update-
getting the Cabinet parts cut today.
had an idea to use dowel to hold the parts together while drying and it will also look cool when finished
getting the Cabinet parts cut today.
had an idea to use dowel to hold the parts together while drying and it will also look cool when finished
Hi inrank, I'm coming in late on this but personally I didn't like them sealed and ended up porting my 9l cabs.
I'm still finishing them and have some ideas for the filters, but then I'll post everything on www.madaboutsound.com website eventually. 😉
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I'm still finishing them and have some ideas for the filters, but then I'll post everything on www.madaboutsound.com website eventually. 😉
Hi, they look amazing!
what are the 2 ports for on the rear? for binding posts?
all my woods cut now, i have to wait till week monday to get them together beacause im going home for easter and i dont have enough space in my uni room.
with my design, do you think i will need a brace? ive cut one, but do i really need one?
what are the 2 ports for on the rear? for binding posts?
all my woods cut now, i have to wait till week monday to get them together beacause im going home for easter and i dont have enough space in my uni room.
with my design, do you think i will need a brace? ive cut one, but do i really need one?
Yes, I cut two chamfer holes for the binding post:
The port is tuned to 54Hz using a 40.5mm dia. 121.5mm long port IIRC.
I haven't really listened to them yet, but preleminary measurements show the bump at 100Hz with this tuning which may or may not need addressing (I much prefer the bottom extension and midrange to the overdamped sound of the sealed cab), and then of course there's the 1k and 7k humps. They look bad in the FR graphs but I don't think there's is definite need to install notches for them based on my brief listening trials.
edit: Re. Bracing. Yes always brace if you can. It's something you can only under-do, not over-do (within reason). I was just being lazy with my cabs and living to regret it.
"You can't over-die, you can't over-dry" - Seinfeld.

The port is tuned to 54Hz using a 40.5mm dia. 121.5mm long port IIRC.
I haven't really listened to them yet, but preleminary measurements show the bump at 100Hz with this tuning which may or may not need addressing (I much prefer the bottom extension and midrange to the overdamped sound of the sealed cab), and then of course there's the 1k and 7k humps. They look bad in the FR graphs but I don't think there's is definite need to install notches for them based on my brief listening trials.
edit: Re. Bracing. Yes always brace if you can. It's something you can only under-do, not over-do (within reason). I was just being lazy with my cabs and living to regret it.
"You can't over-die, you can't over-dry" - Seinfeld.
hi, thanks for that, will use the brace then.
any idea of the minimum and maximum power ratings for this driver/enclosure?
thanks
here is a pic of the speaker atm (not glued together)
(the black marks are from the bansaw where it burned slightly, but can be easly sanded off)
any idea of the minimum and maximum power ratings for this driver/enclosure?
thanks
here is a pic of the speaker atm (not glued together)
(the black marks are from the bansaw where it burned slightly, but can be easly sanded off)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Looks good. You must rebate the diver cutout so the driver fits flush.
Thermal power rating for the FR125S is 25-30w IIRC.
Thermal power rating for the FR125S is 25-30w IIRC.
I'm sure you can get 4mm ply, although probably not the most common size. I would assume it's way too thick as a veneer size.
Just something to consider: A router won't set you back much at all. Mine cost about £20 IIRC and came with about 5 bits. It would be enough to cut a rebate, chamfer the rear of the cutout, flush all glued sides on the cabinet, and roundover the baffle edges for all your future projects. Easily the most versatile enclosure building tool and I dare anyone to say different 😉
Just something to consider: A router won't set you back much at all. Mine cost about £20 IIRC and came with about 5 bits. It would be enough to cut a rebate, chamfer the rear of the cutout, flush all glued sides on the cabinet, and roundover the baffle edges for all your future projects. Easily the most versatile enclosure building tool and I dare anyone to say different 😉
i will see if i can get a cheap one
there is a router at the uni that i can use but there wount be anyone there for next week while im there. i am planning to use a rounover bit to curve the edges when i get back.
oh, do the speaker fasteners on your website fit the FR125s?
there is a router at the uni that i can use but there wount be anyone there for next week while im there. i am planning to use a rounover bit to curve the edges when i get back.
oh, do the speaker fasteners on your website fit the FR125s?
Yes, they fit fine. Make sure you don't glue the enclosure together till you drill the insert holes on the rear of the baffle 😉
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
will do, need to order the drivers and fasteners soon so that i can run them in😉
have you listened to them yet? how do they compare to your W3-871S Monitors?
thinking of mabye finishing them with a stain or somthing, would like to get a dark/reddish colour (rosewood style) for them if i can.....
have you listened to them yet? how do they compare to your W3-871S Monitors?
thinking of mabye finishing them with a stain or somthing, would like to get a dark/reddish colour (rosewood style) for them if i can.....
Vikash said:Perhaps use a thinner sheet of ply glued on top of the baffle with a larger size hole cut out?
or a layer of wool felt to the thickness of the driver bezel
dave
Vikash said:The port is tuned to 54Hz using a 40.5mm dia. 121.5mm long port IIRC.
I haven't really listened to them yet, but preleminary measurements show the bump at 100Hz with this tuning which may or may not need addressing (I much prefer the bottom extension and midrange to the overdamped sound of the sealed cab).
Based on my simulations I would try lower tuning to tame the bump at 100Hz. Around 35Hz works fine with the measured T/S.
What about BSC? Did you try it with the sealed box?
"or a layer of wool felt to the thickness of the driver bezel"
yeah that idea sounds good idea, cant seem to find any on the internet that thickness
yeah that idea sounds good idea, cant seem to find any on the internet that thickness
I didn't play much with the sealed box. I was unimpressed with the midrange when they were side by side with the 871's. Removing the stuffing helped a lot, and going ported was even better.
I'll have a good play with the alignment and filters once I finish this spray job.
Note to self: veneer next time.
I'll have a good play with the alignment and filters once I finish this spray job.
Note to self: veneer next time.
so if i did go ported, how can i work out what size and depth for the port? my volume is 10.5L and i dont really need too much bass.
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