, it has been said already here and elswhere numerous times.
A TDA1541A is better than a PCm63 and is only 16 bits, AD1862 is good second, third podium step (then AD1865, pcm56/58, this last two better), all the rest is brijati blah from things known from a long time. AD1865 can please you if the rest of the hifi is not good enough.
TDA1541A is pleasingbut well layouted on PS and I/V has not theromantic side some non educated and not experienced guys claim. The later Taiwann made are very neutral/fidel and beats the ad1862 on bass and all the others: precise and neutral sounding !
Nothing wrong to have a collection of DAC if you have time, though.
A TDA1541A is better than a PCm63 and is only 16 bits, AD1862 is good second, third podium step (then AD1865, pcm56/58, this last two better), all the rest is brijati blah from things known from a long time. AD1865 can please you if the rest of the hifi is not good enough.
TDA1541A is pleasingbut well layouted on PS and I/V has not theromantic side some non educated and not experienced guys claim. The later Taiwann made are very neutral/fidel and beats the ad1862 on bass and all the others: precise and neutral sounding !
Nothing wrong to have a collection of DAC if you have time, though.
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Did anyone test this i/v for miro tda1541 ?Hi Jim,
Yeah, your right. I don’t have the Molex KK crimps listed, sorry about that🙁
This is the part number: 08-51-0108LP (loose piece)
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/276/0008510108_CRIMP_TERMINALS-156256.pdf
Also, looking back at the thread, I never posted the manufacturing files for the OPA861 I/V output stage boards (inspired by P. Rogic’s Aya II DAC). These boards are 100% SMT with a few parts being tricky to solder for a first time smd project. Here they are with the supporting documentation:
I need the best i/v stage for tda1541 , can you help me ?
I find this tube stage , is it good for tda1541 ?
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the second one is better and went after. Just swap out the anti aliasing circuitry bellow the 47 uF resistor. There is a paper also you can find on the miro1360 blog linked on the first page that was written by Thorsten Loesch and may helps you too according your level knowledge.
Thorsten and Zoran and Alexandre members are rediscussing I/V modern circuitries and more in the few last pages here (rest is almost noise, concentrate your reads on those 3 guys):
Could be the ultimate TD1541A DIY circuitry due to Thorsten newest ideas : https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ate-nos-dac-using-tda1541a.79452/post-7539946
Begunn few pages ago, tubes circuitries and silicon ones are discussed. Thorsten Loesch is advising to go silicon finally but stays open to tubes as Zoran.
Thorsten and Zoran and Alexandre members are rediscussing I/V modern circuitries and more in the few last pages here (rest is almost noise, concentrate your reads on those 3 guys):
Could be the ultimate TD1541A DIY circuitry due to Thorsten newest ideas : https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ate-nos-dac-using-tda1541a.79452/post-7539946
Begunn few pages ago, tubes circuitries and silicon ones are discussed. Thorsten Loesch is advising to go silicon finally but stays open to tubes as Zoran.
wow man, do you have a cnc milling machine? I mean for the front panelWork in progress ... AD1862 USB DAC
A TDA1541A is better than a PCm63 and is only 16 bits, AD1862 is good second, third podium step (then AD1865, pcm56/58, this last two better),
It's very individual - what everyone likes.
As for me (AD1862 and TDA1541A)>>PCM56>PCM63>AD1865.
And of course, ahead of all this are AK4497, AK4499 (new), BD34301/352.
But for someone it may be opposite.
Alex.
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