Hi all I am having pretty severe corrosion on the mag drivers and even though the speakers still sound fantastic there are pinholes in the drivers and they look quite terrible. I was wondering if anyone has tried the Nextel drivers instead and what changes that would require. I would be willing to build new cabinets and alter the crossover if I can keep the same quality of sound. I do not want to replace with the mag cones again. but would like to be able to use the crossover and the tweeter.
Hi thank you I think those are still magnesium. the magnesium drivers corrode really bad in my environment near the ocean.
In their whitepaper on the Graphenedrivers they say it's a better corrosion protection. Hard to say if it works though?
Don't think you will find a drop in replacement for this driver. Maybe get some SB Acoustics aluminiumdrivers and make a purposebuilt filter for them and your Excel tweeter?
Don't think you will find a drop in replacement for this driver. Maybe get some SB Acoustics aluminiumdrivers and make a purposebuilt filter for them and your Excel tweeter?
I ran the Nextel on xsim with the thor crossover and as far as \I can tell it looks pretty close. At least the FR does. They look a little flatter and have less of the spike than the mag has. I am leaning toward the nextels as a replacement anybody tried it yet?
maybe move the sound system out of the wine cellar 🙄
or maybe a dehumidifier in the same room would help reduce the oxidation.
I keep the Strats in the the wine cellar the thors weren't big enough. The area the speakers are in have had higher humidity for part of this summer as my dehumidifier stopped working in July and was replaced the end of August. Up until then we have been between 60 and 40, Since I noticed the problem I have lowered the humidity to 40% year round. My wife has Asthma so we almost always have climate control either air conditioning dehumidify or heat. My area never hits 30c and the inside of my house never hits 20c The system is in the basement but we have a split level so the basement is less than 4 feet in the ground and there is an 8 ft window and a 30 in window in that room. We do live very close to the ocean and the salt air maybe a factor. I would like to know if anyone has tried the Nextel woofer as a direct replacement.
This is interesting, my family has asthma too and humidity helps them, cold is their worst enemy.
In Ottawa the basement gets damp around the foundation walls, other than that most of the year the humidity in the house is always low because we either heat or cool the air. It is a challenge to keep instruments in tune and in good shape.
I have been able to help by placing plants around the house and close to my piano.
my advice to speakers is that the nextel will be sounding completely different.
The best way to predict this is to place the response curves into a simulator, it should appear right away that you need to redo the whole XO from scratch.
In Ottawa the basement gets damp around the foundation walls, other than that most of the year the humidity in the house is always low because we either heat or cool the air. It is a challenge to keep instruments in tune and in good shape.
I have been able to help by placing plants around the house and close to my piano.
my advice to speakers is that the nextel will be sounding completely different.
The best way to predict this is to place the response curves into a simulator, it should appear right away that you need to redo the whole XO from scratch.
I just am having trouble trying to bring myself to buy the magnesium again. I think I am going to buy the Nextel and work on it from there. If I have to I will redo the crossover. I do not have simulation software. I tend to buy or build and hold when it comes to speakers. I built a set of mar-ken trapezoids for the living room and the thors for the music room and I thought I was done. I did buy a very expensive dehumidifier when the old one went out. That was before I saw the speakers.
In thedrawing of the Small Thor there is no measure of how far up the vent port is supposedto be mounted. I have read the entire thread, and run through it again, but can’tseem to find the answer anywhere.
1)Is it notcritical how far up it is mounted (back/rear)?
2)Is it supposedto be flush with the bottom?
H
Hello
I don't know where I read it anymore, but if I'm not mistaken, the center of the port vent must be 100 mm above the inner bottom.
I believe you should find this link interesting:
SEAS Thor | Index to threads
Best regards
Carlos
I don't know where I read it anymore, but if I'm not mistaken, the center of the port vent must be 100 mm above the inner bottom.
I believe you should find this link interesting:
SEAS Thor | Index to threads
Best regards
Carlos
Mine is 4 " from inside bottom. I had help from people more knowledgeable than I when I did my build. Scottmoose, Dave and Renron and many others walked me thru the build. Small Thor
I put Reputes on the bottom and lifted the cabinet by 4 inches using a stand. This way it was influenced less by placement.
Thanks,
I’m building the small Thor, and have started cutting the 19mm MDF.
Center of the port 4”/10 cm from inner bottom seems to be the right position then.
I’m going to lift the cabinet up from the floor by 7 cm. Probably by using some kind of stand.
Thanks for the link
I’m building the small Thor, and have started cutting the 19mm MDF.
Center of the port 4”/10 cm from inner bottom seems to be the right position then.
I’m going to lift the cabinet up from the floor by 7 cm. Probably by using some kind of stand.
Thanks for the link
Rubber protection on the woofers
The build is moving slowly but forward There is one thing I seem to not find an answer for, can some of you with more experience than me in speaker build help me out?
The woofers have a rubber protection on the back of the magnet. Earlier in the thread it has been mention that the braces should be close-fitted with the woofer for support. Should I remove the rubber protection and make the braces support the magnet/woofer frame directly or should I let I stay on?
And when the wooers is mounted with the screws, it will be pressed a fraction more inwards than when I just hold it in place for checking if it fits. Should it be some pressure on the back of the woofer to the braces, or should I leave a small gap (couple of tenth of an mm) so the woofer just getting flush with the braces when screws are tightened?
A
The build is moving slowly but forward There is one thing I seem to not find an answer for, can some of you with more experience than me in speaker build help me out?
The woofers have a rubber protection on the back of the magnet. Earlier in the thread it has been mention that the braces should be close-fitted with the woofer for support. Should I remove the rubber protection and make the braces support the magnet/woofer frame directly or should I let I stay on?
And when the wooers is mounted with the screws, it will be pressed a fraction more inwards than when I just hold it in place for checking if it fits. Should it be some pressure on the back of the woofer to the braces, or should I leave a small gap (couple of tenth of an mm) so the woofer just getting flush with the braces when screws are tightened?
A
Hello
According to the recommendations of the most knowledgeable, drivers must press the rear structure sufficiently to transmit vibrations to that structure, but not in a way that stresses the basket.
I hope it helps.
Best regards
Carlos.
According to the recommendations of the most knowledgeable, drivers must press the rear structure sufficiently to transmit vibrations to that structure, but not in a way that stresses the basket.
I hope it helps.
Best regards
Carlos.
I do not expect tthe plastic cover will be an issue at the frequecies most of interest.
The fit is trickey to get, ideal to fine tune it with a side off. It is easier to shim than to remove most of the time, sam shims of venner or even a piece of paper. Chris got so good at it i rarely had to adjust after he delivered cabs. One buid did need just a single piece of paper. You do not want to stress the basket/driver or not have. atight fit. (Carlos pointed out the same :^)
Do not overtighten the screws. Only just as much as is needed to stop a real or imaginary washer.
dave
The fit is trickey to get, ideal to fine tune it with a side off. It is easier to shim than to remove most of the time, sam shims of venner or even a piece of paper. Chris got so good at it i rarely had to adjust after he delivered cabs. One buid did need just a single piece of paper. You do not want to stress the basket/driver or not have. atight fit. (Carlos pointed out the same :^)
Do not overtighten the screws. Only just as much as is needed to stop a real or imaginary washer.
dave
Thanks forreplying so fast.
I will tryto keep the rubber protection on, if I can get a proper fit. Since the rubberis somewhat flexible I assume I can have a bit tighter fit (let the rubber compressapproximately a couple of tenth of an mm), as the rubber will flex some and notput on an instant pressure as a direct fit on the frame would. Or would eventhat be to munch pressure?
Dave, yourcontribution is amazing. Thanks again for being so patient and sharing so much knowledgeto us with lesser knowledge.
I will tryto keep the rubber protection on, if I can get a proper fit. Since the rubberis somewhat flexible I assume I can have a bit tighter fit (let the rubber compressapproximately a couple of tenth of an mm), as the rubber will flex some and notput on an instant pressure as a direct fit on the frame would. Or would eventhat be to munch pressure?
Dave, yourcontribution is amazing. Thanks again for being so patient and sharing so much knowledgeto us with lesser knowledge.
?
Also how much baffle step is there now in this design.
Is this now considered to be the best crossover for the Thor.
Also how much baffle step is there now in this design.