I don't know for sure but I would think that combining the drivers and modeling them at one location is providing a better response then what really will occur, very optimistic result. The pipe modes will occur at the same specific frequencies and have the same shapes. For the higher modes, the pressures on the back of two drivers will be different, due to the different positions axially, leading to different SPL output from each driver, I can't believe that this will be an advantage. To get the real answer I think I need to complete the modeling but this won't happen anytime soon. Any thing else is guess work in my opinion.
ssabripo said:
Yes indeed. If you insist on the tapered geometry. Don't put these floor-firing jobs anywhere near a corner though! Unless you want massive bass of course... You can do just as well with the MLTL versions though -a touch less bass extension (only 2-4Hz or so) but easier to build and a flatter response.
Best
Scott
Scottmoose said:
No, I think I will just do a copy of the fat thor as is.....
One stupid question I have (yes, I know, I'm running out of stupid questions since I've asked so many...
) is where do you attach the X-over to? I was planning on just attaching it to the middle brace, towards the bottom, and have the wire connectors towards the bottom as well.Also, where would one buy some really neat metal or Aluminum spikes to put on it...I'm thinking of either buying one or building one like this (rather than making the bottom plate to bring the height up):
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hi
I have the old version of the Odin speakers with W17E-002 drivers. I want to rebuild the enclosure and make the Thor. I need some help though and I’d like to ask somebody more familiar with the TL designs to recalculate the dimensions of the Fat Thor for me. I mean the variant from post #113. The parameters of my drivers are close to those of the Thor speakers but unfortunately are not identical. You can see them below.
Thank you very much in advance.
Regards
Asen
Seas Excel W17E-002 parameters:
Nominal Impedance – 8 Ohms
Characteristic Sensitivity – 87 dB SPL
Voice Coil Diameter – 39 mm
Voice Coil Height – 14 mm
Air Gap Height – 6 mm
Linear Coil Travel (p-p) – 8 mm
Maximum Coil Travel (p-p) – 19 mm
Magnetic Gap Flux Density – 0,88 T
Magnet Weight – 0,42 Kg
Total Weight – 1,63 Kg
Voice Coil Resistance – 6,4 Ohms
Voice Coil Inductance (Equivalent) – 0,40 mH
Force Factor – 7,8 N/A
Free Air Resonance – 34 Hz
Moving Mass – 15,5 g
Air Load Mass IEC Baffle – 1,0 g
Suspension Compliance – 1,4 mm/N
Suspension Mechanical Resistance – 1,5 Ns/m
Effective Piston Area – 126 sq. cm
VAS – 29,5 Litres
QMS – 2,40
QES – 0,37
QTS – 0,32
I have the old version of the Odin speakers with W17E-002 drivers. I want to rebuild the enclosure and make the Thor. I need some help though and I’d like to ask somebody more familiar with the TL designs to recalculate the dimensions of the Fat Thor for me. I mean the variant from post #113. The parameters of my drivers are close to those of the Thor speakers but unfortunately are not identical. You can see them below.
Thank you very much in advance.
Regards
Asen
Seas Excel W17E-002 parameters:
Nominal Impedance – 8 Ohms
Characteristic Sensitivity – 87 dB SPL
Voice Coil Diameter – 39 mm
Voice Coil Height – 14 mm
Air Gap Height – 6 mm
Linear Coil Travel (p-p) – 8 mm
Maximum Coil Travel (p-p) – 19 mm
Magnetic Gap Flux Density – 0,88 T
Magnet Weight – 0,42 Kg
Total Weight – 1,63 Kg
Voice Coil Resistance – 6,4 Ohms
Voice Coil Inductance (Equivalent) – 0,40 mH
Force Factor – 7,8 N/A
Free Air Resonance – 34 Hz
Moving Mass – 15,5 g
Air Load Mass IEC Baffle – 1,0 g
Suspension Compliance – 1,4 mm/N
Suspension Mechanical Resistance – 1,5 Ns/m
Effective Piston Area – 126 sq. cm
VAS – 29,5 Litres
QMS – 2,40
QES – 0,37
QTS – 0,32
SSabripo - If you happen to know somebody with one of these get them to send a couple of rounds in your direction. It is then a simple matter of creating the cutout in the shell to fit against the top & side of the box .
To get the enclosure to the correct height it needs to be about 115mm off the ground. This means Looong spikes. Why not extend the enclosure slightly and have a separate enclosure below the T/L for mounting the XO. This way you can still use your spikes as well as have a nice spot for your XO. Binding Posts @ the bottom sounds like a good idea to me.
. To get the enclosure to the correct height it needs to be about 115mm off the ground. This means Looong spikes. Why not extend the enclosure slightly and have a separate enclosure below the T/L for mounting the XO. This way you can still use your spikes as well as have a nice spot for your XO. Binding Posts @ the bottom sounds like a good idea to me.
Actually, not as mad as it sounds. The supervisor of my PhD has a litter-bin made of what was once a 12" naval shell that, according to myth, went through Jutland in HMS Agincourt. It was live then of course...
The original ML Fat Thor cabinet should do well for those drivers mentioned above, but try a 1" long port. Probably your best bet would be to initially cut some 3" pipe to different lengths, and see what works best in your own room.
Best
Scott
The original ML Fat Thor cabinet should do well for those drivers mentioned above, but try a 1" long port. Probably your best bet would be to initially cut some 3" pipe to different lengths, and see what works best in your own room.
Best
Scott
I don't currently have the ability to build a set of speakers (no shop access) and I would like to have a pair of fat thors. Is there anyone here who could build me a pair of finished enclosures for a reasonable price? I am looking to spend less the the $600 madisound asks for the regular enclosures.
A shop isn't that necessary you know. You could get your local materials supplier to cut the panels to size -most should be able to do that for a fairly minimal cost. Then simply assemble at home. All you'd need would be a few cheap clamps, glue, a router / jigsaw for the cutouts (doesn't have to be expensive). Note that Bob Brines didn't have a shop to start off: just a landing covered in a dust-sheet, and he didn't do so badly:
http://www.geocities.com/rbrines1/Pages/minimum_tools.html
As for finishing, well, if you chose MDF, then painting can be done in the great outdoors, veneering done inside in perfect safety using the method Bob describes here: http://www.geocities.com/rbrines1/Pages/Veneering.html
Alternatively: spend a little more on the base material and get some nice birch ply, and then celebrate the fact that it is ply: plywood can be truly beautiful; take a look at this pair of Ariels and the subsequent pages:
http://www.iol.ie/~waltonaudio/ariel1.html
I'm not sold on their overall shape, but the construction is lovely, and achieved with hand-tools at that. Just add a couple of coats of stain once you'e done, and a coat or two of tung oil to get a nice, soft finish, and you're there.
OK, these are large cabinets, and they might take over for a few days whilst building, but hopefully that's not impossible: you'd be unlikely to even think about other speakers for a decade or so. Call it 10 days construction time. Around 3640 days in a decade... doesn't look so bad considered that way!
Best
Scott
http://www.geocities.com/rbrines1/Pages/minimum_tools.html
As for finishing, well, if you chose MDF, then painting can be done in the great outdoors, veneering done inside in perfect safety using the method Bob describes here: http://www.geocities.com/rbrines1/Pages/Veneering.html
Alternatively: spend a little more on the base material and get some nice birch ply, and then celebrate the fact that it is ply: plywood can be truly beautiful; take a look at this pair of Ariels and the subsequent pages:
http://www.iol.ie/~waltonaudio/ariel1.html
I'm not sold on their overall shape, but the construction is lovely, and achieved with hand-tools at that. Just add a couple of coats of stain once you'e done, and a coat or two of tung oil to get a nice, soft finish, and you're there.
OK, these are large cabinets, and they might take over for a few days whilst building, but hopefully that's not impossible: you'd be unlikely to even think about other speakers for a decade or so. Call it 10 days construction time. Around 3640 days in a decade... doesn't look so bad considered that way!
Best
Scott
If I still had access to my old table saw and router then I would have no problem building a pair of these out of baltic birch. I also think I could get these cut and together in one day with the right tools. I have done projects like that before. The problem with the local places to get wood is that the best cut I have ever gotten from them was upto 1/2" off and usualy at leas 1/4" off. I'm kinda hoping somone someone on this site sees this who lives near me that could possibly cut the wood.
Actualy now that I think about it I might be able to get somone at my old job to cut them for me. I am going to have to look into this a bit more. If anyone is in the chicago land area and is willing to do all the cuts for me please send me a message.
Actualy now that I think about it I might be able to get somone at my old job to cut them for me. I am going to have to look into this a bit more. If anyone is in the chicago land area and is willing to do all the cuts for me please send me a message.
Why does it need to be so high off the ground if you are using spikes? You are using a 3" tube with a surface area of the port being about 7sq". With the dimentions of the enclosure being 9"X20 7/8" with even 2" off the ground you would have about 60sq". If you were your recomended 150mm or 6" you would have 180sq" for the tl to exit to. Is there something I am missing here? Is the real problem the tweeter height?
anyone think this THOR model can be done using the seas excel w18nx models??
I have a 4 laying around and wanted to try this (along with 4 seas 27TBFC/G lol)
anyway just wondering is folks think the thor is a good housing for the nextel 7" drivers
I was going to build bookshelves, but I just like the High tower look for my living room, versus small 2 ways on stands
I have a 4 laying around and wanted to try this (along with 4 seas 27TBFC/G lol)
anyway just wondering is folks think the thor is a good housing for the nextel 7" drivers
I was going to build bookshelves, but I just like the High tower look for my living room, versus small 2 ways on stands
Thor XO
I finally tamed the Thor .. its very obvious that the speaker are to strong in the 4-5 khz electric guitars and vocals sounded like knifes in my ears... so I find a formula on one of thoose fact pages they call it resonance filter it is capacitor and inductor in series adding them up toghter in a formula and you will get a number that number is a frequency where the impedance will be the greatest ,
My filter is set to 4438 HZ doing this filter in paralell with the tweeter and then of course adding an resistor in series with the cap and inductor , the resistor value will adapt the db that is lowered in my case I found 10,5 to be about right ( I will tweakmore for sure)
The frequency and amount depends on equipment and room of course its individual to every setup.
This thingy will lower the impedance in that freq area can be a problem for weak or poor amps since it is in the higher freq area it carries low power so it should be ok for most amps (?)
If any one needs more info feel free to add me to msn.
And yes i did try the intertech evo4 bogus filter blowing 80 bucks for nothing it did sound like **** .the guy who put this on the internet should give me my 80 bucks back
I finally tamed the Thor .. its very obvious that the speaker are to strong in the 4-5 khz electric guitars and vocals sounded like knifes in my ears... so I find a formula on one of thoose fact pages they call it resonance filter it is capacitor and inductor in series adding them up toghter in a formula and you will get a number that number is a frequency where the impedance will be the greatest ,
My filter is set to 4438 HZ doing this filter in paralell with the tweeter and then of course adding an resistor in series with the cap and inductor , the resistor value will adapt the db that is lowered in my case I found 10,5 to be about right ( I will tweakmore for sure)
The frequency and amount depends on equipment and room of course its individual to every setup.
This thingy will lower the impedance in that freq area can be a problem for weak or poor amps since it is in the higher freq area it carries low power so it should be ok for most amps (?)
If any one needs more info feel free to add me to msn.
And yes i did try the intertech evo4 bogus filter blowing 80 bucks for nothing it did sound like **** .the guy who put this on the internet should give me my 80 bucks back