@DUG - your tpa325x looks great! Have you done any comparisons to your tpa311x design?
I'm still running an amp based on your tpa3116 boards in our living room. I leave that amp powered on 24/7, and that's been the state since I built them, which looks like over four years ago!
I'm still running an amp based on your tpa3116 boards in our living room. I leave that amp powered on 24/7, and that's been the state since I built them, which looks like over four years ago!
I have a bunch of those cpu heatsinks but i cant fimd any aluminum fabricator that is willing to cut them to size. Planning to change the tiny heatsink that came with the tpa 3116d2 board that i ordered. But im not sure if theres any real world avantage going for a larger heatsink? Tia
This is a sleeper build of a pair of HX-M311 with passive tone controls, stuffed in a discarded SFX PSU case (125x100x64mm). The board is configured with 36dB which cause some hiss which can be heard a meter away. The main draw of this model is that the capacitors can be easily replaced. The only difference between this and the more popular 3118 mono board is the slight bump between 100~300hz. Although not as great as, say LM1875, this chip can provide high quality sound without making a dent in the electric bill.
Mods were very minimal; 1. removal of terminal block for power 2. lowering gain to 20dB (60kΩ input impedance) thru removal of 75kΩ resistor at GVDD
Only the boards and stand offs were new and the rest are from my old parts bin so don't mind the bottle cap and ice cream tub cover
Mods were very minimal; 1. removal of terminal block for power 2. lowering gain to 20dB (60kΩ input impedance) thru removal of 75kΩ resistor at GVDD
Only the boards and stand offs were new and the rest are from my old parts bin so don't mind the bottle cap and ice cream tub cover
Attachments
Picked up a couple ALC0240-2300 modules from a buddy and built a pair that are switchable between stereo and mono block.
Nice housing- which one is it?
sorry my stupid question - to switch from mono/stereo (bridged?) -i can´t see the switch
chris
sorry my stupid question - to switch from mono/stereo (bridged?) -i can´t see the switch
chris
The switch changes between:
Stereo - left and right inputs to left and right amp inputs
Bridged mono - left input to both left and right amp inputs
I just built a dual-mono amp this weekend with the excellent ICEPower 200ASC + 200AC boards and a Ghent Audio chassis.
Overall the experience was very smooth outside of having to mess around with soldering the binding posts. I used 123toid's video as a starting reference, but there were a few things I had to look up as he didn't go through all the details in his video.
After building it I then hooked them up to my pair of (admittedly hard to drive) Amiga MT's and compared them to my Emotiva A-300, with the MC-700 as preamp. Here are my impressions:
- The clarity was excellent. I noticed a lot of details that were harder to discern before, such as a dropped drumstick at the end of a track or a cough from a band member. Just lots of little things that were present before but not as revealed jumped out at me.
- The bass wasn't quite as full, though it did not lack in the clarity department. The Emotiva really wins here with just gobs of punchy, accurate bass. However, the ICEPower boards did deliver with reach (was able to hit cleanly at 35Hz) and not being too forward.
Overall, this was quite worthwhile and I'm going to be using this dual mono block as 1/2 of an active system using the Tang Band W6-2313 coaxial driver. I'm building a 50ASX 2-channel amp for the tweeters next and using MiniDSP as crossover.
The Class-D bug bit hard...I'm kind of glad!
Overall the experience was very smooth outside of having to mess around with soldering the binding posts. I used 123toid's video as a starting reference, but there were a few things I had to look up as he didn't go through all the details in his video.
After building it I then hooked them up to my pair of (admittedly hard to drive) Amiga MT's and compared them to my Emotiva A-300, with the MC-700 as preamp. Here are my impressions:
- The clarity was excellent. I noticed a lot of details that were harder to discern before, such as a dropped drumstick at the end of a track or a cough from a band member. Just lots of little things that were present before but not as revealed jumped out at me.
- The bass wasn't quite as full, though it did not lack in the clarity department. The Emotiva really wins here with just gobs of punchy, accurate bass. However, the ICEPower boards did deliver with reach (was able to hit cleanly at 35Hz) and not being too forward.
Overall, this was quite worthwhile and I'm going to be using this dual mono block as 1/2 of an active system using the Tang Band W6-2313 coaxial driver. I'm building a 50ASX 2-channel amp for the tweeters next and using MiniDSP as crossover.
The Class-D bug bit hard...I'm kind of glad!
Attachments
zorz - looks great! One small suggestion: your AC power lines (looks like red and black wires) should be twisted. Since you're using connectors (rather than soldered wires), should only take a few minutes to twist those.
While I'm not 100% sure of what you're referring to here, I do know that cases can be ordered from Ghent Audio as well as eBay.
As small aside; Ebay Clone Dact type stepped (SMD) Attenuators are surprisingly good items.
Better imo than than MY Ebay Alps blu pots ..of which most All available are clones these days. Stickers/claims notwithstanding.
Alps hasn't mfg'd a blu pot for years 😉
PS Those ICE things look like they've been bombed by seagulls... too much White yuck.
Better imo than than MY Ebay Alps blu pots ..of which most All available are clones these days. Stickers/claims notwithstanding.
Alps hasn't mfg'd a blu pot for years 😉
PS Those ICE things look like they've been bombed by seagulls... too much White yuck.
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I have made cap mod of my small tpa3116 amp.
Big ones under pcb are some chinese 4700uF (probably fakes nichicons but comments on alliexpress were ok).
On the front of pcb I have also changed caps for some JAMICON 1000uF (bought in local store). All caps are Low ESR.
After change I have noticed that bass is a little bit better.
The next mod I will do: add some small radiator on the back of pcb under tpa3116 --> when sometimes I turn volume loud radiator is really hot 🙂 for daily use it is ok, but probably not for party mode 🙂
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Amps work with khadas tone board DAC + POLK AUDIO S15 speakers 🙂 I searching right now for some quality tpa3116 2.1 to add maybe subwoofer for movies.
Big ones under pcb are some chinese 4700uF (probably fakes nichicons but comments on alliexpress were ok).
On the front of pcb I have also changed caps for some JAMICON 1000uF (bought in local store). All caps are Low ESR.
After change I have noticed that bass is a little bit better.
The next mod I will do: add some small radiator on the back of pcb under tpa3116 --> when sometimes I turn volume loud radiator is really hot 🙂 for daily use it is ok, but probably not for party mode 🙂
ImgBBB - Upload Image — Free Image Hosting
ImgBBB - Upload Image — Free Image Hosting
ImgBBB - Upload Image — Free Image Hosting
Amps work with khadas tone board DAC + POLK AUDIO S15 speakers 🙂 I searching right now for some quality tpa3116 2.1 to add maybe subwoofer for movies.
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Seems a pretty straight forward build and looks very tidy inside. Thanks for sharing you have given me some inspiration to get off the dime. My home theater needs new amps and the ICEPower amps should work well with my 4ohm Linn speakers. I need 11 channels and if I am reading the specifications correctly 4 200ASC and 7 200AC should get the job done. Probably will split up boards between 2 separate enclosures.