Hello ttan,
Thanks for the kind words...
I mentioned that the power supply is tricky (for novices only) and is a disclaimer for people looking at my Audiogon page - I don't want anybody electrocuting themselves on my account.
http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?vevol&1146370182&view
The Lowther threeway is fabulous, it is very transparent and communicates the music well. I agree that all FR drivers need help with bass hence the Eton TL woofer boxes. However, the treble response from the DX-3 is 98% satisfactory and the Raven is there just to sweeten things up and give a bit more extension and air.
As to building a two way speaker, in my experience the Lowther DX-3 just about beats any conventional cone drivers I've heard. And, I've heard some pretty good ones (as you can see from all the pics on my Audiogon link). I know people may not agree with me, but the Lowther sounds more accurate, faster and produces decay notes better than most cone drivers.
The Lowthers just don't sound boxy at all and, their point source attributes instantly connects you with the musicians, normal speakers (except planars) struggle to do this unless they are a top-notch design with the most expensive drivers. Taken in this context, the Lowther present good value and takes you from A-Z in hi-end terms almost instantly, there's no mucking around with crossovers nor do they need humungous expensive amplifiers(the humble Gainclone is excellent with them)). Of course all just IMHO ...
Regards,
Steve M.
Thanks for the kind words...
I mentioned that the power supply is tricky (for novices only) and is a disclaimer for people looking at my Audiogon page - I don't want anybody electrocuting themselves on my account.
http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?vevol&1146370182&view
The Lowther threeway is fabulous, it is very transparent and communicates the music well. I agree that all FR drivers need help with bass hence the Eton TL woofer boxes. However, the treble response from the DX-3 is 98% satisfactory and the Raven is there just to sweeten things up and give a bit more extension and air.
As to building a two way speaker, in my experience the Lowther DX-3 just about beats any conventional cone drivers I've heard. And, I've heard some pretty good ones (as you can see from all the pics on my Audiogon link). I know people may not agree with me, but the Lowther sounds more accurate, faster and produces decay notes better than most cone drivers.
The Lowthers just don't sound boxy at all and, their point source attributes instantly connects you with the musicians, normal speakers (except planars) struggle to do this unless they are a top-notch design with the most expensive drivers. Taken in this context, the Lowther present good value and takes you from A-Z in hi-end terms almost instantly, there's no mucking around with crossovers nor do they need humungous expensive amplifiers(the humble Gainclone is excellent with them)). Of course all just IMHO ...
Regards,
Steve M.
Finally simple cheap car chipamp ready
Had a TDA1552Q lying around unused and got 1 pair of 12inch 4ohm paper woofers with reasonable small magnet, i decided to build a simple chipamp with it for the woofs.
I can choose a lineair output or active (TL072) filtered output @100Hz.
Cooler from a server, case from doorstep profile nice laquered, good filtering with panasonic and wima caps, gold plated cinches, simple and very small. Made a simple clip indicator with a red led, powered on speaker output with a rect. diode, 4.7V zener and a 2.2uF across led, it even works!
Had a TDA1552Q lying around unused and got 1 pair of 12inch 4ohm paper woofers with reasonable small magnet, i decided to build a simple chipamp with it for the woofs.
I can choose a lineair output or active (TL072) filtered output @100Hz.
Cooler from a server, case from doorstep profile nice laquered, good filtering with panasonic and wima caps, gold plated cinches, simple and very small. Made a simple clip indicator with a red led, powered on speaker output with a rect. diode, 4.7V zener and a 2.2uF across led, it even works!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
... and inside the beast, 400VA toroid, 2 LM3886, 3 x 4700uF per rail, +/-30V power supply, 2x22k log russian pot with loudness correction (works very good). Schematic was taken from Rod Elliot's site and only some minor adjustments were made. Noise and hum are not audible, even if I stick my head on the speaker (92dBm). Everything was made on veroboard.
Attachments
Re-Cased a recent build
Had alot of complaints on another forum about the case so decided to re-do it!
Used an USB Disk drive case as it was a very good fit....😀
Hope you like:
Pics not brill as wife has decent camera🙄
Had alot of complaints on another forum about the case so decided to re-do it!
Used an USB Disk drive case as it was a very good fit....😀
Hope you like:
Pics not brill as wife has decent camera🙄
ratza said:
Cheers - used a kit from Audiodigit - http://www.audiodigit.com/index.php?section=106
Will get a proper torroid, but using a PSU from a laptop!
Got it plugged in to an old Audiolab 8000A using it in power amp mode, so getting the 'tube' sound added - sweet.
😎
A while back I had a thread about here gathering info on some active ZD5s. Well, I won;t go into the reasons, but I decided to build an amp instead and the ZD5s ampless
Case is from Modushop.biz 230x230x80 with heatsinks as sides which is very handy.
Built in USB DAC from dddac.de (thoroughly recommended!)
Alps 10k motorised log pot
Remote board from Altronics in Australia
Discrete transistor buffer as detailed on Nuuk's site
It's not the neatest, I'll agree, but the grounding scheme (despite being a bit of a mish mash) really works and it's silent as a mouse and sounds absolutely fantastic.
Amps are held on with bull clips atm as I left my AS ceramique at my other house and I'm aware I still need to deal with the safety earth. I only finished this afternoon...
Case is from Modushop.biz 230x230x80 with heatsinks as sides which is very handy.
Built in USB DAC from dddac.de (thoroughly recommended!)
Alps 10k motorised log pot
Remote board from Altronics in Australia
Discrete transistor buffer as detailed on Nuuk's site
It's not the neatest, I'll agree, but the grounding scheme (despite being a bit of a mish mash) really works and it's silent as a mouse and sounds absolutely fantastic.
Amps are held on with bull clips atm as I left my AS ceramique at my other house and I'm aware I still need to deal with the safety earth. I only finished this afternoon...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I think it looks nice Valleyman. My hybrid looks a complete mess inside when it's opened, your amp looks way way better.
http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/8430/hybridtm7.jpg
http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/8430/hybridtm7.jpg
Unfortunately it seems I spoke too soon. The small transformer has started buzzing and is causing an audible buzz on the speakers, especially the one whose output is next to it.
I have currently only listened to it on a small test speaker so I'll see how it sounds when I have it rigged up to my newly constructed ZD5s and decide if it's worth replacing. If it doesn't interfere with my lestening I don't think I'd see the need.
The only other problem is the amp smells of electrolyte. Replaced the rail caps on BrianGTs amps with 1000uF and idiotically put the ones between the negative rails and gnd in the wrong way round leading to some reassuringly loud explosions, a lot of smoke and fluid all over the bottom of the case...
I have currently only listened to it on a small test speaker so I'll see how it sounds when I have it rigged up to my newly constructed ZD5s and decide if it's worth replacing. If it doesn't interfere with my lestening I don't think I'd see the need.
The only other problem is the amp smells of electrolyte. Replaced the rail caps on BrianGTs amps with 1000uF and idiotically put the ones between the negative rails and gnd in the wrong way round leading to some reassuringly loud explosions, a lot of smoke and fluid all over the bottom of the case...
I had a reversed lytic also once in my diy history. Cleaning the pcb and removing all residues is the most difficult.
Another little pic of it all sealed up sitting atop my little mATX PC source and next to one of the MA GR10s it currently drives... soon to be replaced with ZD5s
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Latest toy
Wow, lots of nice amps.
Here is my latest 3886, fresh from the parts bin.
7/10
Wow, lots of nice amps.
Here is my latest 3886, fresh from the parts bin.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
7/10