fredlock said:It also says on that site, that replacing the NE5532 to LM4562 will also sound better and can be comparable to a tube out put.
That´s NOT true, we tried that.
The DAC leaves A LOT of room for modifications, but the board you mention is multiple layer and not so easy to modify. You can also read that on the page I mentioned. There Lukasz says that the small board is more suitable for modifications.
Greetings,
Mischa
Hi Mischa,
Would you mean, this DAC http://cgi.ebay.com/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140295671555
is easier to modify than the other one. I would probably prefer this one since its cheaper too. That makes me more curious now. How much do you think it will cost me for the tube output modification? Do you have any estimate?
Which one is better anode follower or cathode follower?
Cheers!
Fred
Would you mean, this DAC http://cgi.ebay.com/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140295671555
is easier to modify than the other one. I would probably prefer this one since its cheaper too. That makes me more curious now. How much do you think it will cost me for the tube output modification? Do you have any estimate?
Which one is better anode follower or cathode follower?
Cheers!
Fred
Hi Fred,
Yes, that´s the one.
The costs for the tube stage depend on how much parts you buy second hand. The transformer you can take from an old tube radio, just like the tube foot. For the rest: what would some 1 Watt resistors and a handfull of high voltage caps cost you?
I would say something like 30-40 dollars including tubes. 😀 When you have friends who are active in tubes you might even have some old parts for free. Just look on ebay and you will come across old stock parts. Don´t order high quality parts for the test, you can always upgrade when you like the tube-sound.
When you have contact with the seller, please say Hi from Mischa Gielen from the Netherlands to her. Just orderdered 31 DAC´s there
.
Best regards,
Mischa
Yes, that´s the one.
The costs for the tube stage depend on how much parts you buy second hand. The transformer you can take from an old tube radio, just like the tube foot. For the rest: what would some 1 Watt resistors and a handfull of high voltage caps cost you?
I would say something like 30-40 dollars including tubes. 😀 When you have friends who are active in tubes you might even have some old parts for free. Just look on ebay and you will come across old stock parts. Don´t order high quality parts for the test, you can always upgrade when you like the tube-sound.
When you have contact with the seller, please say Hi from Mischa Gielen from the Netherlands to her. Just orderdered 31 DAC´s there

Best regards,
Mischa
I would say something like 30-40 dollars including tubes.
Thanks for your advise. I would look into it.
When you have contact with the seller, please say Hi from Mischa Gielen from the Netherlands to her. Just orderdered 31 DAC´s there
Will do. 😀 No problemo.
Fred
Remote control code
Does anyone knows the 3-digit remote control code for a universal remote that would work with the kit?
Does anyone knows the 3-digit remote control code for a universal remote that would work with the kit?
Re: Remote control code
Hi glt
What kind of the remote do you have?I am not sure the code for the fireware 3.6D.Or you can modify the fireware for the remote you have.
Regards
Huang
glt said:Does anyone knows the 3-digit remote control code for a universal remote that would work with the kit?
Hi glt
What kind of the remote do you have?I am not sure the code for the fireware 3.6D.Or you can modify the fireware for the remote you have.
Regards
Huang
This one (from the R-2R volume control in the other forum)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?postid=1628726&stamp=1223577558
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?postid=1628726&stamp=1223577558
Adventures in I2S
My Mitsumi CDROM was not "perfect". Even though I was able to tap the I2S (strictly speaking it is not I2S, but generic PCM, since it is 16-bit right justified), the channels were reversed (left was right and right was left).
Then I found a Sony CDROM from an old IBM PC. Tapped the PCM and this one has the channels correctly. I really liked the Mitsumi. The Mitsumi had metal parts and one button started and stopped the drive. The Sony has plastic parts and requires separate buttons to start and stop the drive. Both sounds really good through my Opus DAC. The datasheet for the Sony controller chip was easy to find.
I also disassembled toshiba, ricoh drives. Couldn't find the data sheets for toshiba and ricoh chips.
So if you could find an old Sony CDROM, that's a winner. The model have is Sony CDU511, and the controller chip is the Sony CXD3000R.
One note: if you get rid of the tray, the you will have to play with the switches and figure out what combination will start and stop the drive.
My Mitsumi CDROM was not "perfect". Even though I was able to tap the I2S (strictly speaking it is not I2S, but generic PCM, since it is 16-bit right justified), the channels were reversed (left was right and right was left).
Then I found a Sony CDROM from an old IBM PC. Tapped the PCM and this one has the channels correctly. I really liked the Mitsumi. The Mitsumi had metal parts and one button started and stopped the drive. The Sony has plastic parts and requires separate buttons to start and stop the drive. Both sounds really good through my Opus DAC. The datasheet for the Sony controller chip was easy to find.
I also disassembled toshiba, ricoh drives. Couldn't find the data sheets for toshiba and ricoh chips.
So if you could find an old Sony CDROM, that's a winner. The model have is Sony CDU511, and the controller chip is the Sony CXD3000R.
One note: if you get rid of the tray, the you will have to play with the switches and figure out what combination will start and stop the drive.
Here is a picture tapping the PCM
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/lGtwXI-yvrz4-F8VjPu3Rg?authkey=XPCnSxjQnD8&feat=directlink
I used one of those 4 pin connectors you find in motherboards (the white connector) and the 4-wire you also find inside computers connecting the CDROM to the motherboard (those cables are shielded)
Here is a closeup
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Hwp8kF1wjkXBYPR0T72kSA?authkey=XPCnSxjQnD8&feat=directlink
showing the soldering of the wires to the vias. It is pretty easy just put a bit of solder to the wire and a bit to the via. Hold the wire on top of the via and heat up the wire
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/lGtwXI-yvrz4-F8VjPu3Rg?authkey=XPCnSxjQnD8&feat=directlink
I used one of those 4 pin connectors you find in motherboards (the white connector) and the 4-wire you also find inside computers connecting the CDROM to the motherboard (those cables are shielded)
Here is a closeup
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Hwp8kF1wjkXBYPR0T72kSA?authkey=XPCnSxjQnD8&feat=directlink
showing the soldering of the wires to the vias. It is pretty easy just put a bit of solder to the wire and a bit to the via. Hold the wire on top of the via and heat up the wire
qlt,
If you say tapping on I2S signal, your taking this signal output (SCLK, DATA, LRout and MCLK) from the CDROM and connect to the OPUS DAC? Can you explain this a little bit further now that I have the chance to ask you. Sorry I'm a newbie on this DAC thing and I'm trying to experiment what's best that will work on my system.
Thanks.
If you say tapping on I2S signal, your taking this signal output (SCLK, DATA, LRout and MCLK) from the CDROM and connect to the OPUS DAC? Can you explain this a little bit further now that I have the chance to ask you. Sorry I'm a newbie on this DAC thing and I'm trying to experiment what's best that will work on my system.
Thanks.
Well, indeed you need four signals plus ground into OPUS (or any DAC), but I can only find 3 signals from the two CDROM I've hacked: BCLK, LRCLK and Data. No MCLK. But I also have the OPUS Metronome which is a asynch resampling and it does not take the MCLK because it generates its own clock.
If I try hard, I would probably find MCLK somewhere since there has to be a master clock in the CDROM otherwise it will not play music and the spdif output would not work
But I have not looked very hard for master clock since I don't need it.
In the two CDROMs I've hacked, the three signals I need are conveniently located in adjacent pins, so once I find one, the others are right there.
I also have a mini-oscilloscope (the one advertised in this forum for $50) and I can see these signals. The LRCLK is a steady 44.1 KHz square wave. The BCLK looks like a staircase sine wave (maybe because the scope has limited bandwidth since it is not steady) and Data is just data all over the place.
If I try hard, I would probably find MCLK somewhere since there has to be a master clock in the CDROM otherwise it will not play music and the spdif output would not work
But I have not looked very hard for master clock since I don't need it.
In the two CDROMs I've hacked, the three signals I need are conveniently located in adjacent pins, so once I find one, the others are right there.
I also have a mini-oscilloscope (the one advertised in this forum for $50) and I can see these signals. The LRCLK is a steady 44.1 KHz square wave. The BCLK looks like a staircase sine wave (maybe because the scope has limited bandwidth since it is not steady) and Data is just data all over the place.
Thanks qlt for clarification. Would the BCLK and SCLK be the same? I would think different manufacturers use different abbreviations, correct me if I'm wrong. Can I email you on this if I get further question? Appreciate it.
Fred
Fred
glt said:The LRCLK is a steady 44.1 KHz square wave. The BCLK looks like a staircase sine wave (maybe because the scope has limited bandwidth since it is not steady) and Data is just data all over the place.
I've noticed the same wave (all but square wave!) in my cdrom, using a 20 Mhz CRT scope. It's a miracle that a DAC is able to use that.

fredlock said:Hi qlt,
You're email is disabled.
I sent you an email. Don't know what is wrong I think I have the correct settings...
My second CDROM...
Almost done. This one is a bit more transparent 🙂
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/YOVNsJrr8qHRSV8Q_QReJQ?authkey=XPCnSxjQnD8&feat=directlink
Almost done. This one is a bit more transparent 🙂
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/YOVNsJrr8qHRSV8Q_QReJQ?authkey=XPCnSxjQnD8&feat=directlink
This one is a bit more transparent
one might call it "naked truth"
BTW - how to get usable digital audio from a laptop (slimline) cd rom drive? All the desktop cd'roms I have used have quite well functioning digital (spdif) output.
I have a converter from 50 pin to 40 pin ide, but the only audio out is analog. Any hints?
@ audio-kraut
for digital output, you have to open your cdrom, and try to find spdif or I2S signals. Sometimes it's really difficult... start from analog outputs and trace that signals behind, You'll find the dac IC or a "all in one" IC. Try to find datasheet
and then the digital signals pins...
for digital output, you have to open your cdrom, and try to find spdif or I2S signals. Sometimes it's really difficult... start from analog outputs and trace that signals behind, You'll find the dac IC or a "all in one" IC. Try to find datasheet

I just opened a slimline CDROM. The controller chip is a Mitsubishi general purpose 16 bit microcomputer. I was able to find the datasheet and (obviously) the I/O pins are just described as generic I/O. Besides, the pitch size of the pins and components are even smaller. In theory, you can check each I/O pin and determine the BCK, LRCK and data lines with a scope. The Microprocessor has a built in DAC.
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