Building process - The loudspeaker 1

I am wondering how the TL2 compares against the much cheaper Faital 3WC-15. Both are 95dB/2.8V/1m.
I can only speculate. As I haven't heard the Faital 3wc-15 and had very little time with the TL2 (thanks to wife and kids)

I would think though that they have more in common than differences.
A big difference would be the TL2 Horn and the
18 Sound compression driver NSD1095N...
Haven't heard conventional tweeters do such fast passages
 
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Evolution revolution...
Where I was at first
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And where it lead:
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And finally after 10 month... here we are one pair is ready for color:

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And base is ready for Isoacoustics Titan feet:

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That looks great!
Which Titan are you going to use? I would assume the Theis. That is what I am planning to use.
My plan is to use the D3 plate adapter.
How are you going to attach your feet?
The holes you have are very large and two of them have three holes around them and the other two have two small holes? The Isoacoustic feet just have that threaded rod coming off the top. I was planning to make a hole in the base to allow room for the threaded rod after it goes through the D3 plate.

How is your plan for the grill covers coming along? Are you still playing with that perforated metal?
Which acoustic fabric are you going to use?

I just bought a bunch of the Mundorf Angelique wire, for wiring the speaker.
 
That looks great!
Which Titan are you going to use? I would assume the Theis. That is what I am planning to use.
My plan is to use the D3 plate adapter.
How are you going to attach your feet?
The holes you have are very large and two of them have three holes around them and the other two have two small holes? The Isoacoustic feet just have that threaded rod coming off the top. I was planning to make a hole in the base to allow room for the threaded rod after it goes through the D3 plate.

How is your plan for the grill covers coming along? Are you still playing with that perforated metal?
Which acoustic fabric are you going to use?

I just bought a bunch of the Mundorf Angelique wire, for wiring the speaker.
hey drjimwillie
Thanks!
The idea for using the Isoacoustics came from my english friend. We will use Titan Rhea. The Holes in the base are so large because the idea was to conceal the Isoacoustics feet. Only 5mm will be visible. I saw the isoacoustics in munchen and thought it always looked funny how they lift the speaker up... not to my taste.

I havent touched the grill subject yet. It will be probably a project own its own accord 🙂 Learning by doing!

Nice to hear that you stick to your TL2 planning as well! if you have any pictures, feel free to post them here. The more the merrier!
 
What do you estimate that the fully built speaker will weigh? That is some thing I have been wondering.
The max weight for the Theis is 320#; 420# for the Rhea.
What are you going to put the threaded rod into and how are you going to adjust the height and set the bolts, if the whole foot is recessed?
 
What do you estimate that the fully built speaker will weigh? That is some thing I have been wondering.
The max weight for the Theis is 320#; 420# for the Rhea.
What are you going to put the threaded rod into and how are you going to adjust the height and set the bolts, if the whole foot is recessed?
I think that the all speaker will weigh about 160kg. The thread is drilled directly to the bottom of the speaker, where I have 6cm thick plywood. Might be that I'll have to put the Isoacoustics first, fix them in place, marking the speaker position, put the speaker base where the marked feet where and the slide gently the speaker from above, resting not testing on the base plate 🤔. Or just tillt the speaker and fiddle with the feet neglecting the bolts.
 
Up in the recess for the Gaia foot, you could do what Troels does and epoxy a bolt to accept the threaded rod.
I thought about it afterwards, of course to set the height of the foot you can always turn it from the bottom. You may want to mark the foot because Isoacoustic says that their logo should face either the front or the back for best performance.
You could always leave a cut out in the side of the base to fit an open end wrench for the set nut. You could leave it open or have a cap for it when you are done with the adjustment.
 
This photo is a clip from the website where it says that they are managing energy on access.
The logo on each foot should be pointing in the same direction.
It should be easy to do because the logo Is printed just above the black rubber foot.
 

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