(Assuming you're replying to my build 😀 )
So far I've been quite happy with the build and have even done another one (with a 50ASX2SE).
The sound is very good overall. The bass isn't quite as hard hitting as the Emotiva (it is a lower wpc rating after all and the Amigas are quite inefficient) but the top-end has amazing clarity and I notice details that I've never quite gotten so clearly before. Even driven quite hard the amp barely heats up and distortion is minimal, though I'm sure I'll run into it sooner vs. the Emotiva if I go further.
Assembly was quite easy and took me only a few hours for the first one. The Ghent Audio chassis are quite nice, though the faceplate had a nick on it. They were happy to send a replacement for only the cost of shipping ($6) and all was well. The wiring harness was 90% configured correctly - you only need to do a few instances of soldering wires together to finish it.
My only wish is that it had 12V trigger built in or a standby mode, but these aren't terribly hard to add and I'll probably figure out how to do this next.
The next stage here is using this and the 50ASX2SE with a MiniDSP to set up a pair of active speakers using the TangBand W6-2313. I'll post here once that build thread is up.
Just submitted order
@ Zorz - Think it best to take an incremental approach in my use case. No sense sinking thousands of $'s if they don't work with my speakers. Watched the 123toid video so it seems I can handle this, so just ordered 200ASC and 200AC board as well as Ghent case. Plan is to connect to pair of Linn Majik 140 4 ohm speakers. Good luck on your next project using MiniDSP and TangBand full range woofer.
@ Zorz - Think it best to take an incremental approach in my use case. No sense sinking thousands of $'s if they don't work with my speakers. Watched the 123toid video so it seems I can handle this, so just ordered 200ASC and 200AC board as well as Ghent case. Plan is to connect to pair of Linn Majik 140 4 ohm speakers. Good luck on your next project using MiniDSP and TangBand full range woofer.
Yep! It's remarkably simple and you'll probably be quite happy.
A few tips:
1. Buy the wiring harness with the case from Ghent Audio
2. ALSO buy the wiring harness kit from Parts Express as well
This way you have the best of each set and can use the right one for the situation. The 123Toid video is only an overview, so you'll want to reference the manuals/datasheets on parts-express.com to make sure you have things wired up correctly.
Enjoy! 😀
Very nice work, congratulations!!
May I suggest you don’t cut the unused wire, you might need them eventually (ex +/- 12v supply output)
BR
Eric
May I suggest you don’t cut the unused wire, you might need them eventually (ex +/- 12v supply output)
BR
Eric
Thanks, Eric. Yeah; I probably shouldn't have cut them, but I usually don't tinker (too much) with stuff once its built...
The Ghent cases are nice, I just hope the second one shows up sometime so that I can listen to them, LOL...
limits
Great work!
As an FYI you can order express shipping from ghent. Usually gets you a week shorter shipping for only a few additional $.
Yesterday I just finished the case of my little bluetooth amp.
Its the electronical part on an Sony SRS-BTX300. So it has bluetooth standby fir only 0.1W power consumption and a 2x10W Yamaha YDA174 chip. Sound really good on my Canton Vento 820.2
Its the electronical part on an Sony SRS-BTX300. So it has bluetooth standby fir only 0.1W power consumption and a 2x10W Yamaha YDA174 chip. Sound really good on my Canton Vento 820.2
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Next amp.
6 channel IRS2092 with 36V power supply and PT2325 volume control.
Amp will be feeded by Teufel DecoderStation 5.
I will put some relay for bypassing volume controle on-demand like Yamaha Pure Direct.
Amp is based on IRAUDAMP5 with IRF6645 mosfets.
I will put some additional capacitor later.
Power supply looks to be enought for powering this amp easily :-D
6 channel IRS2092 with 36V power supply and PT2325 volume control.
Amp will be feeded by Teufel DecoderStation 5.
I will put some relay for bypassing volume controle on-demand like Yamaha Pure Direct.
Amp is based on IRAUDAMP5 with IRF6645 mosfets.
I will put some additional capacitor later.
Power supply looks to be enought for powering this amp easily :-D
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Still very much a work in progress. 2x IRS2092s and a - /+ 65v power supply. There is also a speaker protection board. I've been thinking of changing all the wiring to a suitable gauge solid core wire. This way I can do the wiring much more tidy then what it is now.
The enclosure is laser cut aluminium and extruded profiles for the sides.
I've noticed that at the speaker protection module the negatives of the audio signal have continuity to ground. Is this common practice? Should I ground this module through the standoffs to the chassis, or should I keep it floating?
The enclosure is laser cut aluminium and extruded profiles for the sides.
I've noticed that at the speaker protection module the negatives of the audio signal have continuity to ground. Is this common practice? Should I ground this module through the standoffs to the chassis, or should I keep it floating?
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Here it is my amplifier with 2x IRS2092S and 500W +/- power supply. It has a speaker protection module that is powered by the 0 - 15v output of the power supply.
I took off the fans from the amp modules because they were noisy. I have noticed the heat sinks run pretty hot. I am looking for a bigger heat sink that connects both modules and is bolted into the chassis somehow. Either that or running heat pipes from the heat sinks to the chassis. Recommendations are welcome
The case is laser cut aluminium with extruded aluminium sides.
The front panel switch is not connected yet. I have my doubts using this switch for mains power is a good idea. It also features an illuminated ring that is powered by 12v, and the connections run very close together. I was hoping to use this switch to switch some kind of relay that turns on the power to the psu. But have not figured out the best way to do this.
I also plan to add a 12v trigger input system so the amp turns on when the preamp turns on(a preamp and DAC In one enclosure will be a future project.
I will also use the 12vdc output of the psu to make a 12v trigger output that can turn on the subwoofer amplifier
I took off the fans from the amp modules because they were noisy. I have noticed the heat sinks run pretty hot. I am looking for a bigger heat sink that connects both modules and is bolted into the chassis somehow. Either that or running heat pipes from the heat sinks to the chassis. Recommendations are welcome
The case is laser cut aluminium with extruded aluminium sides.
The front panel switch is not connected yet. I have my doubts using this switch for mains power is a good idea. It also features an illuminated ring that is powered by 12v, and the connections run very close together. I was hoping to use this switch to switch some kind of relay that turns on the power to the psu. But have not figured out the best way to do this.
I also plan to add a 12v trigger input system so the amp turns on when the preamp turns on(a preamp and DAC In one enclosure will be a future project.
I will also use the 12vdc output of the psu to make a 12v trigger output that can turn on the subwoofer amplifier
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Hi Hofmann,
Those heatsinks on the amplifier modules are very small, even with these high efficiency amplifier modules, they are bound to get hot at sustained high output levels - this is why the fans were fitted in the first place. If I were you, I would re-arrange the chassis and mount the amplifier modules on either side of the chassis - remove the small amplifier heatsinks and use ~3mm or thicker aluminium Angle brackets to mount the amplifiers to the extruded side panels. Ensure that the bracket contacting area is flat (sanding with fine sandpaper) and also use some heat-conducting paste between the amp module and the bracket. The side panels should have sufficient area and not require fans for cooling.
This way you should have a quiet and cool running amplifier.
Those heatsinks on the amplifier modules are very small, even with these high efficiency amplifier modules, they are bound to get hot at sustained high output levels - this is why the fans were fitted in the first place. If I were you, I would re-arrange the chassis and mount the amplifier modules on either side of the chassis - remove the small amplifier heatsinks and use ~3mm or thicker aluminium Angle brackets to mount the amplifiers to the extruded side panels. Ensure that the bracket contacting area is flat (sanding with fine sandpaper) and also use some heat-conducting paste between the amp module and the bracket. The side panels should have sufficient area and not require fans for cooling.
This way you should have a quiet and cool running amplifier.
My XcD ver 3.5 ca. 2 x 300W @ 8 ohm
Latest amp. Would say I'm horning in on this class-d thing.
LM4562, IRS2092S, ZXGD3003E6, IRFB5620, T106-2 @22uH, Ø1mm, 1uF, dual fb / pre + post-filter fb. F switch = 380 kHz.
+-70 Vdc (500W SMPS from eBay)
Running really cool. Coil less than 40deg C @ 20 deg C ambient temp. No heat from Fets. @ Idle of course 🙂
Used an old AMP as enclosure (got a few scraped ones from my previous workplace).
Ready for installment in my main system. And at some point I'll try to do some measurements.
Latest amp. Would say I'm horning in on this class-d thing.
LM4562, IRS2092S, ZXGD3003E6, IRFB5620, T106-2 @22uH, Ø1mm, 1uF, dual fb / pre + post-filter fb. F switch = 380 kHz.
+-70 Vdc (500W SMPS from eBay)
Running really cool. Coil less than 40deg C @ 20 deg C ambient temp. No heat from Fets. @ Idle of course 🙂
Used an old AMP as enclosure (got a few scraped ones from my previous workplace).
Ready for installment in my main system. And at some point I'll try to do some measurements.
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Thanks Luka.
Well spottet 😉 Yes peak indicator, which detects how close the output is to the rail ... meaning that it is not bound to the input, and the peak value changes if you change to a different rail voltage. Here it is ca 4-5 volts from max rail.
A slightly modified circuit I found on the net, but quite useful 😉
Baldin
Well spottet 😉 Yes peak indicator, which detects how close the output is to the rail ... meaning that it is not bound to the input, and the peak value changes if you change to a different rail voltage. Here it is ca 4-5 volts from max rail.
A slightly modified circuit I found on the net, but quite useful 😉
Baldin
First DIY based on TPA3251
3E Audio : eaumt-0140-2-a (TPA3251)
Toroidal 24VAC made in Poland 300W
Unregulated PSU audiophile grade (4x 10000µF 50V, Nover caps)
O2 free Wires made in Germany
Micro ITX Case re-designed
220V circuit isolated at the top of the case
3E Audio : eaumt-0140-2-a (TPA3251)
Toroidal 24VAC made in Poland 300W
Unregulated PSU audiophile grade (4x 10000µF 50V, Nover caps)
O2 free Wires made in Germany
Micro ITX Case re-designed
220V circuit isolated at the top of the case
small discrete UCD
Hello,
My version of self-oscillating UCD amp, based on Philips / Putzeys patent.
Works from +-20V up to +-40V with switching freq. at ca 310Khz.
Idle consumption is ca 1W at 35V supply,
and no audible noise at the speaker 🙂
I will use 4 of them in my 2 nearfield monitors controlled by an ADAU1701
driving a 80W woofer and 15W tweeter, so no further cooling is requiered.
The first prototype, and the final version: 😉
Hello,
My version of self-oscillating UCD amp, based on Philips / Putzeys patent.
Works from +-20V up to +-40V with switching freq. at ca 310Khz.
Idle consumption is ca 1W at 35V supply,
and no audible noise at the speaker 🙂
I will use 4 of them in my 2 nearfield monitors controlled by an ADAU1701
driving a 80W woofer and 15W tweeter, so no further cooling is requiered.
The first prototype, and the final version: 😉
