Here is what Wayne had to say about adding a cap to reduce offset drift (I don't have the direct link, but it's in this thread somewhere). I did this and it worked great, DC offset is now rock solid very close to 0.0mV.
"The cap in series with R14 (on the ground side, but being a series arrangement either way should work) keeps the DC gain at unity making the DC offset more stable. Use a nice (Silmic) electrolytic 47uF - 470uF works fine, 25v or more and use a film bypass if you want. Just lift the ground side of R14 and connect to the + lead of the cap and the - lead goes to ground. A bipolar cap would work here also but a standard electrolytic will work and they can take small amounts of reverse voltage but this shouldn't be a problem. If you get it all setup and adjusted you may not need output cap.
Leave P1 in it adjusts the DC offset. You can maybe remove the output coupling cap if you use the cap in series with R25. Short the cap out with a clip lead adjust P1 for the best you can get then remove the clip lead."
Edit: some of the discussion starts here: Building a Pearl 2
Ah Ha..
All done and rock steady....
Thanks all....
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I am ordering parts for my Pearl 2 build and it looks like the ZVP3310 is backordered for a couple months on mouser. Is there any substitute? It does look like digikey may have some and if that's the best option I can order from there, but was hoping to keep it all to one source.
If anyone is interested ... I am selling a complete working Pearl 2 in the Swap Meet section.
Hi guys, I'm currently buying all the components for the pearl 2. C9 is 5pF. Unfortunately, I cannot find any proper capacitor with this value (in Germany). Is it OK to use either 4,7pF or 5,6pF ceramic? Other possibility is 10pF mica.
If you haven't placed an order yet, consider ordering from Mouser. They've got many options for 5pF capacitors. I'm using silver mica myself. But I guess both 4,7pF of 5,6pF ceramic would do just as well, tolerance of my silver-mica's is +/- 0.5 pF.
Hi guys, I'm currently buying all the components for the pearl 2. C9 is 5pF. Unfortunately, I cannot find any proper capacitor with this value (in Germany). Is it OK to use either 4,7pF or 5,6pF ceramic? Other possibility is 10pF mica.
In a pinch for a low pF capacitor? -- twist two insulated wires together -- did this all the time in VHF ham radio gear when you need a couple "puFFFs".
Thanks for your replies. I found a 5pF mica on ebay. Didn't know how critical this value was...
I am an Noob at this but I'm considering this project. I've sorted through this article PassDiy and the BOM included in it makes zero sense to me. Is there a better one out there? I haven't stumbled on one in this otherwise excellent write-up by 6L6 but I breached my attention span at about page 50. Any direction would be greatly appreciated!
And a 101 question. I assume to use this with a Low Voltage MC cartridge I'll have to put a transformer in front of it. Is that correct?
And a 101 question. I assume to use this with a Low Voltage MC cartridge I'll have to put a transformer in front of it. Is that correct?
It's a great phonostage, not particularly difficult to build, and sounds genuinely fantastic.
Depending on your cartridge you might want a transformer. (Which is my preference for low-output MC in general) But the gain can be increased easily.
Depending on your cartridge you might want a transformer. (Which is my preference for low-output MC in general) But the gain can be increased easily.
I am an Noob at this but I'm considering this project. I've sorted through this article PassDiy and the BOM included in it makes zero sense to me. Is there a better one out there? I haven't stumbled on one in this otherwise excellent write-up by 6L6 but I breached my attention span at about page 50. Any direction would be greatly appreciated!
And a 101 question. I assume to use this with a Low Voltage MC cartridge I'll have to put a transformer in front of it. Is that correct?
I use LOMC and don't need a transformer with the gain maxed (R14 at 300 ohms). Here's a BOM, I'm sure some of the items are obsolete but it's a starting point.
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Is there a better bill of material somewhere you developed when you built is. I am seriously lost in that article on Nelson's site.
I have a Feickert table with a Hanna SL MC on it. I also an original owner of a Thorens TD165 with an AT-440 MM. So all the possibilities are there. If the B1Korg/F5 combination I'm working on right now sounds better than my present system, I'll likely put the Feickert on that and will need to modify the Pearl with more gain if you'll help me with that. But I currently have a Whest two.2 pre right not which isn't exactly a shabby piece of equipment either. I just may want to do a complete DIY system just to say I did.
I have a Feickert table with a Hanna SL MC on it. I also an original owner of a Thorens TD165 with an AT-440 MM. So all the possibilities are there. If the B1Korg/F5 combination I'm working on right now sounds better than my present system, I'll likely put the Feickert on that and will need to modify the Pearl with more gain if you'll help me with that. But I currently have a Whest two.2 pre right not which isn't exactly a shabby piece of equipment either. I just may want to do a complete DIY system just to say I did.
Is there a better bill of material somewhere you developed when you built is. I am seriously lost in that article on Nelson's site.
I have a Feickert table with a Hanna SL MC on it. I also an original owner of a Thorens TD165 with an AT-440 MM. So all the possibilities are there. If the B1Korg/F5 combination I'm working on right now sounds better than my present system, I'll likely put the Feickert on that and will need to modify the Pearl with more gain if you'll help me with that. But I currently have a Whest two.2 pre right not which isn't exactly a shabby piece of equipment either. I just may want to do a complete DIY system just to say I did.
In my experience a B1 and F5 aren't a good combo, I couldn't get up to even normal listening level using a CD player. Preamps with gain work well though, I used an O2 headphone amp, a Marantz HT receiver, and finally a BA-3 front-end which is the best so far.
OK, this is a B1 Korg unit. I don't know if that makes a difference. Currently I have the B1Korg pushing a single Amp Camp Amp into my Tekton Ulfberht speakers and you cannot turn it all the way up and stay in the room. That said, the Ulfs are extremely efficient speakers. And the B1K with the ACA sound exceptionally good. Mr. Pass did post in the B1K thread when I asked about the F5 compatibility "F5, generally designed as 3rd harmonic beast, has good prospects as a mate. " so I hope he's correct because that's what sent me down this path. But your experience definitely has me concerned.
The regular B1 has no gain while the Korg B1 has about 16dB.
So it's right between the B1 and the BA-3 which has 30dB. I'll be interested to hear if it's enough. My speakers are rated at 90dB efficiency and I can fill the room pretty easily.
Mine are rated at over 100dB which I doubted until I hooked the ACA to it. Not doubting it now! The combination will get very loud and also maintain the low end. Didn't really expect that.So it's right between the B1 and the BA-3 which has 30dB. I'll be interested to hear if it's enough. My speakers are rated at 90dB efficiency and I can fill the room pretty easily.
The Hana SL has 0.5mV output. Should be no problem with the Pearl 2, get the gain up to 58-60dB by lowering R14 to 750-500 Ohm. It will not be as loud as a cd player, but probably enough to drive your efficient speakers to (more than) the required volume. Just turn the volume knob a bit further.
Got my Pearl II ready two days ago. I am not very impressed with the sound overall. I find it very laidback, not particulary detailed (compared to my old phono amp). It is easy to listen to, but I still miss some brilliance and "air".
Can someone confirm my observations?
Can someone confirm my observations?
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