Chassis for a group order of non-inverted GC kit?

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#722
Use your peripheral vision - or look at it then look away somewhat quickly if you don't notice it looking straight on. 😉 Or, if it's dark, move the LED around in front of you (probably requires you to have things breadboarded though). But I know I'm more likely to see things like this than most (I can't use computer monitors at 60hz - 72 is OK, 75 better, but 85hz or better refresh is preferred).

Just was curious. 🙂 A cheap regulator should do the trick if it bothers me too much, but I'm not even convinced it will.

C
 
#723
Peter Daniel said:
That will work too, especially with toroids that are not potted and as few as 10 turns may be fine. Basically you don't need anything except the LED, but it may be more elegant to connect it through the diode. Depending on number of turns and produced voltage the resistor might not be needed, neither the cap. You need about 1.5V on red LED.

In a previous post I should rather say: "Probably the easiest way" because winding separate turns for LED is a better choice, IMO.😉
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I'm using 25V, 330VA. Five turns of regular old stranded wire works fine. Gives 1.5v almost exactly.

Thanks,

Sheldon
 
#724
Peter Daniel said:
Pobably the best way is to connect the LED wires across the small cap on rectifier's board (C2). Longer lead (n LED)goes through series resistor to + on a cap (I choose anything aroung 68K for resistor) and the shorter lead connects to the other side of the cap. Do it before installing rect board as otherwise access will be difficult.
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I tried this tonight and blew my 3A slow blow fuses ...twice. So I'll guess I'll try winding wire around the toroid. Do you have to use any kind special wire or can I just use solid 20 AWG?
 
#728
cjd said:
But I know I'm more likely to see things like this than most (I can't use computer monitors at 60hz - 72 is OK, 75 better, but 85hz or better refresh is preferred).
Click to expand...


There definitely is a small % of the population that has a much stronger perception of flicker. This was a problem with early digital projectors. They worked fine for most people but 5% or so of the population was really bothered by the "flicker" of the projected image.
 
#730
moving_electron: Seeing doesn't necessarily equate to being bothered - for example, I can see the "dreaded" rainbows on my DLP projector with no troubles (bad source makes it worse). However, I rarely actually notice. But, I've been trained to see - I can pick out single frames of film that are wrong. 🙂 Rather, I can tell you something was odd, but may not know what without going back slowly. I think 60hz is an acquired bother because that's what tube lights and sooo many computer monitors refresh at, and the mix of those two is a headache in itself. And I do a lot of work in front of a computer.

Peter: Never heard of that one, but how appropriate. 🙂 I'll have to see if I can dig it up just for fun.

I have six turns of 24ga (I think it's 24), on a 330va 25V torroid, resulting in almost exactly 1.5v. I may drop it to five to lower the LED output some.

C
 
#731
I used 6 turns..and it works but it does flicker with the music. Now I've stumbled on another idea I'm going to try. I have a wall wart from an old Nokia cell phone that's rated at 3.7V and 50ma I cut off the end of the cord and hooked it up to an LED and it worked! It began to get a little hot so i put a 580 Ohm resistor in series and that solved the problem. Now to just figure out how to hook it up inside the amp and secure it.
 
#732
kestrel200 said:
I used 6 turns..and it works but it does flicker with the music. Now I've stumbled on another idea I'm going to try. I have a wall wart from an old Nokia cell phone that's rated at 3.7V and 50ma I cut off the end of the cord and hooked it up to an LED and it worked! It began to get a little hot so i put a 580 Ohm resistor in series and that solved the problem. Now to just figure out how to hook it up inside the amp and secure it.
Click to expand...

It shouldn't flicker with the music, unless perhaps your transformer is too small? Not sure. 🙂

But, if the 60hz hum *really* bothers you, a cheap rectifier will do the trick. Your wall-wart is basically a small transformer and rectifier. 🙂 Why add another?

C
 
#734
My GC chassis has arrived here in the UK. It looks very professional and the front panel in particular is very neat. Well done, Peter. (The packaging alone must have taken you hours.)

I look forward to receiving the internals and putting it all together.

BTW, I wonder if there would be interest in the copper heatsink block on it's own? This would make a very good backbone for a number of home brewed chassis designs.

Colin
 
#735
It was sent on June 18, so it took 4 weeks. Not bad at all. I believe some other European destinations might take longer: 6 weeks or so, and Germany is probably 8 weeks, as this what took for my orders from that locatiotion to arrive.

I'm glad you liked the artwork. And packaging was indeed a pain, but later I figured out a more organized way to do it and it went on more smoothly.

As you notice, I was adding to European shipping at least $10 per package (on average), and for the German shipping it was more that $20. As this was a true group buy, whatever was left over from US and Canadian shipping went into subsidizing International shipping charges and make the product more affordable for international participants. I also didn't charge anything for packaging and it took me on average 1/2 hours per package to complete.

Well, it was one time offer and will not be repeated (on this terms)😉
 
#738
The chassis has arrived today! Thanks ëter, all spic and span. Very nice work, even nicer packing...

Gave it a try tonight, just a quick putting together! I like it.

I will have to look through this thread to find out what all these screws are for, though.

Marc
 
#739
When Is Next Batch?

rabstg said:
Hey Peter-

When are you going to sell your small amp only chassis?

I am dying to put my BrianGT boards in one to use on my desk on some small line arrays....


Thanks, Troy
Click to expand...

Peter,

Another question so I can start saving my $$$, is when will you be offering the next round of Integrated Amp Kits? Will there be a general announcement? If so, where should we look for it? on the Specializedkits.com webpage, or here on this thread, or will it be a new thread, or a new WIKI page?

I missed the last round of kits by only a short time, and I'd like to know when to be on the lookout for the announcement.

Thanks,
-Erik.
 
#740
Now to drill 🙂

Hi All-

I had the following chassis made for my CG.

I needed 3 chassis but my machinist told me the price difference between 3 and 10 were minimal so I had 11 made. 3 for me and 8 for anyone else who needs one.


I am NOT a business, so if ANY profit is made from these 8 it will be donated to this site.

Please bear with me as I just "upgraded" to Window's XP and do not know how to reduce the picture resolution on the file. I will see if I can attach the picture as is.

Nope, no dice. Anyone care to shrink a picture for me so it can be posted?


Thanks again,

Troy
 
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