To be honest, to drive a single F4, get a tube preamp.
Both my CJ PV9 and ET3SE are sublime at doing it. You get the crazy *** sound of tubes... on steroids. The F4 is transparent.
So, honestly, if you are gonna drive a single F4, single ended, don't go with cheap, go for the finest preamp you can afford because the F4 will allow the sound to come through. And tubes is where's it at... you need those 20V rms to swing.
The combination makes for the World's finest integrated... if you are OK with just 35 wpc.
Otherwise... if you need more power, if you need the bridged F4, well.... the ARC preamps only swing 10V in balanced mode... I checked with the factory.... so, so, so.... PM me and I'll give you my address and you come and listen to the end result.
Hope y’all are doing great.
Just got the “autographed “ NuTube pre mocked up to the Zenductors (yes, it a brown box rk27 lol). Sounding great.
Only issue was the female end of the Wall wart supply connector not working. The parts fit fine, just no electrical connection.
Now, just need to source parts to display they awesomeness!
Kevin
Just got the “autographed “ NuTube pre mocked up to the Zenductors (yes, it a brown box rk27 lol). Sounding great.
Only issue was the female end of the Wall wart supply connector not working. The parts fit fine, just no electrical connection.
Now, just need to source parts to display they awesomeness!
Kevin
That's odd. But those connectors are generally a pain in the rear. The centre pin comes in many diameters, so one must be careful to choose the correct connector for the chosen wall wart.
Tom
No kidding! I've stocked up on female 5.5Xxx fittings with pigtails to go from 2.1 to 2.5 (both ways). I have crammed small bits of aluminum foil in a 2.5 female to work with a 2.1 male, but that sounds a bit like begging for trouble.
Skip
Skip
It was the stock parts from the wall wart that didn’t work out of the box.
I didn’t think to use a bit of tin foil?!
But the trusty multi meter told me where the electrons got held up, and it was easy enough to fix.
My comment about the chinga dera not working was more for others that may have the same issue. I thought it was odd it didn’t work as well.
Kevin
I didn’t think to use a bit of tin foil?!
But the trusty multi meter told me where the electrons got held up, and it was easy enough to fix.
My comment about the chinga dera not working was more for others that may have the same issue. I thought it was odd it didn’t work as well.
Kevin
Now that I think about it, there are different barrel lengths as well. I learned that the hard way. It's truly remarkable how the world just keeps clinging on to crappy connectors. I feel the same about banana plugs.
Tom
Are there standards for such things?
So when we buy parts, wall warts, etc.. we know what we get?
I got like two bins filled with wall warts, it's the only think I keep when I throw all stuff away.
So when we buy parts, wall warts, etc.. we know what we get?
I got like two bins filled with wall warts, it's the only think I keep when I throw all stuff away.
Not really. Not for barrel connectors anyway. If you get a wall wart with USB output you can at least count on the connector fitting and providing 5 V at 2 A. But with USB-C that could be different too. I'm pretty sure, but not 100% sure, that USB-C will still provide 5 V unless a higher voltage is negotiated.
If we read the data sheet for the wall wart, then yes.
Tom
Well, USB has it own set of issues.
Micro USB is a terrible interface from a physical POV. We just thew away a perfectly fine small Nuforce uDAC-3 because the ground loop for the connector was deformed from too many plug in/out cycles.
And USB-C can be problematic as well. Sometimes if it doesn't work, flipping it over will work.
USB cables are also an issue. Stay away from the "cheap" ones, try to get something that feels sturdy and has a well put together connector backshell.
And, once you've settled on a connector and cable... they will add a new type. Like I said earlier, I got two bins full of all kinds of wall warts but for USB cables I got six or seven drawers... USB-2. USB-3, A, B, mini, micro, C, OTG.... Apple...
The latest USB-3.2 C connectors seem to be capable of sourcing quite a bit of power. And then IT issues you an i9 workstation laptop that needs a Wall Wart From Hell....
Micro USB is a terrible interface from a physical POV. We just thew away a perfectly fine small Nuforce uDAC-3 because the ground loop for the connector was deformed from too many plug in/out cycles.
And USB-C can be problematic as well. Sometimes if it doesn't work, flipping it over will work.
USB cables are also an issue. Stay away from the "cheap" ones, try to get something that feels sturdy and has a well put together connector backshell.
And, once you've settled on a connector and cable... they will add a new type. Like I said earlier, I got two bins full of all kinds of wall warts but for USB cables I got six or seven drawers... USB-2. USB-3, A, B, mini, micro, C, OTG.... Apple...
The latest USB-3.2 C connectors seem to be capable of sourcing quite a bit of power. And then IT issues you an i9 workstation laptop that needs a Wall Wart From Hell....
Agreed. But it's still standardized to a higher level than any barrel connector. And you did ask about standards.
Tom
Hi there,
Yesterday I was looking at the 'original' thread, which I can't find now, and was quite fascinated by the design. However, I have not read all the posts.
Could someone please post the general specifications of the amplifier - I am curious.
PS.
One thing I was surprised about is there are no 'bypass poly-caps' across the output coupling capacitor (?)
Yesterday I was looking at the 'original' thread, which I can't find now, and was quite fascinated by the design. However, I have not read all the posts.
Could someone please post the general specifications of the amplifier - I am curious.
PS.
One thing I was surprised about is there are no 'bypass poly-caps' across the output coupling capacitor (?)
How did you like the sound. SB12PFCR25-08 not available in my Country any one who can suggest nearest alternative
tigeranand, I am working with the SB13pfcr25-8 due to the SB12 being out of stock. Needs a bigger box but sounds very goo, I found capacitor value for the SB13 to be around 440uF. I am sure there are other drivers that would work. Audiofy.in appears to have SB drivers in India.
R
R
Is this thread broken? Here's the link for what I'm guessing is the "original post" referred to in the last pertinent submission:
A visual guide to the Rothacher/Pass Zenductor 2
The Zenductor 2 is a mono block, single-ended, zero-feedback, Class-A audio amplifier. You need two for stereo.
Nelson’s article can be found here - https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/burning-amp-2024.414636/post-7820909
All photos in this guide will show one amplifier being built.
Parts for one amplifier.
Let's look a little closer at al the various bits -
The circuit board everything attaches to.
Zenductor 2 is powered by a 16v 4.5A brick-style Power Supply...
The Zenductor 2 is a mono block, single-ended, zero-feedback, Class-A audio amplifier. You need two for stereo.
Nelson’s article can be found here - https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/burning-amp-2024.414636/post-7820909
All photos in this guide will show one amplifier being built.
Parts for one amplifier.
Let's look a little closer at al the various bits -
The circuit board everything attaches to.
Zenductor 2 is powered by a 16v 4.5A brick-style Power Supply...
Interesting reading > But I wasn't actually talking about $300 capacitors.
Being a low voltage output amp, I guess my comment barely applies to "The Burning Amp".
BUT, it is an actual fact that at higher voltages & currents an electrolytic with poor to average ESR CAN be improved with a High Quality bypass cap(s).
( regarding high frequency complex waveforms )
Being a low voltage output amp, I guess my comment barely applies to "The Burning Amp".
BUT, it is an actual fact that at higher voltages & currents an electrolytic with poor to average ESR CAN be improved with a High Quality bypass cap(s).
( regarding high frequency complex waveforms )
Yea, and my thinking on the capacitor subject is: Why do we often automaticly ”belive” that a expensive capacitor is going to sound better?
It might very well be that it is the absolute cheapo garbage capacitor that actually SOUNDS best in a specific application.
If we really wanna know? We simply have to try them, and listen.
Another, besides the point, fact of the matter is that more expensive caps almost always is of higher quality, and will last longer.
It might very well be that it is the absolute cheapo garbage capacitor that actually SOUNDS best in a specific application.
If we really wanna know? We simply have to try them, and listen.
Another, besides the point, fact of the matter is that more expensive caps almost always is of higher quality, and will last longer.
JeyDee:
Agreed. Fortunately, there is at least one resource that provides a subjective assessment on a broad range of film caps -- Tony Gee's capacitor review: https://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html . I find it a good starting place.
Regards,
Scott
Agreed. Fortunately, there is at least one resource that provides a subjective assessment on a broad range of film caps -- Tony Gee's capacitor review: https://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html . I find it a good starting place.
Regards,
Scott