I only heard "Beth Hart & Joe Bonamassa - Your Heart Is as Black as Night" version of this song and it was and is amazing.
Although Melody Gardot is the writer.. 😀
I keep envisioning the cartoon where YOU spin around and around and around when you go twist the wire holding it in your hand.
Anyone thinking MORE POWER...
Over the A5s, the soundstage doesn't collapse as it gets louder, the bass really has balls (*), I can really hear into the voices better as they sing louder. It is just that much more dynamic. I don't think the "watts" tell the whole story, it's more about how much more current can be delivered across the audio band.
Note how when current gets limited, the first think you notice is the soundstage shrink.
Using my Rat Shack power meters, I was seeing peaks at 50w ( the stereo wasn't loud, it was Zappa's Jewish Princess and Dancing Fool ). It is obvious a studio mix, but Ratz! A good mix.
Pretty much, if you like the A5, this is a no brainer.
Hoff... hmm... I mentioned that to my wife, she thinks it's funny. What next, a Firebird with a funky light on the hood? A bunch of beach bunnies in red swimsuits? Hey, if I get a Firebird, and put a stereo with a couple of A2s, drive to Newport Beach and play a Hoff CD... will the beach bunny babes in red
swimsuits come over and party?
"Oh Tone, I love how well Hoff images in your car..."
Great build, great design... I'm taking these into the afterworld... deep inside my pyramid.
(*) This is Maggie Bass... so it has Wham!
Hi, I have a bunch of Aavid 4180G thermal interface pads. Would these be okay to use in place of the recommended Keratherm?
Thanks,
Alan
Thanks,
Alan
Alan, those pads are good. In addition to using good goop as ZM mentioned, you need to make sure you don't over torque the mounting bolts since it's possible to crack these pads.
Also, they are about 2mm think so you will want to use taller standoffs for the PCBs. (The nominal thickness of the pad + mosfet is already 7mm.)
Have fun with your build.
Also, they are about 2mm think so you will want to use taller standoffs for the PCBs. (The nominal thickness of the pad + mosfet is already 7mm.)
Have fun with your build.
I thought I remember reading in one of these threads that a Deluxe 5U chassis would be suitable for an Aleph 60 stereo build. Is this so or did I misremember? Do the pre-tapped heat syncs support both the main board and the expansion board on a single sync, or is more tapping needed?
Thanks,
Alan
Thanks,
Alan
Since you brought up the Deluxe 5U (It's BIG)..... I was just comparing the heat sinks in the Deluxe 5U with the Rawson enclosures...
Tim certainly went for smaller boxes but relatively huge ( 2" deep ) heat sinks. The heat sinks in the Deluxe chassis are about one inch deep and made up of thinner fins.
I wonder if a Deluxe Deep Heat Sink Chassis could be made at a 3U size? The interior sure looks like it could handle the innards that go into the A2 and the like, huh?
5U 500 deep would be a better choice. You’ll want the additional heatsink. It will require drilling and tapping.
If you try a 60 in the 5u deluxe (400) you’ll still need to do drilling and tapping to put the expansion board in. It will likely run very very hot.
How about two 5u deluxe as monoblocks, with the main board on one side and the expansion board on the other in each monoblock?
I built the Aleph 60 as monoblocks in the new monoblock chassis, which is essentially a narrow 4U 400. Input board on one side, expansion board on the other.
That's possible, but overkill. I've built A60 monos in 4U Deluxe chassis. Then there's Toadroller's narrow option, too.
Hello,
I have three questions regarding the ALEPH 60 build.
1) The build guide specifies "fat" and "thin" wires for connecting the main board to the expansion board. What guage wire would be suitable for the thin wire?
2) The BOM for the power supply specifies a thermostat for each channel. I see AddiDub has implemented them, but I don't see how they are wired in. Anyone know how they are wired?
3) Is there any reason that the power supply outlined in the Aleph 60 build guide would not be suitable for a class AB amp that calls for an unregulated PS of the same rail voltage as the Aleph 60?
Thanks,
Alan
I have three questions regarding the ALEPH 60 build.
1) The build guide specifies "fat" and "thin" wires for connecting the main board to the expansion board. What guage wire would be suitable for the thin wire?
2) The BOM for the power supply specifies a thermostat for each channel. I see AddiDub has implemented them, but I don't see how they are wired in. Anyone know how they are wired?
3) Is there any reason that the power supply outlined in the Aleph 60 build guide would not be suitable for a class AB amp that calls for an unregulated PS of the same rail voltage as the Aleph 60?
Thanks,
Alan
Fat/Thin. I used 16ga and 22ga and twisted. You could run all 16 if you want.
T-stat - in line with mains "line" wire.
I can't claim to be an expert of AB amp PSU's. Last AB amp I worked on was a B&K ST-140. It was a cap bank only, not CRC. Someone else may want to chip in on this topic.
T-stat - in line with mains "line" wire.
I can't claim to be an expert of AB amp PSU's. Last AB amp I worked on was a B&K ST-140. It was a cap bank only, not CRC. Someone else may want to chip in on this topic.
Hi Alan, I did not use thermostats from the BOM, it's more like a small thermoswitch that is connected to a chinese "soft start / temperature protection" module. The main reason I implemented this board was to use a 12V "vandal proof" switch, mounted on the front plate of the amp for convenience.
Instead of risking your amp, your house or your life by using the chinese modules I would propose to build the soft start module designed by Mark Johnson.