It's true, I have the same words for dual mono setup, my best way !
I found Ljm kit :
lj gc lm3875 amplificateur class ab 2x50 w
Between mains and toroid is fuse.
Phil.
Thank's ! I know audiophonics.fr they have good stuff like a Raspberry I2S DAC which is incredible 😱 sorry off topic.
all the best
all the best
Nice work from Philfr and r100
Rupert, did you use any thermal paste or sil pad between the copper bar and the base to aid in transferring heat away from the chips.
Reason I am asking is that I have 2 copper spreader bars ( 1/4"x 2"x 7") and I will bolt one each to a piece of 3/8"x4"x9" aluminum, which is one side of a chassis. I am building 2 monos.
I was told paste or sil pads or some method to aid heat transference was imperative due to the uneveness between the 2 surfaces (ie: remove air pockets).
Myles
Rupert, did you use any thermal paste or sil pad between the copper bar and the base to aid in transferring heat away from the chips.
Reason I am asking is that I have 2 copper spreader bars ( 1/4"x 2"x 7") and I will bolt one each to a piece of 3/8"x4"x9" aluminum, which is one side of a chassis. I am building 2 monos.
I was told paste or sil pads or some method to aid heat transference was imperative due to the uneveness between the 2 surfaces (ie: remove air pockets).
Myles
Hello,
You do not need a 'kit' to make a chip amp, the 'spirit' of the design is to get the components as close to the chip as possible. This can be achieved only by point to point construction: Gain Clone amplifier with large power supply
Its easier as well 🙂
Cheers - Jim
You do not need a 'kit' to make a chip amp, the 'spirit' of the design is to get the components as close to the chip as possible. This can be achieved only by point to point construction: Gain Clone amplifier with large power supply
Its easier as well 🙂
Cheers - Jim
Rupert,
From post #2844: I realize you applied paste between the chips and copper. Did you also apply between the copper and aluminum chassis to aid in heat dispersion???
Myles
From post #2844: I realize you applied paste between the chips and copper. Did you also apply between the copper and aluminum chassis to aid in heat dispersion???
Myles
Hi Myles, no, paste only to the chips. The copper bar is firmly bolted to the aluminum base which is 6mm thick. I have been doing some tests with full load and the top of the bar gets close to 50°C which feels quite hot to the touch. The bottom plate gets hot too but not as much. There are holes on the bottom and on the top to create an airflow along the copper bar. All in all, I think judging by the (great) sound and relatively low heat the chips are working within their limits.
Greetings
Ru
Greetings
Ru
all the "hard" surface Thermal interfaces need thermal paste to exclude air from the joint to obtain good Thermal Conduction.
That includes spreader to heatsink !!!!
That includes spreader to heatsink !!!!
LM 386 headphone amp
the foto shows a lm386 amp on a piece of wood (prototype, without case).
capacitors 100pF and 4,7uF soldered at the copperclad side.
voltage gain around 10 times.
the foto shows a lm386 amp on a piece of wood (prototype, without case).
capacitors 100pF and 4,7uF soldered at the copperclad side.
voltage gain around 10 times.
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Hi,
LM3886 dual mono ps, build thread :
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/265827-lm3886-fullrange.html
Phil.
LM3886 dual mono ps, build thread :
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/265827-lm3886-fullrange.html
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Phil.
You drilled holes in the floor to ventilate the "chimneys".
Where are the matching holes in the top?
Where are the matching holes in the top?
Hi Andrew,
Yes,
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/265827-lm3886-fullrange-4.html#post4190514
No holes on top..
With about 4 watts (my use), temp of heatsink is 30° C (with top cover), in room 20° C.
Phil.
Yes,
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/265827-lm3886-fullrange-4.html#post4190514
No holes on top..
With about 4 watts (my use), temp of heatsink is 30° C (with top cover), in room 20° C.
Phil.
Hi,
Under cover is LM3886 dual mono :
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/265827-lm3886-fullrange-4.html#post4190683
Phil.
Under cover is LM3886 dual mono :
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/265827-lm3886-fullrange-4.html#post4190683
Phil.
My latest build.
Nikola Tesla ws 310y with Lm 3875 output.
Power supply capacitors😛anasonic fc,Thsa 10000 105c(main),X7r,Vishay Eko.
Signal:Elna silmic 2,Nicichon muse es,Feedback Elna cerifine.
Sound great,no hum,no buzz even if i put pot all the way up yust silence and music. 😀
P.s Sorry for bad pics.
Nikola Tesla ws 310y with Lm 3875 output.
Power supply capacitors😛anasonic fc,Thsa 10000 105c(main),X7r,Vishay Eko.
Signal:Elna silmic 2,Nicichon muse es,Feedback Elna cerifine.
Sound great,no hum,no buzz even if i put pot all the way up yust silence and music. 😀
P.s Sorry for bad pics.
Hi all
Started thinking about building an amplifier a while ago and decided to purchase a kit from chipamp.com. This is my first amplifier build so I can proudly say that the result is better than expected. The casing is a bit small, and I had to think alot of how to solve the layout in the best way to not get interrference with transformator and signal wires for example. Funny doing the led in front, got the idea from another build at this thread. 🙂
Started thinking about building an amplifier a while ago and decided to purchase a kit from chipamp.com. This is my first amplifier build so I can proudly say that the result is better than expected. The casing is a bit small, and I had to think alot of how to solve the layout in the best way to not get interrference with transformator and signal wires for example. Funny doing the led in front, got the idea from another build at this thread. 🙂
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I really like it! The wood panel and knob were enough, but when you added the led behind it...! Super job!