thinking of mabye getting (in the future) a small amp to drive them, found these three...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Cyrus-One-Amp...9702974476QQcategoryZ3280QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SONIC-IMPACT-...9702793284QQcategoryZ3280QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/YARLAND-VALVE...703107591QQcategoryZ14973QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
it would be used to drive the FR125's and prob use my laptop as a source.
would love to make my own, but i dont know much about electronics, unless someone wants to make me one.....😉
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Cyrus-One-Amp...9702974476QQcategoryZ3280QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SONIC-IMPACT-...9702793284QQcategoryZ3280QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/YARLAND-VALVE...703107591QQcategoryZ14973QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
it would be used to drive the FR125's and prob use my laptop as a source.
would love to make my own, but i dont know much about electronics, unless someone wants to make me one.....😉
Does anyone know what the best cable for the internal wiring will be, looking at £5-£10 per metre max as i only need 50cm max for both speakers?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=743936#post743936inrank said:vikash, have you measured your own T/S parameters for the FR125 driver? if so what was the result?
inrank said:Does anyone know what the best cable for the internal wiring will be, looking at £5-£10 per metre max as i only need 50cm max for both speakers?
I've been using single separated strands of cryo-treated Cat 5 with good results. Metalman & i are going to be potting a group buy together on some of this.
dave
How many strands of cat5?
Have you tried ribbon cable like the 30-40 conductor type use for computer drives? Each adjacent conductor is at opposite polarity to keep inductance at a minimum.
Have you tried ribbon cable like the 30-40 conductor type use for computer drives? Each adjacent conductor is at opposite polarity to keep inductance at a minimum.
audioaficionado said:How many strands of cat5?
a pair, but pulled apart so they are separated.
Have you tried ribbon cable like the 30-40 conductor type use for computer drives? Each adjacent conductor is at opposite polarity to keep inductance at a minimum.
I have seen receipes for it, but not tired it. I have built a set of Jensen copper indictor foil speaker cables thou. We've yet to directly compare those to the single strand cryo Cat5 cables.
dave
Here's how mine are coming along after a weekend of sawdust and beer.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=879046#post879046
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=879046#post879046
just wondering wether to go for:
79strand £1.36 per metre
or is it really worth spending more?
(for a first time project)
https://secure.wilmslow-audio.co.uk/acatalog/Wilmslow_Audio_Loudspeaker_Cables_60.html
79strand £1.36 per metre
or is it really worth spending more?
(for a first time project)
https://secure.wilmslow-audio.co.uk/acatalog/Wilmslow_Audio_Loudspeaker_Cables_60.html
inrank said:just wondering wether to go for:
79strand £1.36 per metre
or is it really worth spending more?
(for a first time project)
https://secure.wilmslow-audio.co.uk/acatalog/Wilmslow_Audio_Loudspeaker_Cables_60.html
For this cowboy, no:
I've gone the route from Linn / Naim style heavy gauge multiconductor cable through the Nordost copper Flatline, to Chris Van Haus CAT5 monster braid projects, to small gauge single conductor (CAT5 or solid silver).
With reasonably efficient ( 90+ db) fullrange speakers (Fostex, Hawthorne Silver Iris, etc) and low powered SET or P/P tube amps, or the Class A mini-Aleph SS, I much prefer the single conductor for the speed, coherency and believe it or not great bass response.
In Canada, Home Depot sells the plenum rated (telfon insulation) CAT5 cable for under $2.00 per meter - when stripped out to the 4 individual pairs, that's less than $.50 per meter - just be aware that one of the pairs (brown & white) may be regular PVC insulation.
It also makes for great interconnects and internal signal wiring.
I won't get all mystical, but by using the same type and quantity of wire where ever possible in the electronics, from the amp terminals to the speaker and internally within the speakers, there's a maintenance of coherency that is only obvious by substitution. Change out to a high priced, multiconductor, silverplated copper with teflon insulation and NOS pixie dust sprinkles on the military grade forged tellerium copper spade connectors 😀 and things get audiophile on ya, but the emotional connection is diluted.
inrank said:79strand £1.36 per metre
When i was selling hifi we called that hi-quality 18 g rope -- the minimum we would sell or give out for speaker wiring). Whatever you use it needs to be high purity... one of the reasons for using Cat 5 is that it is a cheap source of VERY high grade solid core copper wire.
dave
I am with Chris and Dave on this one.
I havenot tried the high price cable myself but I have tried the very low price lamp cord stuff. The Cat5 wire is the stuff to go for. I tr to use it throughout the system.
Good luck
I havenot tried the high price cable myself but I have tried the very low price lamp cord stuff. The Cat5 wire is the stuff to go for. I tr to use it throughout the system.
Good luck
I used to work for Tara labs and they had stuff that sold for $12k / m and insane rich guys would fall all over themselves to buy it for the bragging factor.
I betcha that cat5 is every bit as good if not better.
So if there are three usable Teflon insulated conductor pairs per cat5 cable, how many of those pairs do you use for speaker cabling?
I betcha that cat5 is every bit as good if not better.
So if there are three usable Teflon insulated conductor pairs per cat5 cable, how many of those pairs do you use for speaker cabling?
audioaficionado said:So if there are three usable Teflon insulated conductor pairs per cat5 cable, how many of those pairs do you use for speaker cabling?
Use 1 pr and separate them.
dave
so what kind of CAT5 cable should i go for then?
http://www.maplin.co.uk/search.aspx...eria=Computer & Networking&doy=28m3&worldid=2
http://www.maplin.co.uk/search.aspx...eria=Computer & Networking&doy=28m3&worldid=2
yeah that would be great!
am going to order the stuff now!
(my names Rob) lol
P.S. what size are the connectors on the drivers? (2.8mm, 4.8mm or 6.3mm)
and should i get BAF wadding or Lambs Wool stuffing?
https://secure.wilmslow-audio.co.uk/acatalog/Wilmslow_Audio_Acoustic_damping_materials_4.html
am going to order the stuff now!
(my names Rob) lol
P.S. what size are the connectors on the drivers? (2.8mm, 4.8mm or 6.3mm)
and should i get BAF wadding or Lambs Wool stuffing?
https://secure.wilmslow-audio.co.uk/acatalog/Wilmslow_Audio_Acoustic_damping_materials_4.html
Hi there, Im just about to make some full rangrs using these drivers and could do with a bit of advice.
Im living in a quite small room in university halls and would like to make some speakers for music listening only. I dont have a subwoofer (I want to go for one driver in each cabinet only) and so would like to get the most bass I reasonably can out of these. Size of the cabinet isnt really an object and nor is effiviency since I wont be listning very loud.
I've been having a play with WinISD and have noticed that with a BR enclosure I can get the response flat down to about 50Hz before it rolls off sharply, whereas with sealed it starts to roll off at about 65Hz. Since most music only goes down to about 50Hz Im guessing that the BR enclosure is the way to go.
Another thing is that i see most people here are making 7 litre BR enclosures yet WinISD recommended ~16 litres so which is best to go with?
Thanks in advance.
Tom
Im living in a quite small room in university halls and would like to make some speakers for music listening only. I dont have a subwoofer (I want to go for one driver in each cabinet only) and so would like to get the most bass I reasonably can out of these. Size of the cabinet isnt really an object and nor is effiviency since I wont be listning very loud.
I've been having a play with WinISD and have noticed that with a BR enclosure I can get the response flat down to about 50Hz before it rolls off sharply, whereas with sealed it starts to roll off at about 65Hz. Since most music only goes down to about 50Hz Im guessing that the BR enclosure is the way to go.
Another thing is that i see most people here are making 7 litre BR enclosures yet WinISD recommended ~16 litres so which is best to go with?
Thanks in advance.
Tom
The connectors are 1/10" and 2/10". So 2.8mm and 6.3mm look the closest.
Personally I'd solder and forget about any connectors.
The Lambs Wool is the better stuff, but I generally just grab a pack of pillow stuffing from Dunelms. Too much stuffing in a sealed cab with the FR125s will be bad. Knock the cab with your knuckles and then add a small amount of stuffing and you will see how little it takes to absorb those frequencies well in small cabs. No need for anything special IMO.
OTTOMH Planet10 has a design for 13 litres BR on his site which is popular. I've tried 9 litres BR and there is a bass hump of a few db at 100Hz. So certainly don't go with 7 litres.
Personally I'd solder and forget about any connectors.
The Lambs Wool is the better stuff, but I generally just grab a pack of pillow stuffing from Dunelms. Too much stuffing in a sealed cab with the FR125s will be bad. Knock the cab with your knuckles and then add a small amount of stuffing and you will see how little it takes to absorb those frequencies well in small cabs. No need for anything special IMO.
OTTOMH Planet10 has a design for 13 litres BR on his site which is popular. I've tried 9 litres BR and there is a bass hump of a few db at 100Hz. So certainly don't go with 7 litres.
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