Caladan by Clayton Shaw DIY

[ehyfatboy]

Ah, I see! I think it is starting to slowly sink in...
How do i parallel the caps to each other but the same time put them in series to the tweeter? And what does it do compared to the arrangement i had in my last post?

 

[kor952]

Use the schematic as published by @6L6 fill in the right values, so C1 will be 20uF, connect the 0.22 cap in parallel with the 20uF cap. This will give a total value of 20.22uF for C1.

 

[ehyfatboy]

Like this?

 

[kor952]

Yes like that, if you also exchange the position of the cap and the coil of the woofers it will be perfect.

 

[ehyfatboy]

You mean put the coil to the left of the cap. the same way it is in the diagram @6L6 posted? Then it is 100% correct?

 

[kor952]

Yes that is what I mean. Then it is 100% OK.

 

[ehyfatboy]

How come there is two caps at the tweeter circuit? Could they be replaced with one 22uF capacitor instead? Jantzen have a 22uF caps. However, they are not cheap. But the Jupiter Wax ain't cheap either. Would there be a benefit?

 

[Jonasz]

They are 20,22 not 22uF. The smaller one of better quality is there to sweeten the sound a bit to the designers taste.

 

[Quirepace]

Nice baffle! Sorry, i have an active crossover and individual amps for each driver, which is very good to lift the low end to my likings.

Hi, Are you using DSP for you active crossover?

 

[toseland]

This is a very interesting thread which has got me considering building something again.
I don't think I've seen it posted, but what size baffle are people using.
In addition is there a dipole tweeter the could be used as a replacement for the Dayton Audio RST28F-4 1-1/8"?

 

[eindelooos]

@housemd / @kor952
Can you share baffle drawings?
I can not figure out how to position the driver cut outs from top or bottom of the baffle.
TY

 

[seve]

Anyone actually got around to build this speaker with the passive crossover that can share how it worked out?

I think this speaker would fit perfect when looking at the WAF factor - size, looks and price are perfect and could easily be pushed against the wall when not in use. This is something I need to take into consideration but would of course want as good sound as possible,, but will not chase down the last few percentages if size, looks and price nevertheless will excludes it from being accepted.

I hope someone can give their opinion about the speaker using the passive crossover - I would be really happy.

Thanks.

 

[EDHDIY]

Building this speaker with the passive crossover and also possible to active minidsp crossover. Did nit like the crossover in the speaker itself so i printed an enclosure for it. And made an backplate for hiding the wiring.

 

[seve]

@EDHDIY really beautiful build.

I hope it sounds as good as it looks?

 

[john65b]

I thought the Caladan Crossover was a series type, not parallel....maybe confusing this speaker with another Open Baffle type speaker

 

[Chemarcelo]

Building this speaker with the passive crossover and also possible to active minidsp crossover. Did nit like the crossover in the speaker itself so i printed an enclosure for it. And made an backplate for hiding the wiring. View attachment 1306640 View attachment 1306641 View attachment 1306644

I really really like your build. Please tell us how they sound.

 

[audiostar]

Fun facts regarding the name Caladan.

https://dune.fandom.com/wiki/Caladan

 

[john65b]

Cool enclosure for the Crossover - can you share the 3D Print Files?

 

[Chemarcelo]

Hello, i ordered the speakers and searching for the drawings of the baffle and crossovers. Who can help me?

• PRODUCT DIMENSIONS: 38”H X 18”W X 10”D (including support legs). 35 LBS EACH

 

[johnvb]

First the angle, it is 45 degrees, the thickness of the baffle is 38 mm I made the 45 degree edge 28 mm deep but I think you better can stop at 25 mm, specially if you use MDF. Otherwise you you will have serious trouble with screwing the woofers to the baffle. You need to pre-drill the screws but not too big and not too small please test before drilling your baffle.

An alternative would be to use speaker cleats, which will move the screw holes into the baffle further away from the chamfer cuts.
I'm currently not building the Calandan, but doing a similar set of butcher block baffles with rear mounting drivers and front 45 degree chamfer cuts.

Using these (cut shorter) for the cleats:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KW6MMHB?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details