Love your setup Emery, I have a set of Frugal horns as well.
Since I inadvertently put this in the wrong spot initially, I am putting it here now 😀
This is my dual mono LM3886 with the BrianGT chipamp boards, as well as a few fun little upgrades. Super thick aluminum tube frame chassis powdercoated cream, toroid covers powdercoated brick red, and figured maple dyed a deep red and gloss finished. It's purdy
You'll notice the exquisite DIYAudio soft start board in there
For lots more pictures and details, visit DIYAudioBlog.com - Gainclone
Long live the Chipamp!
Since I inadvertently put this in the wrong spot initially, I am putting it here now 😀
This is my dual mono LM3886 with the BrianGT chipamp boards, as well as a few fun little upgrades. Super thick aluminum tube frame chassis powdercoated cream, toroid covers powdercoated brick red, and figured maple dyed a deep red and gloss finished. It's purdy
You'll notice the exquisite DIYAudio soft start board in there
For lots more pictures and details, visit DIYAudioBlog.com - Gainclone


Long live the Chipamp!
Love your setup Emery, I have a set of Frugal horns as well.
Since I inadvertently put this in the wrong spot initially, I am putting it here now 😀
This is my dual mono LM3886 with the BrianGT chipamp boards, as well as a few fun little upgrades. Super thick aluminum tube frame chassis powdercoated cream, toroid covers powdercoated brick red, and figured maple dyed a deep red and gloss finished. It's purdy
You'll notice the exquisite DIYAudio soft start board in there
For lots more pictures and details, visit DIYAudioBlog.com - Gainclone
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Long live the Chipamp!
Beautiful work!
My P2P gainclone photos and my first post ever😀
Initially built PD 3875 Premium kit, very good sounding amp especially the mid and high. I managed to break one of the pin after messing around and rendered the chip useless. While shopping for a replacement, I bought a whole bunch of LM3886TF chips instead as it's on special for just a little bit over A$5 bucks each from my local supplier, thinking I may use the rest to build something funky down the track. Anyway here is my amp.
As for the sound, I would not say I like it that much, for some reason it doesn't sound as good as PDs kit, it sounds just like any other amps I've heard, not that I've heard many amps though😛
Spec:
dual mono LM3886
2 x 300VA 25vx2 Trafos
Mix of boutique and al-cheapo passive components.
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Bweaut construction mate and it blends in nicely.
EmeryBB, nice system. Smart looking.
Thanks Mark.
Love your setup Emery, I have a set of Frugal horns as well.
Long live the Chipamp!
Love the FH, the only complaint is that the sound stage is confined in between two speakers, nothing beyond that. It's OK with Jazz or vocal but no good for big ensemble or some sort. I don't think it is the AMP, I tried it on my friend's ProAc 2.5 clone, it made a huge sound stage albeit shallow, anyway...
I love your old school style, something I really like. Love those crazy caps too, must cost a bomb hey 😱, I thought they were transformers initially.😀 I still got a whole bunch of chips left, probably gonna build something looks like an old school guitar amp during X'mas break.😀
Bweaut construction mate and it blends in nicely.
Thanks, the amp case is made from the off cuts of the DIY cabinet under the TV, and I was too lazy to stain/paint them, thats why they blend in.😀
As small observation there is some possibility that your Lm3886 Chips are Poorly Made Chinese Fakes.
North American price for REAL Lm3886 chips is ~10$ Each.
Could go a long way in 'splaining' your less than stellar performances?
North American price for REAL Lm3886 chips is ~10$ Each.
Could go a long way in 'splaining' your less than stellar performances?
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As small observation there is some possibility that your Lm3886 Chips are Poorly Made Chinese Fakes.
North American price for REAL Lm3886 chips is ~10$ Each.
Could go a long way in 'splaining' your less than stellar performances?
Unlikely, I got it from my local equivalence of Farnell (used to be called Farnell AFAIK). In order to get that price I have to buy at least 5, I bought 10 to qualify for free shipping. Even LM3875TF can be less than A$10ea. I was going to get the Chips from Chipamp.com but given the low Aussie dollar, it didn't make any sense to buy from the US.
I think it's more to do with the added Input cap and Feedback Cap. Peter Daniels kit is DC Coupled without those 2 caps.
EmeryBB, yes, they look very good.
Your bridge rectifiers will be getting hot, quite hot. Hope you know that.
Gajanan Phadte
Your bridge rectifiers will be getting hot, quite hot. Hope you know that.
Gajanan Phadte
EmeryBB, yes, they look very good.
Your bridge rectifiers will be getting hot, quite hot. Hope you know that.
Gajanan Phadte
Why would they be?
Yes, they do get hot and so is the reason for the metal body so that you mount them on a metal chassis or a heatsink. Wood mounting is not good and increases the bridge's temperature as there is no heat transfer.
Gajanan Phadte
Gajanan Phadte
ah, I see your concern. Those al-cheapo bridges are rated for 35A, the amp is not sucking that sort of current, is it? I measured the metal case after an hour of reasonably loud Jazz session, they're still cold to touch.
Here's my little project
On power board.
IC: LM3886T
Resistor: (all) Takman 1/2w Metal Film
Capacitor Elc: 3x 100µF/50V Elna Cerrafine, 2x 22µF/50V Nichicon
Capacitor: 2x 100nF/250V Wima MKP10
Capacitor Coupling (DC Blocking): 2x 1.5µF/400V MKP Solen (Original)
Capacitor Power Supply: Nover AudioGrade 4x 6800µF/50V
Potentiometer: Alps Blue Beauty
PCB: XY HiFi (Dual Layer Fiber Board)
Hello,
Nice looking, cograts.
Will you please send me the schematics of the power board ?
Thanks,
Ignat
Its just a bunch of caps. No need for schematics.
Thanks, but I am not very familiar with PS - I have the board but there are no indications, no BOM, just C1,C2 etc. and R1,R2 , that is the problem.
Regards,
Thought I would post a couple of pics of my first (and second) go at chip amps.(well any amp).
Bottom one with the red button is a LM1875.
Middle is a LM3886.
Top smaller one is a ...., (well I don`t know if you would call it a switch box with volume control or a passive pre amp)
Over the next week or two I have to strip them all down again to redo some wire and solder work I am not happy with.
Then there is some more work on the timber ends and another polish on the aluminium cases.



Yes they are din speaker plugs there. Half my speakers are din so it just makes it a lot easier than making even more adapters.
I must say thanks to those on this forum. There is no way I could have got this far without having this site as a reference. Thank you.
Tony
Bottom one with the red button is a LM1875.
Middle is a LM3886.
Top smaller one is a ...., (well I don`t know if you would call it a switch box with volume control or a passive pre amp)
Over the next week or two I have to strip them all down again to redo some wire and solder work I am not happy with.
Then there is some more work on the timber ends and another polish on the aluminium cases.



Yes they are din speaker plugs there. Half my speakers are din so it just makes it a lot easier than making even more adapters.
I must say thanks to those on this forum. There is no way I could have got this far without having this site as a reference. Thank you.
Tony
Unobtrusive when off
I'm a newbie to posting but a seasoned veteran of diy audio.
This pre-amp was designed and built ~30 years ago, the power amp is a bit younger. My spouse dictated that the entire system could not be anything with DYMO labels and had to be unobtrusive when powered off. My requirements were that the system had to be as sonically transparent as I could reasonably attain without resorting to high-end audio expenditures. Both requirements were met.
The pre-amp is controlled (digitally) by touch switches and/or by IR remote which I scavenged from an old boom-box and then interfaced to the pre-amp with a PIC. IR demodulator was obtained at RS. PIC was programmed in assy language.
The power amp is a tri-amp (both channels) design using 6 LM3876 chips being driven by a 2 channel 3-way Linkwitz-Riley LR4 active filter.
Both amps are are enclosed in standard 19" rack mount chassis, 3U for the pre-amp, 5U for the power amp.
Speakers are plain vanilla ducted port bass reflex boxes.
I'm a newbie to posting but a seasoned veteran of diy audio.
This pre-amp was designed and built ~30 years ago, the power amp is a bit younger. My spouse dictated that the entire system could not be anything with DYMO labels and had to be unobtrusive when powered off. My requirements were that the system had to be as sonically transparent as I could reasonably attain without resorting to high-end audio expenditures. Both requirements were met.
The pre-amp is controlled (digitally) by touch switches and/or by IR remote which I scavenged from an old boom-box and then interfaced to the pre-amp with a PIC. IR demodulator was obtained at RS. PIC was programmed in assy language.
The power amp is a tri-amp (both channels) design using 6 LM3876 chips being driven by a 2 channel 3-way Linkwitz-Riley LR4 active filter.
Both amps are are enclosed in standard 19" rack mount chassis, 3U for the pre-amp, 5U for the power amp.
Speakers are plain vanilla ducted port bass reflex boxes.
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