Yes, looking good.
From a sound POV, ideally you want to round over the baffle edges to tame edge diffraction, and flush mount the drivers.
But it's looking very nice. How are you planning on finishing them?
From a sound POV, ideally you want to round over the baffle edges to tame edge diffraction, and flush mount the drivers.
But it's looking very nice. How are you planning on finishing them?
hmm i like the way it is at the moment lol 🙂 (quite like the constructional look with the plywood edges and the screws)
not sure how to finish it yet.
😎
not sure how to finish it yet.
😎
If you want that "construction" look you could use an oil finish to simply protect the wood. I used truck bedliner spray on mine as it covers almost all defects and even adds a little mass. If you wish to have the driver even with the front baffle and don't have access to a router you could add an additional front baffle panel that is the thickness of the driver flange. How are you enjoying the speaks? They really play low don't they?
yeah, the all i want the finish to to is to be hard wearing and not spoil the wood 🙂 (mabye a matt finish)
could glue a couple of thick veneers for the 4mm thickness.
yeah loving them, listening to my DC1000's afterwards they sound really boomy lol!
could glue a couple of thick veneers for the 4mm thickness.
yeah loving them, listening to my DC1000's afterwards they sound really boomy lol!
You could apply a couple of layers of wax and call it a dayinrank said:
😎
They sell Luan (mahogany plywood) board around here that matches the 4mm. Cheap, too. I've seen it lately for under $7 a sheet.
The FR125's make the Tannoy's sound boomy?lol
they only sound boomy because of the extra bass, after listening to the fr125S's, with their tight bass Lol
ok, taking advice for the next step, looking at bipoles....
1. adding another Fr125s or WR125s would increse the SPL to 89dB?
2. can i place the biple driver upwards as i only have 30cm from the rear wall?
3. could i mount it into my 11.5L box as a temp solution?
whats best?
1. adding another Fr125s or WR125s would increse the SPL to 89dB?
2. can i place the biple driver upwards as i only have 30cm from the rear wall?
3. could i mount it into my 11.5L box as a temp solution?
whats best?
ok, can i mount the second driver upwards due to the lack of space?
how will this affect the sound?
do i wire the second driver out of phase?
how will this affect the sound?
do i wire the second driver out of phase?
The box volume really should be doubled if you're using 2 drivers per enclosure, no matter where you put them, as Dave notes.
Having a second driver firing upward. Oh, I like. No, keep it in phase. Think about it, if you have 2 drivers in an enclosure, one wired in phase and the other wired out of phase, what will happen? One driver will move in by 1mm while another moves out by the same amount. So the enclosure won't actually be doing anything -no air is being moved or compressed.
Having an upward firing driver as well as a forward firing one is actually a pretty good move IMHO. Next best thing to bipolar operation when using 2 drivers per enclosure, and the best is you haven't got the house-room to pull them out a long way into the room (the upward-firing ones are a bit more forgiving of room placement). Castle Acoustics do it with their Howard S3 and Harlech S2. You get a semi-omni effect. You'll loose a bit of precision in the stereo imaging just as you do with bipole operation, but the soundstage you'll get is massive. A small resistor across the upward-firing driver to take its level down just a touch might be a useful tweak. Live recordings especially should sound good.
Having a second driver firing upward. Oh, I like. No, keep it in phase. Think about it, if you have 2 drivers in an enclosure, one wired in phase and the other wired out of phase, what will happen? One driver will move in by 1mm while another moves out by the same amount. So the enclosure won't actually be doing anything -no air is being moved or compressed.
Having an upward firing driver as well as a forward firing one is actually a pretty good move IMHO. Next best thing to bipolar operation when using 2 drivers per enclosure, and the best is you haven't got the house-room to pull them out a long way into the room (the upward-firing ones are a bit more forgiving of room placement). Castle Acoustics do it with their Howard S3 and Harlech S2. You get a semi-omni effect. You'll loose a bit of precision in the stereo imaging just as you do with bipole operation, but the soundstage you'll get is massive. A small resistor across the upward-firing driver to take its level down just a touch might be a useful tweak. Live recordings especially should sound good.
ah ok. thanks.
so should i go for somthing like the 25L sealed bipoles on - http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FAL/box-plans/Bipolar-bipoles.gif
and just add the rear driver on top instead rather than on the back?
so how far do you need behind a bipole?
so should i go for somthing like the 25L sealed bipoles on - http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FAL/box-plans/Bipolar-bipoles.gif
and just add the rear driver on top instead rather than on the back?
so how far do you need behind a bipole?
Depends on your room really. At least 2 feet, probably more like 3-4 I would say though. With an upward firing driver, probably a foot or so will be fine.
Bipoles have the notable advantage that you can mechanically couple the two magnets of the drivers together for push-push operation, which kills box-panel resonances stone-dead for the most part, and it also completely eliminates baffle-step problems. Having an upward-firing driver means you can't do push-push operation, and baffle-step is about in-between the mono and bi poles. It does counter with probably greater omnidirecionality across the whole frequency range though and greater ease of placement. If you wanted to go with that approach, I don't see any reason why you couldn't use Dave's cabinet, with the rear driver moved to the top if that's what you fancied doing. It's pretty well damped, so internal resonances should be controlled.
That said, Dave's bipoles are a proven design, and a heck of a good one at that. If you have the room, that's the best bet for a sealed enclosure IMHO. If you don't have that much space behind them, the upward-firing version is likely to be the next best option.
Bipoles have the notable advantage that you can mechanically couple the two magnets of the drivers together for push-push operation, which kills box-panel resonances stone-dead for the most part, and it also completely eliminates baffle-step problems. Having an upward-firing driver means you can't do push-push operation, and baffle-step is about in-between the mono and bi poles. It does counter with probably greater omnidirecionality across the whole frequency range though and greater ease of placement. If you wanted to go with that approach, I don't see any reason why you couldn't use Dave's cabinet, with the rear driver moved to the top if that's what you fancied doing. It's pretty well damped, so internal resonances should be controlled.
That said, Dave's bipoles are a proven design, and a heck of a good one at that. If you have the room, that's the best bet for a sealed enclosure IMHO. If you don't have that much space behind them, the upward-firing version is likely to be the next best option.
what if it was placed in a pawo style cabinet (just sealed, not a horn), but a little deeper, so the front driver was on the large side and then i could have around 2 ft to the back wall so i could use a conventional bipole?......
Again, depends on the resonant qualities of your room -it's size, construction, furnishings, floor covering, walls and so on. You might get away with it. But if you have a highly resonant room you might not. You might need something behind them to absorb a bit of the rearward energy.
I found vases with a 5in flange and capacity of 7 litres in QD for the princely sum of £5.99!
I lined them with Wickes flashing strip to damp the walls
Plan is to bolt them to a hollow wooden vertical post. The hollow bit being the port which will be tuned to 40Hz. See the T/S thread on the FR125S for details
I bought a drill for glass which apparently will cut through ceramic to make the port hole in the base
Will try and angle the port transitions so they do not go through 90 degrees
I lined them with Wickes flashing strip to damp the walls
Plan is to bolt them to a hollow wooden vertical post. The hollow bit being the port which will be tuned to 40Hz. See the T/S thread on the FR125S for details
I bought a drill for glass which apparently will cut through ceramic to make the port hole in the base
Will try and angle the port transitions so they do not go through 90 degrees
Attachments
Yuk, yuk, yuk. Chortle. Snivel (etc.) Now that's an idea I really wish I'd thought of. Nice dead material and an enclosure of the right volume with an irregular shape. I even reckon it looks good. And, cheap! How much do you think a commercial company would fleece people for if they did something like that? My guess would be ~£1000. If they can charge £1500 for a couple of power op-amps and a ropey power supply (total cost £50), then this would surely be fair game!
Brilliant stuff! I wonder if those reproduction amphoras down the local garden centre would work as a sub enclosure with the right driver and internal damping? Bet they would.
Regards
Scott
Brilliant stuff! I wonder if those reproduction amphoras down the local garden centre would work as a sub enclosure with the right driver and internal damping? Bet they would.
Regards
Scott
ok, so what about this...
both would have a volume around 20-25L and sealed.
using a FR125s on front and a WR125s on the back.
or this...
like the castle harlech, using a FR125s on front and a WR125s on the top.
both would have a volume around 20-25L and sealed.
using a FR125s on front and a WR125s on the back.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
or this...
like the castle harlech, using a FR125s on front and a WR125s on the top.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Well, of the two, I'd go with the second, with the upward firing driver, simply because you can place it nearer a rear wall. The bipole version you depict will need to be pulled further out into the room, and being relatively wide, will also be more obtrusive aesthetically. Swings and roundabouts really. Also, I don't think anyone's done one of the forward / upward types yet with the CSS drivers, so it'll certainly have originality.
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