What do these Viawave SRT’s cost? Arm and and leg or firstborn child?
The waveguide version looks very nice and can cross at 2k.
http://viawave.ru/files/GRT-145W-8.pdf
The waveguide version looks very nice and can cross at 2k.
http://viawave.ru/files/GRT-145W-8.pdf
5” SB15CAC30-4 / Ceramic – Sbacoustics
-x2 in series (8 ohm net) to accompany the Accuton..
It should be better than this one:
SB Acoustics SB15NBAC30-4 | HiFiCompass
-and that one is crazy good (objectively).
I've no idea about modifying pricey driver frames (..though I've done so before on cheap frames).
The Satori would be excellent with the Scan Speak.. (..I'd personally prefer that subjectivly, and the total cost would be a lot cheaper.)
Doing on cheaper frames, was there any difference before and after the mod.
That SB15CAC30-4 is good but the enclosure requirement is bit high on capacity compared to Satori or Accuton as both are 2.3-2.6L sealed.
Budget is not an issue as long as I get better audio experience I can spend double or triple of what I am spending now. Definitely I am not crazy enough to spend $7K on pair of diamond tweeters(who does that). But from total budget of $30K for the entire living room(paint job + getting new sofas and center table + new TV + media cabinet + Receiver + Amps), I will have more than enough to get 9.2Ch setup whereas I am limiting it to 5.1Ch setup as it is enough for my small living room.
-and that's with VAT.
This is the correct SRT link though, without VAT for 240 Euros:
SRT-7 | Speakers Intertechnik - Shop - Shop
Doing on cheaper frames, was there any difference before and after the mod.
That SB15CAC30-4 is good but the enclosure requirement is bit high on capacity compared to Satori or Accuton as both are 2.3-2.6L sealed.
Budget is not an issue as long as I get better audio experience I can spend double or triple of what I am spending now. Definitely I am not crazy enough to spend $7K on pair of diamond tweeters(who does that). But from total budget of $30K for the entire living room(paint job + getting new sofas and center table + new TV + media cabinet + Receiver + Amps), I will have more than enough to get 9.2Ch setup whereas I am limiting it to 5.1Ch setup as it is enough for my small living room.
I'm guessing it depends on the modification and the particular driver. HOWEVER, you need to do this after taping-off the entire underside of the driver to make sure you don't get particles anywhere near the gap: get stuff inside there and you are screwed. 😉 (you should also tape-off the top of the driver as well, especially if it doesn't have a fully enclosed dust cap.)
Larger VAS, doesn't mean it can't be in a smaller enclosure - this is something you'll need to model to see if it works as you want. Generally a driver with a larger VAS in an enclosure smaller than that will give a slight "lift" around 100-150 Hz with a slightly sooner "roll-off" on the low-end: this can work in your favor if you don't need a lot of low bass extension.
I'm not sure cost is really an issue here when comparing drivers, each driver regardless of cost has certain "sweet-spots" with use and will have particular subjective results regardless of objective performance (..mostly due to membrane and edge damping of the surround).
In other words getting the "best" isn't necessarily getting the best for a particular application (objective) or "taste" (subjective).
I'd describe the Viawave ribbons the "best" at least objectively (depending on the model and use), but subjectively the sound the RAAL's produce is somewhat more "damped" sounding (thicker foil, non-pleated) and less "airy", and the particular type of transformer core can also play a part the overall subjective response.
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I'm guessing it depends on the modification and the particular driver. HOWEVER, you need to do this after taping-off the entire underside of the driver to make sure you don't get particles anywhere near the gap: get stuff inside there and you are screwed. 😉 (you should also tape-off the top of the driver as well, especially if it doesn't have a fully enclosed dust cap.)
Larger VAS, doesn't mean it can't be in a smaller enclosure - this is something you'll need to model to see if it works as you want. Generally a driver with a larger VAS in an enclosure smaller than that will give a slight "lift" around 100-150 Hz with a slightly sooner "roll-off" on the low-end: this can work in your favor if you don't need a lot of low bass extension.
I'm not sure cost is really an issue here when comparing drivers, each driver regardless of cost has certain "sweet-spots" with use and will have particular subjective results regardless of objective performance (..mostly due to membrane and edge damping of the surround).
In other words getting the "best" isn't necessarily getting the best for a particular application (objective) or "taste" (subjective).
I'd describe the Viawave ribbons the "best" at least objectively (depending on the model and use), but subjectively the sound the RAAL's produce is somewhat more "damped" sounding (thicker foil, non-pleated) and less "airy", and the particular type of transformer core can also play a part the overall subjective response.
Yeah it can be fit into smaller enclosure but with roll-off at comparatively higher frequency. As it is Satori rolls-off at around 115-120Hz and Accuton at around 95-100Hz. Going any higher will be bad as I have been told going any higher than 120Hz on Sub is bad(correct me if I am wrong).
Yes going higher is not always good. But as long as I can get the best with little of improvement from its competitors I can spend as much as required let it be high or let it be low. So, yes if there is recommendation that outperforms ScanSpeak or Accuton or SB Acoustics drivers listed above for lesser budget I will take recommendation. Not the performance per buck, they should outright perform better in producing more transparent and clear voice.
You can go up much higher in freq.. it's not a physically disconnected driver from the mid. and tweet, instead it's next to those drivers. Additionally, these are small diameter drivers with very good upper freq. extension.
I personally wouldn't take them higher than 800 Hz, but it's up to you.
In that respect, most of the "character" of a driver (beyond eff./force effects) happens above this freq..
If it were me (with a near-wall) placement, I'd be looking at what performs best as far as integration with the midrange in relation to the diffractive result of the freq. response from the midrange. (..in other words, measure what happens when the mid on the box is placed on a wall w/ a 6" depth and a tiny baffle.)
I personally wouldn't take them higher than 800 Hz, but it's up to you.
In that respect, most of the "character" of a driver (beyond eff./force effects) happens above this freq..
If it were me (with a near-wall) placement, I'd be looking at what performs best as far as integration with the midrange in relation to the diffractive result of the freq. response from the midrange. (..in other words, measure what happens when the mid on the box is placed on a wall w/ a 6" depth and a tiny baffle.)
I was talking about Sub-woofer when I said the max frequency going up to 120Hz.You can go up much higher in freq.. it's not a physically disconnected driver from the mid. and tweet, instead it's next to those drivers. Additionally, these are small diameter drivers with very good upper freq. extension.
I personally wouldn't take them higher than 800 Hz, but it's up to you.
In that respect, most of the "character" of a driver (beyond eff./force effects) happens above this freq..
If it were me (with a near-wall) placement, I'd be looking at what performs best as far as integration with the midrange in relation to the diffractive result of the freq. response from the midrange. (..in other words, measure what happens when the mid on the box is placed on a wall w/ a 6" depth and a tiny baffle.)
Yes the Mid-woofers will be integrated along Tweeter and Midrange.
I think I will crossover Mid-woofers at 300-400Hz depending on what I finalize as drivers.
Yeah will have to consider the baffle which is 6" width and 6" away from the wall. There is not enough space at the back of the enclosure for the waves to get trapped and not be deflected forward.
I am still unable to decide on midrange drivers as finding one which is transparent and clean is hard. But I think as ScottG quoted earlier Accuton is more transparent and clean than ScanSpeak while ScanSpeak is much warmer and natural. I think as I am aiming to get transparent and clean highs I might as well get Accuton which is more transparent.
As of mid-woofer I think I am more inclined towards Accuton C158-6-851 as it goes as low as 95-100Hz even with sealed enclosure of 2.3-2.5L. I think it would be better as I can limit the Sub-woofer to 100Hz so that localization effect is negated to some extent.
As of mid-woofer I think I am more inclined towards Accuton C158-6-851 as it goes as low as 95-100Hz even with sealed enclosure of 2.3-2.5L. I think it would be better as I can limit the Sub-woofer to 100Hz so that localization effect is negated to some extent.
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"warm" is more a function of freq. response. Neutral is perhaps the better term for the Scan. Again, though - ask HiFiCompass: he has some experience with both.
Note: with the 3-way with 2 suitable midbass 5"s: you don't need a low-pass unless you are playing them extremely loud with music that has wide-range dynamics. Those 2 5" are the equivalent of a 7" driver. If it's in a sealed design with a small volume then the natural pressure loss alone likely wouldn't require any high-pass at all. The mid. still needs it though.
Sub result then: maybe 70-80 Hz low-pass.
Note: with the 3-way with 2 suitable midbass 5"s: you don't need a low-pass unless you are playing them extremely loud with music that has wide-range dynamics. Those 2 5" are the equivalent of a 7" driver. If it's in a sealed design with a small volume then the natural pressure loss alone likely wouldn't require any high-pass at all. The mid. still needs it though.
Sub result then: maybe 70-80 Hz low-pass.
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