BNC Box almost there.
Need to wire two LEDs to leads in power switch and fabricate cover. PCB and toroid are just on double sided tape as new R-Core should arrive in a few days.
If the jumper from board to socket needs more shielding, please post. It will be a fully metal enclosed box when completed.
Also, not sure what to do with AC earth/safety ground as it relates to the BNC ground. If earth gnd is attached does the BNC ground need to be isolated?
_
Need to wire two LEDs to leads in power switch and fabricate cover. PCB and toroid are just on double sided tape as new R-Core should arrive in a few days.
If the jumper from board to socket needs more shielding, please post. It will be a fully metal enclosed box when completed.
Also, not sure what to do with AC earth/safety ground as it relates to the BNC ground. If earth gnd is attached does the BNC ground need to be isolated?
_
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As a quick - down and dirty - reference to erin's last post, the "properties and issues" section of the Toslink Wiki page sheds some light. Pun intended.😀
Here's Wikipedia's short take on RG-59U.
It will be interesting to see if these old ears can detect a difference.
Here's Wikipedia's short take on RG-59U.
It will be interesting to see if these old ears can detect a difference.
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Hi All
Could somebody please direct me to the best eBay source for one of these DAC kits. I've done a search, and noticed quite a few variations - I want to be certain that I get the right one. Are the R-core transformers that the sellers are offering any good?
Thank you.
Could somebody please direct me to the best eBay source for one of these DAC kits. I've done a search, and noticed quite a few variations - I want to be certain that I get the right one. Are the R-core transformers that the sellers are offering any good?
Thank you.
Zoe Tsang - DAC 2496 (AK4393)+CS8416+AK4393+5532 Kit | eBay - is a long standing vendor who also offers the bare PCB with the key SMD chips pre-soldered. I paid $18 for mine. Good for those who want to use Dario's upgrade BOM.
Note their 99.3 vendor rating from eBay.
Note their 99.3 vendor rating from eBay.
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Thank you Bob.
Are there there any half-decent pre-assembled ones. I see them with yellow, grey and orange caps.
Are there there any half-decent pre-assembled ones. I see them with yellow, grey and orange caps.
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Would putting a Behringer Ultramatch Pro SRC2496 between my computer and this DAC improve anything? I'm thinking that even though its power supply is mediocre, the clock would be better than the one on my motherboard, and using it for "reclocking" the digital signal would thus reduce jitter?
And what about letting it upsample the signal to 96 kHz/24 bit? Would that bring any kind of improvement, or just worsen the sound quality?
Thanks for your help related to S/PDIF cabling, I bought some RG59/U instead. 🙂
And what about letting it upsample the signal to 96 kHz/24 bit? Would that bring any kind of improvement, or just worsen the sound quality?
Thanks for your help related to S/PDIF cabling, I bought some RG59/U instead. 🙂
vote toslink
Toslink may have more jitter, but with CS8416 that small amount of jitter does nothing. "It has an extremely low-jitter clock-recovery mechanism that yields a very clean recovered clock from the incoming audio stream".
Toslink is also 100% immune to noise or RF interference.
As a quick - down and dirty - reference to erin's last post, the "properties and issues" section of the Toslink Wiki page sheds some light. Pun intended.😀
Toslink may have more jitter, but with CS8416 that small amount of jitter does nothing. "It has an extremely low-jitter clock-recovery mechanism that yields a very clean recovered clock from the incoming audio stream".
Toslink is also 100% immune to noise or RF interference.
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Along1986090 is a good seller. Ships it from Singapore, so it arrives quick (1,5 weeks to the Netherlands).
And if you ask, he will pre solder the SMD components.
I did not try the R-core transformers. For that price, I can get two separate ones (one for analog and one for digital).
For the 15 V transformer, any block or toroidal can do. 2 x 15 V and 2 x 100 mA minimum.
For the 9V transformer, any block or toroidal will do. 5 VA is enough.
And if you ask, he will pre solder the SMD components.
I did not try the R-core transformers. For that price, I can get two separate ones (one for analog and one for digital).
For the 15 V transformer, any block or toroidal can do. 2 x 15 V and 2 x 100 mA minimum.
For the 9V transformer, any block or toroidal will do. 5 VA is enough.
Toslink may have more jitter, but with CS8416 that small amount of jitter does nothing. "It has an extremely low-jitter clock-recovery mechanism that yields a very clean recovered clock from the incoming audio stream".
Toslink is also 100% immune to noise or RF interference.
Ha ha you don't believe that do you ? 🙂 CS8416 is not good in recovering anything at all. Its crippled by too much functionality and it is not focussed on quality. If you guys would like this DAC chip to perform optimally you could think of using WM8804 or WM8805. That will be the mod of mods for this DAC.
Also, not sure what to do with AC earth/safety ground as it relates to the BNC ground. If earth gnd is attached does the BNC ground need to be isolated?
_
Yes ! Please isolate the BNC from the case. BTW I am not an expert but I think it would be beneficial to use a SPDIF transformer if the DAC is going to be connected with a computer as I see a ground loop there. Maybe a more experienced computer audio enthusiast can shed a light on this ?
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Ha ha you don't believe that do you ? 🙂 CS8416 is not good in recovering anything at all. Its crippled by too much functionality and it is not focussed on quality. If you guys would like this DAC chip to perform optimally you could think of using WM8804 or WM8805. That will be the mod of mods for this DAC.
Yes. WM8805 would be much better, but CS8416 is good enough for me.
I use 24bit/192kHz output to play 16bit/44kHz music.
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In my TE7022 board which is sold on ebay as an USB - S/PDIF converter, a miniature transformer on the S/PDIF output is present. So it isolates the ground of the computer or laptop.
The PC survived the Doctor ! 😀
First row Left to right:
1. RG-59 soldered to gold plated posts in socket. Goop silicon for stability.
2. Heat shrink for added protection.
3. Hot wire soldered as short as possible.
4. More Goop.
5. Pin out location.
Row two.
1. Pin closeup.
2. Adapter installed. Had to trim/shorten shell to assure good pin contact.
3. From the back.
4. Yellow RCA is regular S/PDIF out - above Toslink socket. Got all bases covered now.😉
5. 18 ft 75 ohm cable with compression ends. Wire was $0.26 / ft from Home Depot. Also made a 2 ft for less remote component placement.
PC is an Asus M4A79 Deluxe that doubles as a game box. Quad core Phenom II BE 3.4 Hz.
Main software is JRiver Media Center with server capabilities controlled by SmartPhones. F connector next to new BNC is input for Fusion dual TV receiver card.
The Toslink adapter recommended by Dario should arrive mid week and I be able to do some live comparisons. So far - about an hour - this new connection sounds fabulous. Super clean, dynamic and full spectrum.
_
First row Left to right:
1. RG-59 soldered to gold plated posts in socket. Goop silicon for stability.
2. Heat shrink for added protection.
3. Hot wire soldered as short as possible.
4. More Goop.
5. Pin out location.
Row two.
1. Pin closeup.
2. Adapter installed. Had to trim/shorten shell to assure good pin contact.
3. From the back.
4. Yellow RCA is regular S/PDIF out - above Toslink socket. Got all bases covered now.😉
5. 18 ft 75 ohm cable with compression ends. Wire was $0.26 / ft from Home Depot. Also made a 2 ft for less remote component placement.
PC is an Asus M4A79 Deluxe that doubles as a game box. Quad core Phenom II BE 3.4 Hz.
Main software is JRiver Media Center with server capabilities controlled by SmartPhones. F connector next to new BNC is input for Fusion dual TV receiver card.
The Toslink adapter recommended by Dario should arrive mid week and I be able to do some live comparisons. So far - about an hour - this new connection sounds fabulous. Super clean, dynamic and full spectrum.
_
Attachments
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Haik, I found my receipt and Along1986090 was actually the vendor who supplied my pre-soldered board - though Zoe has sent some good stuff also.
Sorry for any confusion,
Sorry for any confusion,
VT67 - I'm caught in the zone and can't find my way out.😱
Years ago a famous musician was asked "How do you play a great improvisational jazz solo". His answer was "Knowing what to leave out".
After more time with the BNC connection, what I am hearing is very similar. Though subtle, I can hear high clarification in the music. So often what at first sounds like "sparkle" and brightness, ends up being not accurate nor needed when it's taken away (the old less is more saw). The combination of this cable and proper termination clearly shows why so many studios have this installed.
I'm very impressed and grateful to all the posters for their contributions. The Toslink comparison will be very interesting.
Years ago a famous musician was asked "How do you play a great improvisational jazz solo". His answer was "Knowing what to leave out".
After more time with the BNC connection, what I am hearing is very similar. Though subtle, I can hear high clarification in the music. So often what at first sounds like "sparkle" and brightness, ends up being not accurate nor needed when it's taken away (the old less is more saw). The combination of this cable and proper termination clearly shows why so many studios have this installed.
I'm very impressed and grateful to all the posters for their contributions. The Toslink comparison will be very interesting.
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Bob,
Try to do a double blind test. And see what the difference is.
Make a switch that switches between the two systems. Ask your wife or any one else, to flip the switch, and record the position.
You should sit with your back to the person, so you should not see what position the switch is.
Try to do a double blind test. And see what the difference is.
Make a switch that switches between the two systems. Ask your wife or any one else, to flip the switch, and record the position.
You should sit with your back to the person, so you should not see what position the switch is.
Double blind is a great idea. When the Toslink module and the R-Core arrive I'll modify the new chassis to accommodate them both plus a switch. The way these boxes are constructed the side "U" channels and the floor can be extended to add space.
As to a helper - I'll have to pull in someone off the street .... being so wrapped up in DIY, I don't communicate with my local friends anymore, and my spouse .....
from a reply to an FE beta builder having Exchequer problems: "P.S. After the kids were grown, I traded my wife for a pair of Klipschorns and a big McIntosh power amp. A little extreme maybe, but I think I got a good deal. 😀"
As to a helper - I'll have to pull in someone off the street .... being so wrapped up in DIY, I don't communicate with my local friends anymore, and my spouse .....
from a reply to an FE beta builder having Exchequer problems: "P.S. After the kids were grown, I traded my wife for a pair of Klipschorns and a big McIntosh power amp. A little extreme maybe, but I think I got a good deal. 😀"
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Yes. WM8805 would be much better, but CS8416 is good enough for me.
I use 24bit/192kHz output to play 16bit/44kHz music.
Good enough ? That philosophy does not work in DIY audio. Aim for the best when building things yourself (it will cost more time and money anyway) or buy ready made stuff that is good enough 😉
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