I am bit of a stubborn guy and should have listened to Vacuphile.This is exactly how my board failed. Unfortunately I'd also spent significant time and money on an enclosure, external power supply and cabling.
You have the same problem?
Looks like those Chinese sellers don't know what they are selling to give good advice.
Yes enclosure and investments.... I think the only thing I can do is buy a new board.
Really liked the sound.
Yes. I actually started this thread because I was having trouble with the USB input. It was suggested earlier in the thread that the hole in the middle of the XMOS card should be connected to the hole in the DAC board underneath it.
I sent multiple messages to both the vendor of the board and the manufacturer of the board but neither ever replied.
I'm not prepared to buy another DAC board. By the time I've ordered more AK4497 chips and had them fitted I'd be up for $300.
I sent multiple messages to both the vendor of the board and the manufacturer of the board but neither ever replied.
I'm not prepared to buy another DAC board. By the time I've ordered more AK4497 chips and had them fitted I'd be up for $300.
Huh? You can buy the whole board including mounted ak4497 chips for 220 dollars?Yes. I actually started this thread because I was having trouble with the USB input. It was suggested earlier in the thread that the hole in the middle of the XMOS card should be connected to the hole in the DAC board underneath it.
I sent multiple messages to both the vendor of the board and the manufacturer of the board but neither ever replied.
I'm not prepared to buy another DAC board. By the time I've ordered more AK4497 chips and had them fitted I'd be up for $300.
Aha okay i understand...Yeah. US$. Aus$300.
When I bought you could only get the board without the AK4497 chips.
Yeah big waste of money. On the other hand i would rather use it than the rest (case etc) eating dust..
Hello guy's
i ordered this one too from CAS seller.
the seller was open on discussion, and replied me .
about the amanero connected on this board, he say me than can't work, like you have find by yourself because need the spdif input .
i have found something on Audiophonics seller for create the spdif output from amanero.
Interface Digitale I2S vers SPDIF BNC 75 Ohm pour Amanero WM8805 - Audiophonics
As i build my DAC pieces by pieces, do you have recommandation about which type of tranformer is better to use, for this one, or wich type do you have yourself :
R-core or toroid ?
thanks
i ordered this one too from CAS seller.
the seller was open on discussion, and replied me .
about the amanero connected on this board, he say me than can't work, like you have find by yourself because need the spdif input .
i have found something on Audiophonics seller for create the spdif output from amanero.
Interface Digitale I2S vers SPDIF BNC 75 Ohm pour Amanero WM8805 - Audiophonics
As i build my DAC pieces by pieces, do you have recommandation about which type of tranformer is better to use, for this one, or wich type do you have yourself :
R-core or toroid ?
thanks
Hello, would be possible to support bluetooth on a AK4497 board with any of these chipsets? If so anyone can explain me how the connections should be made between both boards?
Bluetooth chipsets?
CSR8675(Used in the Topping DX3Pro using AK4493)
CSR8645(Some info in this thread, but I can't any find related info regarding AK boards)
I'm also trying to figure out some way to add headphone monitoring. Would it be feasible?
Bluetooth chipsets?
CSR8675(Used in the Topping DX3Pro using AK4493)
CSR8645(Some info in this thread, but I can't any find related info regarding AK boards)
I'm also trying to figure out some way to add headphone monitoring. Would it be feasible?
@vacuphile :
i have one question, i hope you are always their.
Do you think i can replace the Wima DC film capacitor directly by 100uf / 25v KZ Nichicon
or i must keep wima and weld in parallèle the 100uf caps ?
Aliexpress.com: Acheter 10 pcs NOUVEAU Nichicon MUSE KZ 100 uF/25 V Condensateurs Electrolytiques Salut fi Audio de audio fiable fournisseurs sur ATOPELEC Store
i have one question, i hope you are always their.
Do you think i can replace the Wima DC film capacitor directly by 100uf / 25v KZ Nichicon
or i must keep wima and weld in parallèle the 100uf caps ?
Aliexpress.com: Acheter 10 pcs NOUVEAU Nichicon MUSE KZ 100 uF/25 V Condensateurs Electrolytiques Salut fi Audio de audio fiable fournisseurs sur ATOPELEC Store
Hi guys,
Bought the Deluxe Version of the same DAC board from CAS together with two Type O transformers for this project.
The board came with an XMOS U8 USB board (yellow color) already mounted and soldered by the seller, with the Coax pin (not marked) connected to the DAC main board below. The LED on this board does light up when connected to the PC.
The Coax input fed from a CD transport works properly. Haven't tried Opt input.
However, the USB input with XCORE USB AUDIO 2 driver that was downloaded and installed automatically when the DAC was attached to PC/Jriver does not work so far after trying all output settings in Jriver.
I have messaged the CAS seller for a working driver solution but has not received a reply so far. Have also asked for advice if the current XMOS U8 doesn't work, is there another XMOS USB board that will work since they had sold many unit of the same DAC board already. Still to hear from the seller though.
Likely will end up using the DAC with only Coax and Opt inputs if no solution is forthcoming from the seller.
Bought the Deluxe Version of the same DAC board from CAS together with two Type O transformers for this project.
The board came with an XMOS U8 USB board (yellow color) already mounted and soldered by the seller, with the Coax pin (not marked) connected to the DAC main board below. The LED on this board does light up when connected to the PC.
The Coax input fed from a CD transport works properly. Haven't tried Opt input.
However, the USB input with XCORE USB AUDIO 2 driver that was downloaded and installed automatically when the DAC was attached to PC/Jriver does not work so far after trying all output settings in Jriver.
I have messaged the CAS seller for a working driver solution but has not received a reply so far. Have also asked for advice if the current XMOS U8 doesn't work, is there another XMOS USB board that will work since they had sold many unit of the same DAC board already. Still to hear from the seller though.
Likely will end up using the DAC with only Coax and Opt inputs if no solution is forthcoming from the seller.
I recall having to reinstall the driver a couple times, a bit of a hassle, before I got mine to work.
Hi phase,
Good to hear that you get yours working.
I am totally new to Hi-Res music playback and is trying out the new DAC with PC/Jriver. Not sure the problem I am facing is due to my wrongly setting up Jriver or PC via USB connection to the DAC.
Have checked and confirmed that the USB Audio 2 driver is working properly in the Device Manager and Playback is set to XMOS U8 in the Control Panel of PC.
In Jriver, I have set Audio Device as XMOS USB Audio 2 (ASIO) in Playback Option.
The DAC seems to receive the signal as the display is showing the correct SamRate that corresponds to the file being played.
But there is no sound output from the stereo system, just loud "pops" every second!
Maybe someone here can share with me your settings both in the PC and Jriver to get it working with this DAC. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Tham
Good to hear that you get yours working.
I am totally new to Hi-Res music playback and is trying out the new DAC with PC/Jriver. Not sure the problem I am facing is due to my wrongly setting up Jriver or PC via USB connection to the DAC.
Have checked and confirmed that the USB Audio 2 driver is working properly in the Device Manager and Playback is set to XMOS U8 in the Control Panel of PC.
In Jriver, I have set Audio Device as XMOS USB Audio 2 (ASIO) in Playback Option.
The DAC seems to receive the signal as the display is showing the correct SamRate that corresponds to the file being played.
But there is no sound output from the stereo system, just loud "pops" every second!
Maybe someone here can share with me your settings both in the PC and Jriver to get it working with this DAC. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Tham
While I’m not familiar with jriver, I have heard of similar experiences and it has been jriver that was causing the issue in the end. That or a setting associated with it.
Hi phase,
Thanks for the info. Will try another player to see if the problem can be solved.
Rgds
Thanks for the info. Will try another player to see if the problem can be solved.
Rgds
Just a quick update:-
Installed HYSOLID player but still no audio output with USB, but loud "POPs" like before.
To test if the problem lies with the PC setup, took the DAC to a friend's and hook it up to his Cayin iDAP. Again no audio output from USB connection. Just loud "POPs".
I believe the problem lies with the XMOS U8 and has informed the CAS seller accordingly. Hope he can provide a solution soon.
Installed HYSOLID player but still no audio output with USB, but loud "POPs" like before.
To test if the problem lies with the PC setup, took the DAC to a friend's and hook it up to his Cayin iDAP. Again no audio output from USB connection. Just loud "POPs".
I believe the problem lies with the XMOS U8 and has informed the CAS seller accordingly. Hope he can provide a solution soon.
Ot seems thatthat version of a dual mono ak4497 board is problematic, not worth the hassle....there are many more out by now...is there an alternative which actually is ggod to use out of the box ?
Just to update that this DAC board is working well now with a new XMOS XU208 USB board with the ASIO driver provided by the seller. Currently it plays almost all DSD and PCM Hi-Res files in PC/Jriver.
Still stock (will do the capacitor mod) but sounding very good already.
Still stock (will do the capacitor mod) but sounding very good already.
Hello @Tham
when i brought the DAc, the USB U208 ( set as U8 in device manager too ) was not soldered correctly, i needed to unwelding, and soldered pin instead, for easily change the USB board if necessary.
can you point me to your updated USB board, please ?
my board is DSD only in DOP mode.
thank you
when i brought the DAc, the USB U208 ( set as U8 in device manager too ) was not soldered correctly, i needed to unwelding, and soldered pin instead, for easily change the USB board if necessary.
can you point me to your updated USB board, please ?
my board is DSD only in DOP mode.
thank you
Hi there,
Reviving an old thread !
Bought the same DAC and successfuly applied most of modifications advised by Vacuphile (pics here DAC double mono 32 bits - Google Photos). DAC sounds really great, smooth and detailed.
I am now about to play with some opamps (OPA1622, OPA1612, OPA134) and considering to replace the red Wima film caps with non polar 100µF/35V Nichicon MUSE. This would allow getting rid of the added radial caps I soldered beneath the board while keeping the benefit of the lower frequency response. How could the designers of this board overlook the obvious application notes in AK4497's datasheet baffles me (omitted 2200µF decoupling caps for instance).
Only for aesthetics, I'll also get rid of the (ugly) blue back-lit / low contrast display with a nicer one (got 3 to play with : orange on black background, red on black or white on black). Also toying with the idea of using an OLED display, but it will need some modifications.
During tests, one interesting thing was to visualize the effects of various AK4497's digital filter settings on an oscilloscope, using a 1KHz @ 0dBFS digital sine in. Smoothest sine display is obtained using "SharpRoll-off" mode, other ones producing stepped sines, those dreaded by audiophiles - even if they are unable to discern them by listening 🙂 Ugliest aspect was obtained with "Super Slow roll-off" setting but again, not discernible (at least to my ears) .
All in all, best DAC I've had for so little money.
Reviving an old thread !
Bought the same DAC and successfuly applied most of modifications advised by Vacuphile (pics here DAC double mono 32 bits - Google Photos). DAC sounds really great, smooth and detailed.
I am now about to play with some opamps (OPA1622, OPA1612, OPA134) and considering to replace the red Wima film caps with non polar 100µF/35V Nichicon MUSE. This would allow getting rid of the added radial caps I soldered beneath the board while keeping the benefit of the lower frequency response. How could the designers of this board overlook the obvious application notes in AK4497's datasheet baffles me (omitted 2200µF decoupling caps for instance).
Only for aesthetics, I'll also get rid of the (ugly) blue back-lit / low contrast display with a nicer one (got 3 to play with : orange on black background, red on black or white on black). Also toying with the idea of using an OLED display, but it will need some modifications.
During tests, one interesting thing was to visualize the effects of various AK4497's digital filter settings on an oscilloscope, using a 1KHz @ 0dBFS digital sine in. Smoothest sine display is obtained using "SharpRoll-off" mode, other ones producing stepped sines, those dreaded by audiophiles - even if they are unable to discern them by listening 🙂 Ugliest aspect was obtained with "Super Slow roll-off" setting but again, not discernible (at least to my ears) .
All in all, best DAC I've had for so little money.
Last edited:
Thmartin, can you link where you got the dac? and the screens?
How much did the build cost?
My question is also why build a DIY DAC when companies like TOPPING offer great products for quite reasonable price.
thanks
How much did the build cost?
My question is also why build a DIY DAC when companies like TOPPING offer great products for quite reasonable price.
thanks
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