Sure you can, but with that resistor+cap+diode arrangement, there's no need to manually actuate a second (mute) switch, after every power-on and before every power-off.
So 1uf cap tied to one of the mute pins and then cap connected 750k and diode parallel connected to Power neg ?
Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the help!
At the moment you have 10k (or not) from gvdd to 1 mutepad and from the other mutepad 100k to mutepin. Negative signal inputpad is ground too.
Any chance one of you guys could bring a tpa3118 pbtl 60 watt mono
Market that would be a little bigger than the sanwu boards?
Using premium parts and big enough to fit the Panasonic Oscon caps
I would think this could be as good as it could get for these class D amps.
Market that would be a little bigger than the sanwu boards?
Using premium parts and big enough to fit the Panasonic Oscon caps
I would think this could be as good as it could get for these class D amps.
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Thanks for the size of those caps.
I still hope one of you guys can get a high quality board built
That has same configuration as Sanwu tpa3118 pbtl just in a bigger
Size easier to work on for these old eyes!
I still hope one of you guys can get a high quality board built
That has same configuration as Sanwu tpa3118 pbtl just in a bigger
Size easier to work on for these old eyes!
It's been done before, there's the DUG, the Weiner, and I'm sure others I don't know about.
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
The popular "Blue/Black" board started as a build by one of the members here or on AudioKarma (apologies to the creator that I can't remember his name), but was then ripped off by yuan-jing.
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Well it looks like Mouser & Digikey only have Panasonic oscon
In that size at 1200uf and 2.5v.
Any idea where to find better caps for these sanwu boards?
In that size at 1200uf and 2.5v.
Any idea where to find better caps for these sanwu boards?
Yes and there might be an ultimate upcoming by doxtormord&co ??? But not likely to have Oscons I guess.
select aluminium organic polymer, upto 8mm dia, smt, can, and they have all the ones from datasheet in stock and more from other brands.
thank you sir.
QUOTE=irribeo;5090476]select aluminium organic polymer, upto 8mm dia, smt, can, and they have all the ones from datasheet in stock and more from other brands.[/QUOTE]
QUOTE=irribeo;5090476]select aluminium organic polymer, upto 8mm dia, smt, can, and they have all the ones from datasheet in stock and more from other brands.[/QUOTE]
Nope, i'd choosen 2x EEHZA1V271P for the next board.
They will literally last forever.
The OS_CON SVPK do less ripple current at nearly the same price. From the measurements, bulk capacitor brand/type/capacitance isn't a show stopper if they're somewhat low ESR with 100uF per side. No need to spend extra dollars here. 😀
The choosen EEHZA1V271P is just the best i can actually get for a reasonable price. No snakeoil whatsoever. The leak current also is much lower than for organic caps.
I.e. The 35SVPK330M 330uF 35V leaks 2.3mA after 2 minutes, while the EEHZA1V271P does only 0.01*CV = 0.01 * 270uF * 35V = 0.095mA. That's a huge difference when running from battery.
Attachments
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Hi,
I have bough some time ago this red board from ayanhu81 shop on ebay.
DC 12V 24V TPA3116 Dual Channel Stereo 50W*2 BTL Mono 100W Audio Amplifier Board | eBay
I have seen some people in this thread using this board with satisfaction.
Well I experience quite audible hum and hiss. Hiss is audible only close to tweeters but hum is audible from the listening position.
Has anybody experienced this? Is the gain too high? Does anybody know how to change it?
Another thing maybe not related: I tried a number of smps: meanwell 24V 100W and a bunch of 12V laptop bricks of various amperage. Meanwell is fine but I do not think I need mch power, so I want to use a smaller laptop ps. Some (except for one) of the laptop bricks cause the amp to produce high pitch sound (probably above 10kHz), one brick (5A) was producing interrupted sound as if the thing turning on and off all the time... Finally I do not observe any correlation between the price and behaviour of the bricks.
I have bough some time ago this red board from ayanhu81 shop on ebay.
DC 12V 24V TPA3116 Dual Channel Stereo 50W*2 BTL Mono 100W Audio Amplifier Board | eBay
I have seen some people in this thread using this board with satisfaction.
Well I experience quite audible hum and hiss. Hiss is audible only close to tweeters but hum is audible from the listening position.
Has anybody experienced this? Is the gain too high? Does anybody know how to change it?
Another thing maybe not related: I tried a number of smps: meanwell 24V 100W and a bunch of 12V laptop bricks of various amperage. Meanwell is fine but I do not think I need mch power, so I want to use a smaller laptop ps. Some (except for one) of the laptop bricks cause the amp to produce high pitch sound (probably above 10kHz), one brick (5A) was producing interrupted sound as if the thing turning on and off all the time... Finally I do not observe any correlation between the price and behaviour of the bricks.
Ok. Removed the heatsink and inspected resistors connected to pin 7 and 8 (39K and 100k). That is 39dB gain according to TI specs sheet. Removed both and replaced 39K with 4.7k and open (specs says 5.6k and open to get 20dB - didn't have 5.6k in smd format).
Hum is gone🙂
Pics will follow once the e-mail from my phone gets to my comp😕
I will investigate the weird ps bricks again. Cannot find them now. They were here an hour ago...
Hum is gone🙂
Pics will follow once the e-mail from my phone gets to my comp😕
I will investigate the weird ps bricks again. Cannot find them now. They were here an hour ago...
This is how is looks like under the heat sink. The resistor are between the chip and the input socket. In this is group of 3 smd elements the bottom one is a capacitor, the middle one R6 is 39k and the top one R9 is 100k. As I said, the 100k goes, 39K gets replaced. And I am a happy camper.
Attachments
Those who who wonder how to do the bootstrap snubber.
Here you you have the answer without some mumbojumbo that some people take for grant you know...
Improving TPA3118 Class D Amplifier
Here you you have the answer without some mumbojumbo that some people take for grant you know...
Improving TPA3118 Class D Amplifier
Hi
I've decided to try these sanwu boards.
Is there a consensus about the mods?
I want to squeeze the best from them 🙂
Thank you for your help!
I've decided to try these sanwu boards.
Is there a consensus about the mods?
I want to squeeze the best from them 🙂
Thank you for your help!
The added "bootstrap" snubber just above your post is useless or probably worse.
Replace inductors, adjust gain, check for funny parts (wrong value parts in random positions). Cutting groundplane connection from signal ground to powersupply ground is easy, adding a compact "bootstrap" snubber isn't easy. Temperature of ampboard gets down when replacing electrolytics for lower impedance ones. Consensus is you should check/fix your Wiener 🙂
Replace inductors, adjust gain, check for funny parts (wrong value parts in random positions). Cutting groundplane connection from signal ground to powersupply ground is easy, adding a compact "bootstrap" snubber isn't easy. Temperature of ampboard gets down when replacing electrolytics for lower impedance ones. Consensus is you should check/fix your Wiener 🙂