Building the Lhotse designed by Scottmoose

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Again. My advice to all not to add bracing in such a small cross section. It will be over kill and eats this already small cabinet volume.
I'm wondering how many times I have to repeat that it is:

a/ Accounted for in the design volume & cross section,
b/ Was the default assumption (not having any is actually the change, not the other way around), and
c/ This was tested and measured. I've given the factual results above.

Now: where is your comparative data? You are making very strong statements as if they were fact about somebody else's design, and when you are asked to prove it, you admit you haven't in fact done any testing, structural analysis or anything else at all, and it's just your opinion, which you're repeating in the face of fact.

Once again: the assumed minimal longitudinal bracing is not necessary -Lhotse is already a relatively rigid structure with the design materials, and you will get good results without it. However, it does increase the lateral panel rigidity, which can be useful around the main bending modes, and if the driver motor structure is braced to the rear of the enclosure, there is a small reduction in (primarily) HD. It's not shown in the sketches simply because I'm lousy at drawing, and Markaudio don't like the sketches to be visually complex, since they believe it either confuses or frightens off potential buyers. However, it's mentioned in the notes. Because the volume taken up by the assumed bracing was assumed to be present when designing the load, there is no change involved in the alignment. Omitting it results in about 1/4dB - 1/3dB increase in output at Fb over what was intended. This was all tested; it's part of the wider Himalaya / Mountain series of boxes & I put a lot of work and, for me, money (which I don't get back -I don't get expenses) into those. In practice this is all well within driver production tolerance, variations in damping material, and even changes in the local climatic conditions.

Those are the facts -nothing unusual. To be honest, I'm a bit stumped why anybody would try to claim otherwise, since it's not true, and also a distraction from what's otherwise a very nice build thread. :scratch1:
 
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Please avoid inside bracing in this small cross section. And if you want to brace this cabinet brace it outside the cabinet. Further more use good materials and built proper. Also add a good heavy foundation at the bottom for this cabinet.
 
Just to emphasise to anybody unfortunate enough to be reading and is getting confused about all this twaddle regarding internal bracing:

Hondasnl did not design this enclosure. I did. He does not actually know how it operates, does not know anything about the alignment, has made no testing of any kind on the acoustic or the structural loads, let alone done any comparisons (which as the designer, I did), but is still trying to claim the opposite of what is actually the case. He does not actually know what he is talking about as far as this goes. I'm not saying that to be offensive: it's just a fact, so please do not let him mislead you.

By contrast, his suggestions for using good materials, and quality construction are (obviously) very sound, and those should go for any enclosure: you'll reap the rewards if you do. This doesn't automatically have to be expensive, just a case of careful selection & application. A stable base is also valuable for tall cabinets: it doesn't necessarily need to be heavy, although that can help -a relatively wide footprint with feet that suit the flooring, is generally sufficient, especially if very high mass materials are over-expensive in your region.

For those who don't know, one place mass is very effective acoustically speaking is actually at the top of the enclosure, although ideally it needs to be external: a heavy potted plant or similar is good. By placing mass there, you're literally mass-loading the panels into the floor -although you'll need to make sure everything is sufficiently stable, which is where a good footprint with suitable feet for the flooring comes in again. 😉
 
Hondasnl does not know anything.
You know plenty, but you don't know about the acoustic or structural loadings, because you didn't design it and you haven't done any testing, so you're not in a position to contradict the person who did / has! You want to state your preferences, that's fine -nobody's arguing with that. Just don't claim they are fact, especially when the actual facts have been given! I don't think that's too much to ask. Speaking for myself, I actually like a lot of what you've done in this build (in case you hadn't noticed).
 
You know plenty, but you don't know about the acoustic or structural loadings, because you didn't design it and you haven't done any testing, so you're not in a position to contradict the person who did / has! You want to state your preferences, that's fine -nobody's arguing with that. Just don't claim they are fact, especially when the actual facts have been given! I don't think that's too much to ask. Speaking for myself, I actually like a lot of what you've done in this build (in case you hadn't noticed).
Fair, Ok you two have a beer in his new listening space.
 
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best damping material

What damping material?

img_20241213_113331_871-jpg.1393087


Doesn’t look to be well enuff eased, and i suspect way to much. I expect it will kill the bass output.

dave
 
to anybody unfortunate enough to be reading and is getting confused about all this twaddle regarding internal bracing:

To those lurkers, Hondasnl has shown a blatant disregard for solid feedback in many of hgis builds if it goes against the “truths” he has exposed in his naratibves and builds.

I would pay attention to what Scott says.

Even these tiny little boxes benefit from a holey brace, Not so much related to the box itself, but how the driver performs becomes part of the box. Bracve does not affect the bass, but improves DDR.

img_20240405_174750-jpg.1296172


That is a 3” driver.

dave
 
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