Stop using this immediately. C3 is in a position to damage your amp.
Presumably it should have L2 to the left of it. L2 is shown shorted.
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Are the woofers that recessed in the real Caladan? I would not mount anything playing up to 1khz with a tunnel like that.
It's not necessarily a deal breaker. The bevel is not so different to a roundover. 1kHz should put the far end of it within the driver nearfield.
I think it is mounted from the back. The baffle is 1 1/2 “. The 45* bevel was done with the biggest router bit I had on hand. The bevel on the real Caladan has the same angle but goes deeper. Regardless, good observation.
Beveling can get expensive for the one time or so user. I"m building a couple of baffles and wanted that rear driver look. The baffle material is 1-1/2" thick butcher block, just like the above. Started with a 2-1/2"-45 degree router bit (@$50), then realized I could go more. Bought a 3"-45 degree bit (@$130!) and still ended up with a 7/16" "tunnel" behind the cut. Which is fine by me, just fyi for anyone else out there. I will be using diy speaker cleats, to move the driver mounting screws away from the chamfer. So if the above poster wanted to go there, that's still enough room for the router bearing to ride on, for a do over. 🙂
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Hello everyone, The attempt to make the Caladan clone failed solely because of the specified values of the coil. Technically speaking, 7mH is not possible because the woofer is dampened too much and the transition (roll off) of the woofer comes to around 500Hz and there is a huge hole in the frequency response. I did a simulation based on the manufacturer's specifications (Beyma and Dayton audio) and came up with different values. Damping a tweeter with a coil of 1mH and so low at 1 kHz is absolutely not possible.
Babus: what is the proposed solution? Different tweeter? different crossover? both?
We need your help and expertise.
We need your help and expertise.
I have ordered the parts and will build my version but as I wrote, the values of the coil for the woofer and tweeter (7 mH and 1 mH) are not correct and the capacitor for the tweeter (20 uF) is also not correct. I will build my copy in the next few days and will report back here. Of course, you should not replace the tweeter in this project.
Don’t those Dayton tweeters have enclosed rear chambers - are they used monopole in this design?
Edit: I see that they are used monopole. I would have thought using 2 like SL did would have been better. Built to a price I guess.
Edit: I see that they are used monopole. I would have thought using 2 like SL did would have been better. Built to a price I guess.
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No, these are normal tweeters and not dippoles. What was built in the SL with 2 tweeters is an alternative for dippoles with 2 tweeters.
That driver is used by several OB designs, yet generally with a tweeter on top. I believe user Juhazi does so, for example.
I would be very much interested in your findings. Are you planning to implement them in the wide Caladan baffle or a narrow one?
I only have a pair of homemade Caladans: the ones I pictured.
I have to build something to hold them on top of the baffle. Any ideas are welcome. Or even better, a hand drawn sketch. The baffles are 1.5” thick.
I have to build something to hold them on top of the baffle. Any ideas are welcome. Or even better, a hand drawn sketch. The baffles are 1.5” thick.
@Chemarcelo
Do you happen to be from Argentina?
I imagine you plan to use them in OB. I would just attach them to a wood frame and temporarily clamp the frame on top of the Caladans, then onto each side and measure/listen. You can also add a cardboard baffle the same width if the caladans and try that too (while the frame is attached to the top). This is cheap, easy/quick and no need to modify your nice baffles. If one of these locations sounds most promising I would think about a more elaborated baffle to further try out.
BTW, I have open baffles but I'm not satisfied with the midbass (subs below 80Hz). I see you are happy with from 12BR70. What were you used to before? To understand your reference point.
Do you happen to be from Argentina?
I imagine you plan to use them in OB. I would just attach them to a wood frame and temporarily clamp the frame on top of the Caladans, then onto each side and measure/listen. You can also add a cardboard baffle the same width if the caladans and try that too (while the frame is attached to the top). This is cheap, easy/quick and no need to modify your nice baffles. If one of these locations sounds most promising I would think about a more elaborated baffle to further try out.
BTW, I have open baffles but I'm not satisfied with the midbass (subs below 80Hz). I see you are happy with from 12BR70. What were you used to before? To understand your reference point.
Yes, I'm from Argentina. I live in Los Angeles. My nickname gave it away! 🙂.
I think we were thinking alike. I'm going to try the cardboard like you suggested later.
Since you asked me about my findings, I must tell you that this tweeters/mid planar driver have taken the Caladans to the next level.
I think they are not Caladans anymore. Why? you may ask. Well, the values of the crossovers I think are wrong. They did not sound right. So I used a MiniDSP, which improved the sound and the sensitivity a lot. But with this planar it took the open baffles 3 notches higher. Everything is so clear and, the bass, for some reason I ignore, it got tighter and punchier.
The cross over in the MiniDSP is set at 1 kHz. It's bi-amp with the Emotive seen in the pictures (UPA-500). Later on I would like to try the Planar with the FirstWatt F7 and the Emotive just for the woofers.
I would strongly recommend to the people that were following this tread, that don't waste your money with the published XO suggested here, at least with the current values. Get a MiniDSP, faster and easier to set up. Get the 8" planar PT6825-8 ($59.98 at Parts Express) and that would be an end-game speaker.
The woofer sound very good. I think that if Clayton Shaw sees this thread, he would try what I did and offer the planars as an upgrade 😉. Mark my words.
I invite everyone to try it and report their finding.
I think we were thinking alike. I'm going to try the cardboard like you suggested later.
Since you asked me about my findings, I must tell you that this tweeters/mid planar driver have taken the Caladans to the next level.
I think they are not Caladans anymore. Why? you may ask. Well, the values of the crossovers I think are wrong. They did not sound right. So I used a MiniDSP, which improved the sound and the sensitivity a lot. But with this planar it took the open baffles 3 notches higher. Everything is so clear and, the bass, for some reason I ignore, it got tighter and punchier.
The cross over in the MiniDSP is set at 1 kHz. It's bi-amp with the Emotive seen in the pictures (UPA-500). Later on I would like to try the Planar with the FirstWatt F7 and the Emotive just for the woofers.
I would strongly recommend to the people that were following this tread, that don't waste your money with the published XO suggested here, at least with the current values. Get a MiniDSP, faster and easier to set up. Get the 8" planar PT6825-8 ($59.98 at Parts Express) and that would be an end-game speaker.
The woofer sound very good. I think that if Clayton Shaw sees this thread, he would try what I did and offer the planars as an upgrade 😉. Mark my words.
I invite everyone to try it and report their finding.
