Chassis for a group order of non-inverted GC kit?

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#761
sbolin said:

For the ground (I assume that the ground is to the immediate left of the GC card in the picture). Did you drill a hole in the chassis and connect it? On Peter's chassis, there is no direct way to connect the ground like this, but I suppose I could drill a hole in the bottom of the chassis for a similar setup.
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You may use the threaded plugs of the cones for that purpose. Just screw it deeper into chassis' bottom and place M6x1 nut from the top securing ground wire.

I recommend direct connection between chassis and earth pin on the AC socket and connecting grounds from PCB (CHG) through 10 ohm resistors to earth ground.

Use 68k (or so ) resistor in series with diode, 1/4W is enough. The LED were supplied with a chassis and those are the only ones that fit there.

I will see how I set my greyhill switch and post a picture later.

The links in that post might be helpful in assembly: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=536621#post536621
 
#762
Peter Daniel said:


You may use the threaded plugs of the cones for that purpose. Just screw it deeper into chassis' bottom and place M6x1 nut from the top securing ground wire.

I recommend direct connection between chassis and earth pin on the AC socket and connecting grounds from PCB (CHG) through 10 ohm resistors to earth ground.

Use 68k (or so ) resistor in series with diode, 1/4W is enough. The LED were supplied with a chassis and those are the only ones that fit there.

I will see how I set my greyhill switch and post a picture later.

The links in that post might be helpful in assembly: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=536621#post536621
Click to expand...

Thanks very much, Peter, appreciate the help. I have the link you supplied bookmarked, in fact, to help me out. Look forward to a couple pics.

Also, I am with e.lectronick, forget the criticism, the chassis is fantastic - I look forward to future chassis.
 
#763
sbolin said:


Hmmm...can I use the diode from the BrianGT kit? (I believe I have a spare).



Ok, this I can understand. What is the wattage of the resistor? I have a bunch of 8 Ohm/20W resistors I could use. How do I attach to the chassis ground point? Do I need to drill a hole in the chassis (as I believe Ken did in his picture above) and attach to that? On Peter's kit there is three brass (?) cone supports - can I attach the ground to one of the mounting screws?

Again, thanks for your help, very much appreciated.
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You can use any standard led. I used the one that came with the chassis.

The resistor from CG to ground can be a 1/4 watt resistor. It doesn't (shouldn't actually) pass much current. It's only there to serve as a reference.

Sheldon
 
#764
Here's the pic how the pins in a switch should be located (2 places marked with black marker). The active positions will be 1-4 and 7-10. You can use them separately to switch both signal and grounds (3 sources and mute)
 

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#766
This picture shows ground arrangement: chassis ground taken from the lug attached to back panel through the screw used in Cardas patented posts (you can use cone screw here) and connected to AC Earth. Both channel grounds connected separately to that point through 10R thermistors (you can use resistors as well)
 

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#768
Here's the overview of the whole thing. As you see, I'm using PEC, but the series element is paralleled with 220k Caddocks to improve highs.

I noticed you are in a group buy of those pots, but my associate actually prefers Nobels here, so the opinions vary and it's greatly a matter of taste😉
 

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#769
Wow, thanks very much Peter - I'll check the pictures out in detail, but it looks like everything I need is here.

Regarding the pots, I will use the Noble that is included with the kit, and play around with the PEC pots for comparison. More out of curiosity than anything else.
 
#771
Yes indeed, I don't like them very bright. Those are small Panasonic LEDs, and I noticed that they are also very dim with Technics CD transport that is using same diodes. It's only a subtle light, letting you know that something is ON, but at the same time, does not draw your attention, if you know what I mean 😉
 
#775
Jeff
Gainclones with ordinary parts can, with more complex material, get congested.
How does your new amp fare with all premium components fare in the respect?
Are there other gains ~ anby chance of a prelimainary rview, max. 1000 words, to describe your new beauty? :angel:
Was PD right all along? 😉

Cheers
 
#776
rick57 said:
How does your new amp fare with all premium components fare in the respect?
Are there other gains ~ anby chance of a prelimainary rview, max. 1000 words, to describe your new beauty?
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Patience. It has about 4 hours of run-in at the moment.

Was PD right all along?
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Right about what? Even if I think it's the greatest ever, many are sure to disagree. How can anyone be "right?"
 
#777
jeff mai said:


Patience. It has about 4 hours of run-in at the moment.

Fair enough, I'm prone to enthsuaiam about new gear

Right about what? Even if I think it's the greatest ever, many are sure to disagree. How can anyone be "right?"
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Right about the sensitivity of GCs to component quality? (which you've IIRC upgraded).




😎
 
#780
Peter,

I really enjoy the performance of the 'old' LM3875 kit in your nice chassis - I had no problems building it. 😎

Would it be possible to fit the new snubberized PS board in your chassis? It is substantially larger than the original ones and the 10.000 uF caps will not fit in because of the transformer, I think. Any suggestions?
 
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